My New to me Chevy S-10

[Wdbutcher97]

Agree with others, a yearly treatment of fluid film will help keep it pristine. Also, be aware that the V6 engine had intake manifold gasket issues. If your coolant starts to "disappear" the gasket is the most likely culprit. Replacing isn't rocket science but plan on a full day.

Other known problems: Plugged heater core. People blamed the coolant which was partially to blame but the root cause was contaminates getting into the system, usually through an ill fitting radiator and/or coolant tank caps.

I owned three of the little beasties and loved them.

Yep, that's exactly what I ran into with this truck. I thought I knew
what it was going to cost to make some repairs to this truck when I bought it. I was wrong. I got the gasket replaced and I also have a heater issue. It's warm, but not hot. Hopefully I'll get this fixed this weekend. BTW, Nice Truck!

 

[Breakaway500]

The S10 and S15 chassis was one of GMs best ever. In pickup or SUV form they were rugged and fairly dependable. The early V6 engine oil filter location having to be accessed through the left inner fender well was unique and they finally moved it up to a easy to get to remote location next to the radiator. Strange setup but it worked well.
The 4x4 versions ate ball joints as the angles were so acute they put a lot of stress on them and even the best ones (Moog) were worn out by 60k. I still have a few sets in stock! The engines were all good..the 4.3 was the shining star with the exception of the CPI fuel injection "spider" issues (which was the fuel pressure regulators would leak) and they were under the intake manifold. The raw gas would go right into the oil! Difficult to replace and many a 4.3 was destroyed by diluted motor oil that wasn't addressed in time.
The S10/15chassis were a lot better than the Canyon chassis that replaced them. At least from my repair experiences with both of them.

Rust never sleeps! But it can be subdued. Crown oil coatings work well when applied every year...but I use the Fluid Film as it's easier on rubber components and wiring. Nasty to put on but worth it if you are going to use the vehicle in the salt. Best is not to but not everyone has that option.

 

[pharmer]

....The S10/15chassis were a lot better than the Canyon chassis that replaced them. At least from my repair experiences with both of them.

S-10= "body on frame", Canyon= "unibody." Joe

 

[03hemi]

I told myself if I ever found another clean Chevy S-10 with low miles I would buy it. Here it is. This is the 5th one I've owned, but the first one with the 4.3 V6. I know I'll miss the gas mileage of the 2.2, 4 cylinder, but I do like the power.
Does anyone have any suggestions on how to keep it relatively rust free on the salt covered winter roads other than just soap and water? I've put oil inside the inner wheel wells in the past with little luck. The wheel wells and rocker panels take a real beating here in the winter months. Thanks

Move to Florida.

 

[ACORN]

Another product that is similar to Fluid Film but I’ve been told is better and cheaper is called PFC by Berkibile.
It too is also a lanolin based undercoat.

 

[johngalt]

The solution for my semi-retired '97 Tahoe is to put it away for the winter. It only comes out when the snow (and accompanying salt) are gone.

 

[Tom S.]

S-10= "body on frame", Canyon= "unibody." Joe

I don't know where you are getting your information but my Colorado, Chevy's twin to the Canyon has a full frame and no unibody.

 

[BC38]

Back in England we used to be able to buy rattle cans of what we called "bitumastic" paint. It was thick and black and formed a protective layer over the front valance and the rockers (AKA sills in England). Does an S-10 of that era have wheelarch liners? If so, I would remove them so you can spray bitumastic or whatever right on the painted metal. As for the inside of the rockers, I have no clue. On cars I have owned ingress into those areas of water, dirt, and salt can be hard to stop if the vehicle hasn't been designed right.

^^THIS^^
They used to make spray cans of oil-based undercoating that was very tar-like. Maybe the same thing LVSteve is talking about?
At any rate, start by removing wheel well liners and use a water hose to flush out any and every pocket in the underbody that may be holding deposits of dirt, sand, salt, etc. After it dries out really well, apply the oily undercoating, then put the wheel well liners and such back in place. If you can get the undercoating in spray cans with the tube nozzles, be sure to spray it liberally inside as many enclosed areas & pockets as you can possibly reach. For a lot of the exposed areas you can use regular roofing tar and a brush.
You'll probably want to drive it through a carwash with an undercarriage rinse about once a month or so - or at least after every snow event where they sand/salt the roads during the winter. Every spring do a good undercarriage inspection and undercoat touchup.
That's about the best you're going to be able to do.
I grew up in neighboring Missouri, and saw a LOT of otherwise good vehicles die an early death of "body cancer", and undercarriage coating and washing are the only things that slow it down.

 

[Tubbsy]

That 4.3 is an excellent motor, have seen many with nearing 300k miles and still going strong, used to do work on an older gentleman's that was closer to the 400k mark... excellent trucks, excellent motor.

 

[june dad]

I still have my 98 extended cab. V6my triplet 12 y.o. grands want it.only has 200k on the odometer. no rust but the dash has bad spots.