Need some help

[gordie57]

gordie57,

I'll need a serial # to know the approximate vintage of your 3rd change hammer. Parts can be different even within the same change #.

In what way were the replacement hammers not correct? How are they different from the hammer in the gun?

Often an original hammer would be easier to repair than finding a replacement. Tell us more about it's problem. I've had several antique hammers repaired by those who specialize in doing that and it's not that expensive.

You should start a new thread for your post here:

 

[gordie57]

serial # 505967
When I got it the internals were missing, I started with the bare frame with the complete functioning cylinder, main spring w/ strain screw and grips. So far, I've been able to find side plate with hammer block, cylinder stop w/ plunger spring and screw, trigger with correct hand, trigger rebound slide, cylinder latch.
One trigger was unusable & I was able to insert the 2nd trigger but it would not cycle DA but would release SA. The trigger & sear did not match up. There are several triggers on Numrich, Everygunpart & Usaguns but not having seen the correct trigger I'm pretty much flying blind, buying 2 different ones based on what the site claims the are without any accurate info.
The frame & cylinder are matching number & the crane & frame numbers match. Also, the 6 inch barrel has the correct stamping for change 3 RP. Thank you for pointing me to the correct thread. I hope this info will help.

 

[Hondo44]

That's approximately a 1929 vintage .32 RP. And yes the parts would be the same as a 3rd Model .32 Hand Ejector.

You 'are' flying blind, hard to know for sure whether the trigger or hammer is correct. However since the hammer notch and trigger sear work properly together on SA, the DA problem is more than likely the hammer fly (the DA sear pinned to the front edge of the hammer - careful if you remove it, there's a small coil spring behind it). When a hammer is replaced, it's always important to retain and re-use the hammer fly from the original hammer because it's fitted to the trigger. Of course you don't have that option.

Do you own another S&W hand ejector revolver of any vintage, or know someone who does? If so, you need to observe how the DA sear interacts with the trigger. The DA sear is not difficult to fit to your trigger. And you don't want to modify the trigger. Once you see how the DA sear functions, you can figure out how to fit it. I wish it could be described in writing.

 

[gordie57]

Thank you for the information.
I have 9 S&W revolvers, most pre-lock but none older than mid-eighties. I'm an RSO at an indoor range here and came across this
as part of an estate purchase by our gun shop and thought it would be an interesting, understatement, project. It's not in great condition but I think it's a pretty cool little revolver. I'll try to post some pics of where I'm at & the hammer I have. Thank you again for your patience and help.

 

[gordie57]

I hope this works, technology impaired here !

 

[gordie57]

Another picture

 

[Hondo44]

Well we really can't tell much from the photos unless someone has a similar vintage gun they want to take apart and compare hammers.

However, even if it's the correct hammer we still wouldn't know if the hammer fly functions properly with the trigger. A video of you pulling the trigger slowly with hammer installed could reveal if the problem is that the hammer fly needs fitting or not.

 

[austintexas]

I'll bet the fly is a hair too long to allow it to set in front of the trigger sear and the trigger is over riding it in double action.
SWCA 892

 

[gordie57]

Pics with trigger in place.

 

[gordie57]

The site won't let me post video. Security token missing then invalid post specified. Tried contacting admin. don't know if it was successful.

 

[Pig Hunter]

In that first picture you can see the double action sear is not all the way forward. the second picture you can see it is. The double action sear is too long and won't clear the top of the trigger so it can cam the hammer back.

 

[gordie57]

Thanks for all the great input. I'm returning the trigger, It doesn't seem to be the correct one and I don't want to ruin a perfectly good trigger hoping it's going to fit and perform reliably.
The search continues for a picture or schematic that shows the trigger configuration needed.

 

[Pig Hunter]

Gordie, if you can get another double action sear, or fit the one on the hammer that's the part that doesn't fit not the trigger.

 

[fleabus101]

I will mail you a pre war new DA sear if you decide you need try it..Email me if needed...
[email protected]
Randy..

 

[gordie57]

PH, my bad. I misspoke, I meant the hammer. It came Numrich, 2nd one, I spoke with them when I bought the 1st one & they're
aware of my dilemma not knowing what the correct trigger looks like. Do you know of any other thread that might have a picture or schematic? The last piece of the puzzle is proving to be very illusive. We have a 32-20 in our used gun case, I took the side plate off & it appears to be the same hammer I had. Thank you everyone for your help & patience.

 

[gordie57]

Thanks Randy, I'm hoping for a drop in but that may be my last resort. I really don't want to scrap this little project being so close.
Hope springs eternal, LOL.

 

[fleabus101]

I would send a hammer, but I dont have a k frame pre war with the raised side bushings incorporated on it..in my stash as of yet..

 

[gordie57]

Thanks fleabus101. The I frame schematics, pics, etc. & parts are not plentiful to say the least. I fear this is going to be a long haul.

 

[Pig Hunter]

Gordie, take the double action sear off your hammer put he hammer in and see if the trigger and hammer move to single action full cock. No mainspring just see how they work together. If it works in single action then you know it's the fit of the double action sear. You could use it as single action only or adjust the double action sear to fit properly. From the photos everything looks normal but the DA sear,

 

[gordie57]

Thanks PH, it will fire SA if I pull the trigger slightly & cock back to lock. One reason I think it's not the correct hammer is the two raised bosses by the cylinder bar don't match anything on the side plate, no to say that it's relevant, quite possible I'm over thinking it. If I decide to shorten the sear is that going to expose softer metal subject to rapid wear? It will never be a high round count shooter so it probably doesn't matter.