New S&W 4566TSW Owner - Couple Questions

[MS88]

Hey everybody. Since I got really into guns a few years ago I always had an interested in a steel-frame (or alloy) S&W but never really found any for sale, for whatever reason. I thought they'd be more common but I rarely saw them on Armslist or used in shops.

Traded my 1911 for a better deal, so I was looking for another .45. Came across this like-new S&W 4566TSW for $450 (private party) with 3 mags and 2 Holsters. No box unfortunately, but it's in awesome condition and I'm really happy with what I paid for the quality I got. Only thing I don't like are the Hogue grips on it - they're pretty damn fat and I have somewhat large hands.

I'm most likely going to order the factory grips (unsure if flat or arched) and I'm hoping they'll be much thinner in profile like a 1911 or my CZ P-07. Anyway, under the Hogue grips there is a pin towards the very bottom rear of the frame near the magwell... I'm hoping that is the pin that is used to retain the factory grips? I'm assuming it is but I don't want to get the original grips to find I'm missing the pin.

I'm new to the older S&W semi-autos but I've seen models with plugs where the Safety/Decocker is on my 4566. I really do not like slide controls, especially when they overlap the serrations and making slide manipulation awkward, especially on such a great gun like this 4566TSW. I got to wondering if it would be possible to remove the safety/decocker assembly entirely and put the plugs in the slide. I'm not sure if the assembly has any function in retaining the Firing Pin, but from the disassembly video I've seen and looking at the diagram, it appears not to.

I'm aware that (if even possible) removing the Decocker/Safety may be questionable to some, but this will be exclusively a range gun and I prefer no safeties anyways. I don't want to permanently modify my new, beautiful 4566TSW but I'd really just like to have a smooth slide with no controls and if it's actually possible (and parts available) I may consider it. I almost always end up trading or selling for something better but I already know this 4566 is a keeper.

Thanks for any advice and forgive my ignorance if this seems like a stupid thing to do.

 

[18DAI]

Welcome to the forum! And congrats on the new 4566TSW! One of the finest 45s made. IMO of course.

The factory Xenoy grips are thinner than the Hogue rubber grips. They are also redily available at Midway and Numrichs as well as on the auction boards and fleabay. While they are thinner they are not quite as thin as 1911 grip panels. They are close though.

By "removing the levers and installing the plugs" you will have to render your 4566TSW double action only. Given the lack of interest by the factory in doing anything other than selling plastic guns, I don't know where you would look to have this done. It is not something one should attempt on their own unless you are a factory trained armorer.

The gun that comes with the features you are looking for is the 4586. It was also made with the TSW features as the 4586TSW. It is slick slide and DAO from the factory.

You may find someone who has one to trade with you here. Or you could place your gun for sale and purchase one with the proceeds. In my experience they go for less than the TDA guns, usually, and it will be probably less money than the conversion you are contemplating in the long run. Good luck! Hope this helps! Regards 18DAI

 

[jsbethel]

Anyway, under the Hogue grips there is a pin towards the very bottom rear of the frame near the magwell... I'm hoping that is the pin that is used to retain the factory grips?

Correct

Smith & Wesson Factory Grips Straight S&W 4563TSW 4566TSW 4583TSW

Smith & Wesson Factory Grips Curved S&W 1006 1066 1086 4506 4546 4566

 

[MS88]

Welcome to the forum! And congrats on the new 4566TSW! One of the finest 45s made. IMO of course.

The factory Xenoy grips are thinner than the Hogue rubber grips. They are also redily available at Midway and Numrichs as well as on the auction boards and fleabay. While they are thinner they are not quite as thin as 1911 grip panels. They are close though.

By "removing the levers and installing the plugs" you will have to render your 4566TSW double action only. Given the lack of interest by the factory in doing anything other than selling plastic guns, I don't know where you would look to have this done. It is not something one should attempt on their own unless you are a factory trained armorer.

The gun that comes with the features you are looking for is the 4586. It was also made with the TSW features as the 4586TSW. It is slick slide and DAO from the factory.

You may find someone who has one to trade with you here. Or you could place your gun for sale and purchase one with the proceeds. In my experience they go for less than the TDA guns, usually, and it will be probably less money than the conversion you are contemplating in the long run. Good luck! Hope this helps! Regards 18DAI

Oh, I hate double action. I only shoot single action really. For instance, my CZ P-07 is DA/SA but has a safety I never use, so that's what I'm hoping to achieve with the 4566 by deleting the decocker/safety assembly. If all it does it push the decocker pawl and push down the ejector to disable the trigger, then it should be doable in theory.

 

[GaryS]

It's more complex than you describe. Among other things, the safety, which is connected to the lever, rotates to block the firing pin. You can find diagrams on line that show all of the components of the safety.

18DAI know far more about the workings of the 3rd Gen guns than I do. That said, there are a couple of factory trained 3rd Gen armorers that know almost all there is to know about the guns. I'll just say that the left decocker/safety lever is the visible part of the mechanism. As is the right, but it's detachable, unlike the left.

The 4566TSW is a great gun, you should have no trouble selling it if you decide it's not your cup of tea.

There were two 4500 series models made with frame mounted decockers. Unfortunately, they were made only one year and are hard, if not impossible to find.

Oh, I hate double action. I only shoot single action really. For instance, my CZ P-07 is DA/SA but has a safety I never use, so that's what I'm hoping to achieve with the 4566 by deleting the decocker/safety assembly. If all it does it push the decocker pawl and push down the ejector to disable the trigger, then it should be doable in theory.

 

[twistedracer]

Welcome and that's a nice pistol you picked up.

 

[JohnHL]

I'm new to the older S&W semi-autos but I've seen models with plugs where the Safety/Decocker is on my 4566. I really do not like slide controls, especially when they overlap the serrations and making slide manipulation awkward, especially on such a great gun like this 4566TSW. I got to wondering if it would be possible to remove the safety/decocker assembly entirely and put the plugs in the slide. I'm not sure if the assembly has any function in retaining the Firing Pin, but from the disassembly video I've seen and looking at the diagram, it appears not to.

I'm aware that (if even possible) removing the Decocker/Safety may be questionable to some, but this will be exclusively a range gun and I prefer no safeties anyways. I don't want to permanently modify my new, beautiful 4566TSW but I'd really just like to have a smooth slide with no controls and if it's actually possible (and parts available) I may consider it. I almost always end up trading or selling for something better but I already know this 4566 is a keeper.

Thanks for any advice and forgive my ignorance if this seems like a stupid thing to do.

Welcome to the forum!

Yes, it can be done and quite easily.
Substituting the "firing pin retainer" from the 4586TSW for the "manual safety assembly" from your 4566TSW will provide you with the smooth slide you desire.
Your pistol will still operate in DA/SA mode but will have NO MANUAL SAFETY!!!
Decocking the hammer will require you to press the trigger while lowering the hammer with your thumb.

While us revolver guys have been doing that since the late 1800's, it is kinda frightening to some people.

As it involves removing one of the safety devices, it would be wise to proceed with caution and give this some real thought.

If you choose to do it, I can provide you with details.

Prepare for gasps of horror to follow.

John

 

[GaryS]

Welcome to the forum!

Yes, it can be done and quite easily.
Substituting the "firing pin retainer" from the 4586TSW for the "manual safety assembly" from your 4566TSW will provide you with the smooth slide you desire.
Your pistol will still operate in DA/SA mode but will have NO MANUAL SAFETY!!!
Decocking the hammer will require you to press the trigger while lowering the hammer with your thumb.
While us revolver guys have been doing that since the late 1800's, it is kinda frightening to some people.

As it involves removing one of the safety devices, it would be wise to proceed with caution and give this some real thought.

If you choose to do it, I can provide you with details.

Prepare for gasps of horror to follow.

John

Bring on the fainting couch!

 

[Laddy Smith]

Congrats

and welcome!

Many guys that start with S&W third gens don't start with that model. You jumped right into the deep end of the pool

And watch out for the "gentlemen" on this forum. They are enablers. I stopped by a few years ago for a little advice and they advised me to buy this one and that one and........

Enjoy,
Lad

 

[MS88]

Welcome to the forum!

Yes, it can be done and quite easily.
Substituting the "firing pin retainer" from the 4586TSW for the "manual safety assembly" from your 4566TSW will provide you with the smooth slide you desire.
Your pistol will still operate in DA/SA mode but will have NO MANUAL SAFETY!!!
Decocking the hammer will require you to press the trigger while lowering the hammer with your thumb.

While us revolver guys have been doing that since the late 1800's, it is kinda frightening to some people.

As it involves removing one of the safety devices, it would be wise to proceed with caution and give this some real thought.

If you choose to do it, I can provide you with details.

Prepare for gasps of horror to follow.

John

Thanks for the awesome info, man. I generally like to tinker and like the 4566TSW so much that I'm willing to do the bit of research and hopefully find the couple parts necessary. I watched a detailed slide disassembly video (linked below) and removing the Decocker/safety assembly appears to be relatively easy if I buy some punches.

I'd appreciate if you'd help me with more details and what all is required.

Slide disassembly: [ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CUV8SL_RjFo[/ame]

 

[MS88]

and welcome!

Many guys that start with S&W third gens don't start with that model. You jumped right into the deep end of the pool

And watch out for the "gentlemen" on this forum. They are enablers. I stopped by a few years ago for a little advice and they advised me to buy this one and that one and........

Enjoy,
Lad

Thanks for the welcome, I'm happy to finally own a Smith semi-auto that looks and feels great to me (I REALLY don't like the M&P). Quality on this 4566TSW is pretty great and I like the slide markings. From what I understand, though not sure how much of it is marketing, the TSW models are a bit tighter and mine feels like it. Slide/frame fit is as good as any 1911 I've seen and the slide is smooth as butter. The 3rd gen I linked in the video above had some pretty bad tooling marks but mine is pretty well polished at all the contact points.

Tried to find some literature on the TSW guns but didn't see a whole lot out there. Any of you guys know what kind of steel was used for the Frame and Slide? These were sold before my time but I'm sure they weren't cheap and probably competed with the HK USP and such.

Funny how I ended up with the 4566.. I bought a new 4" 586 about a month ago and sold it because it was slightly bigger than I like for a Revolver. I have a Colt Trooper Mk. III 6" and prefer the balance of that to the L-frame Smiths. I almost ordered a new 66 and should have, I think. Anyways, I traded my 1911 for a 4.2" Ruger SP101 which left me looking for another .45, and used some of the cash left over from selling the 586 to buy the 4566 after I talked him down to $450.

The 586 was nice and a beautiful gun, but I just really like the size and balance of a K frame or my Trooper Mk. III. I'm hoping to find a 19 or 66 with some wear for a reasonable price but the SP101 4.2" is a good range gun for now.

 

[JohnHL]

Thanks for the awesome info, man. I generally like to tinker and like the 4566TSW so much that I'm willing to do the bit of research and hopefully find the couple parts necessary. I watched a detailed slide disassembly video and removing the Decocker/safety assembly appears to be relatively easy if I buy some punches.

I'd appreciate if you'd help me with more details and what all is required.

Since you have given it some thought and decided to proceed I will give you the details:

Replace the "Decocker/safety assembly" with the "Firing pin retainer" from the 4586TSW. Re-use the plunger and spring from your safety in the retainer.

That's it. One part.

Oh yeah. One more thing.
Keep your muzzle pointed in a safe direction when decocking.

Let me know how you like it.

John

 

[BLUEDOT37]

The S&W PN# for the 4586TSW's firing pin retainer is #266920000 ($43.01 old catalog price, new). The catalog also lists a firing pin retainer spacer, #233880000. My 4586 (non-TSW) doesn't have one & I can't say if it's needed on the TSWs or just an optional "fit" part.

S&W may have it. Numrich list it as available: Firing Pin Retainer, Stainless Gun Parts | 347300 | Numrich Gun Parts

Just one other thought on the TDA's decocker/blocker. I personally like having the decocker/blocker down whenever I'm loading/unloading my 3rd Gen, & not in a safe environment, e.g. range. It's just comforting to know you've greatly eliminated the likelihood of an accidental discharge by physically blocking the firing pin from the hammer.

.

 

[JohnHL]

The S&W PN# for the 4586TSW's firing pin retainer is #266920000 ($43.01 old catalog price, new). The catalog also lists a firing pin retainer spacer, #233880000. My 4586 (non-TSW) doesn't have one & I can't say if it's needed on the TSWs or just an optional "fit" part.

The "firing pin retainer spacer" is the substitute for the "sear release lever" and is used only on DAO pistols.

S&W may have it. Numrich list it as available: Firing Pin Retainer, Stainless Gun Parts | 347300 | Numrich Gun Parts

The "firing pin retainer" linked to here is for the standard model DAO pistols and not for the TSW model owned by the OP.

Just one other thought on the TDA's decocker/blocker. I personally like having the decocker/blocker down whenever I'm loading/unloading my 3rd Gen, & not in a safe environment, e.g. range. It's just comforting to know you've greatly eliminated the likelihood of an accidental discharge by physically blocking the firing pin from the hammer.

While the firing pin would still be blocked by the firing pin safety, I could not agree more that the disabling of any safety device must be approached with caution.

John

 

[BLUEDOT37]

The "firing pin retainer spacer" is the substitute for the "sear release lever" and is used only on DAO pistols.
.

The "firing pin retainer" linked to here is for the standard model DAO pistols and not for the TSW model owned by the OP.

.

Oh yeah, I remember about the "spacers" now. Thanks for adding.
.

Oops! Numrich does list a firing pin retainer for a 4583TSW & is half the price of the non-TSW. I got side tracked & posted the wrong one. Thanks for noticing.
Firing Pin Retainer, Stainless, Factory Original, New Gun Parts | 1088040 | Numrich Gun Parts

.

 

[MS88]

Since you have given it some thought and decided to proceed I will give you the details:

Replace the "Decocker/safety assembly" with the "Firing pin retainer" from the 4586TSW. Re-use the plunger and spring from your safety in the retainer.

That's it. One part.

Oh yeah. One more thing.
Keep your muzzle pointed in a safe direction when decocking.

Let me know how you like it.

John

Thanks again. Really impressed with the trigger on this gun. DA is relatively light and silky smooth and SA is probably 4 pounds with an extremely clean break with no overtravel. Reset is maybe the shortest I've ever felt, equal or better than a Walther PPQ which is pretty much the gold standard. If/When I find a 9mm 3rd gen I'll be a happy guy if the trigger is close to this good. Not even sure if the TSW trigger is different in any way but I don't remember reading that it was when glossing over some old Ad.

You guys with 3rd Gens probably get used to it but it just feels uncomfortable as hell racking the slide with the Decocker levers pointing forward. Recoil spring feels pretty strong for a full-mass .45 slide but this gun appears to have been barely fired at all. Maybe they lighten up a bit over time. My first .45, an old Ruger P90, had a similar size/weight slide but the recoil spring was WAY less strong. I suspect the Smith could run a lot of +P ammo without issues.

The S&W PN# for the 4586TSW's firing pin retainer is #266920000 ($43.01 old catalog price, new). The catalog also lists a firing pin retainer spacer, #233880000. My 4586 (non-TSW) doesn't have one & I can't say if it's needed on the TSWs or just an optional "fit" part.

S&W may have it. Numrich list it as available: Firing Pin Retainer, Stainless Gun Parts | 347300 | Numrich Gun Parts

Just one other thought on the TDA's decocker/blocker. I personally like having the decocker/blocker down whenever I'm loading/unloading my 3rd Gen, & not in a safe environment, e.g. range. It's just comforting to know you've greatly eliminated the likelihood of an accidental discharge by physically blocking the firing pin from the hammer.

.

Thanks for the link. Sucks that it's a $50 part but I know it's going to be well worth it once it's installed. I'm cheap so I tried to find a used one on Gunbroker and Ebay but found nothing for cheaper. Smooth slide, Mag Disconnect disabled and factory grips and this gun will be a damn near perfect DA/SA .45 to me. I'm really glad I ended up with this over a Sig P220 that I was considering. Hoping I can find an original box and materials some day to complete the package.

 

[MS88]

.

Oh yeah, I remember about the "spacers" now. Thanks for adding.
.

Oops! Numrich does list a firing pin retainer for a 4583TSW & is half the price of the non-TSW. I got side tracked & posted the wrong one. Thanks for noticing.
Firing Pin Retainer, Stainless, Factory Original, New Gun Parts | 1088040 | Numrich Gun Parts

.

Oh man, thanks for finding that. Can have factory grips AND the retainer for $50 now. Good deal

 

[18DAI]

I'm confused here. So these parts get installed in the slide, eliminating the decocker paddles. Ok, got that. Then the 4566TSW is STILL DA/SA??? How do you decock it after racking the slide to load it? With your thumb and forefinger letting the hammer down?

Or are you guys talking about carrying it around cocked and unlocked? What am I missing here? Thanks! Regards18DAI

 

[TexasG]

I'm confused here. So these parts get installed in the slide, eliminating the decocker paddles. Ok, got that. Then the 4566TSW is STILL DA/SA??? How do you decock it after racking the slide to load it? With your thumb and forefinger letting the hammer down?



Or are you guys talking about carrying it around cocked and unlocked? What am I missing here? Thanks! Regards18DAI

Sounds like it 18DAI. I thought the mods would've already been all over this. Heck of a lot of liability to go around after the ND. I for one hope nobody's hurt, maimed, or killed.

 

[BLUEDOT37]

How do you decock it after racking the slide to load it? With your thumb and forefinger letting the hammer down?

That would seem so & with a bobbed hammer that's even more difficult. I believe if once you start manually lowering the hammer, and you fully release the trigger, the firing pin safety will be engaged & resist the hammers impact when you release it the last little bit? But if you continue to hold the trigger rearward the firing pin safety will not be engaged; not good.

Either way, I agree it reduces the safety of the pistol for sure.

.

 

[Sevens]

Agree 100% that it reduces the "safety" of the pistol and admittedly it takes it outside of it's design. Many would argue that you should NEVER employ it in any manner of defense for the simple liability of having to explain (gasp!) that you willfully altered a safety feature.

-HOWEVER!-

Beyond that...
Are ya guys kidding with us here?
You cannot seriously believe this is dangerous... really?

You'd now have to decock the pistol in the same exact way you'd decock a 1911. Or any revolver or ANY semiauto ever built that has an exposed hammer and no decock lever of some sort.

A 3rd Gen with SA/DA operation and no decocker is not at all an "unsafe" handgun unless/until it is in the hands of a fool.

Anybody care to have an adult discussion on how some ADDED safety features incidentally promote POOR gun handling?

 

[18DAI]

A 1911 is designed to be carried cocked and locked. A 4566 is not a 1911. Thats one of the reasons I love the 4566.

I would never suggest to anyone that it is wise, or safe practice, to lower the hammer on a l911, with a loaded chamber, using your thumb and forefinger. IMO that is not safe gun handling and begging for a ND. IF you do that, you are not operating the gun as it was designed.

The 4566 was designed to use a decocker to safely lower the hammer on a loaded chamber. A 4566 is not a revolver. And I cannot think of a single DA/SA designed pistol that does not have a decocker incorporated to safely lower the hammer on a loaded chamber.

So put me on the list of those who SERIOUSLY thinks this is not only a bad idea, but right up near the top of the list of bad ideas. Good luck to those who operate handguns outside of their designed parameters or try to turn perfectly designed DA/SA pistols into 1911's. Regards 18DAI

 

[Sevens]

There is NO WAY to lower the hammer on a loaded and cocked 1911 without doing exactly that. You must defeat the thumb safety and the grip safety AND press the trigger.

On a double action S&W revolver -- once it is cocked, you don't even have the option of unloading it as you do with a 4566 or 1911. You must press the trigger and carefully lower the hammer.

 

[TTSH]

So put me on the list of those who SERIOUSLY thinks this is not only a bad idea, but right up near the top of the list of bad ideas. Good luck to those who operate handguns outside of their designed parameters or try to turn perfectly designed DA/SA pistols into 1911's.

There is NO WAY to lower the hammer on a loaded and cocked 1911 without doing exactly that. You must defeat the thumb safety and the grip safety AND press the trigger.

I've stayed quiet so far on the OP's rather dubious proposed mod to his 4566TSW... but I have to go along with 18DAI on this one point re: 1911's. I've never carried either of my 1911's, but I sure as heck wouldn't put them in (and carry them) in Condition 2. It seems like an ND just waiting to happen at some point.

Is it possible to do this safely? Of course it is. Is it a really good idea long-term? I don't think so.

 

[TexasG]

Agree 100% that it reduces the "safety" of the pistol and admittedly it takes it outside of it's design. Many would argue that you should NEVER employ it in any manner of defense for the simple liability of having to explain (gasp!) that you willfully altered a safety feature.



-HOWEVER!-



Beyond that...

Are ya guys kidding with us here?

You cannot seriously believe this is dangerous... really?



You'd now have to decock the pistol in the same exact way you'd decock a 1911. Or any revolver or ANY semiauto ever built that has an exposed hammer and no decock lever of some sort.



A 3rd Gen with SA/DA operation and no decocker is not at all an "unsafe" handgun unless/until it is in the hands of a fool.



Anybody care to have an adult discussion on how some ADDED safety features incidentally promote POOR gun handling?

Yeah, you talk like such an expert in the hobby. Instead of studying the manual of arms and the mechanics you ask for others input on altering the safety mechanisms of an excellently engineered and inherently safe pistol. As if somehow your interest in changing these features is justified because you hate the TDA design.

Then when confronted, you decide to that you want to have an adult discussion about safety features?

You epitomize all that most in our community and hobby disdain, and give the gun haters ever more fodder.

 

[rasmith3442]

Here's an idea

As usual, I agree with my friend 18DAI.

I am a mechanical engineer who does forensic engineering for a living. There are also several attorneys on the Forum.
If the OP would modify the gun, have an ND, and hurt or kill someone, the local prosecutor would eat him alive.

Currently there is a non TSW 4586 at Cherry's fine guns. Tag number is 34050SAL. They say it is NIB and it still has the round white inspection sticker on it.

http://cherrys.com/stokpics/34050sal.jpg

Why not become like the rest of us addicts and just buy more S&W's. Liability problem goes away, and you have another gun to appreciate in both the aesthetic and financial sense of the word.

Just my $0.02

S/F,

RAS (aka Walter)

 

[JohnHL]

Wow!
This thread sure got the old hens in the barnyard a cacklin'!

As I said in post #7: "Prepare for gasps of horror to follow."

And as Gary S said in post #8: Bring on the fainting couch!"

Nowhere in this thread has the OP or myself even suggested the carry of a pistol "cocked and unlocked".

In post #1 the OP states "this will be EXCLUSIVELY a RANGE GUN" (emphasis added).
It's the very first post, for gosh sakes!
You had ONE JOB!
To read AND comprehend the entire thread before commenting, and you failed.
Reading IS fundamental, girls.
The OP displayed an understanding of the mechanisms of this pistol and safe gun handling. That is why I felt confident in the sharing of knowledge with someone I judged to be a peer.
My intelligent and articulate friend, Sevens gets it and explained it perfectly.
And then Texas G mischaracterizes his post AND accuses him of authoring this thread. (Please read AND think before you type, Glen.)
It was MS88 who was the OP and a very reasonable and well worded question it was.
It was certainly NOT very welcoming to a new member for some of you to jump to conclusions and wrongly flame him without understanding his post.

I joined this forum because of what seemed to be an unusually large number of members who understood and appreciated the intricacies of these mechanisms and could discuss them like adults.
I realize that many of you are bewildered by all things mechanical and and you prefer the threads that say: "Here is my new gun. Isn't it pretty?" and then several people respond and say "I have one, too. Isn't mine pretty?"
And if that's your depth, I say "More power to ya!"
But if that is all I was interested in, I would have joined the Mattel Barbie Doll forum and not the Smith & Wesson Forum.

I think some of you owe the OP an apology.

Rant over.

John

 

[Sevens]

Yeah, you talk like such an expert in the hobby.

You epitomize all that most in our community and hobby disdain, and give the gun haters ever more fodder.

Good afternoon. Your insults are wildly off the mark and your comprehension approaches nil.

I have never, not even once, modified a S&W or -any- firearm with regards to it's designed features -- safety or otherwise.

You quoted my entire post and you didn't understand even a bit of it. You added insults and precious little else to the discussion.

 

[TexasG]

I stand by my written statements in this thread.

I have full comprehension of a all that was written.

You've been on this blog long enough to know that TDA should be left TDA and I expect that you wouldn't advocate making a 3rd Gen to an unsafe ***.

 

[oldandslow]

Greetings,

I have a number of 3rd gen. SW's including the 4566tsw. I also have a number of other brands including several CZ's which are DA/SA without a decocker and with a manual safety (like the 1911). These can be carried cocked and locked or hammer down on a loaded round.

The owner's manuals supplied with the non-decocker pistols (the 75B and 75B compacts and 2011 Rami) and also the on-line manuals both show how to safely decock the pistols from the SA mode to the DA/SA mode. Thus there is at least one major manufacturer who puts the manual decocking process in writing. I have decocked thousands of times with no problems.

This being said I still consider the standard decocker like on the SW 3rd gens (and Sigs and Beretta, etc.) safer than manual decocking and much prefer this setup.

best wishes- oldandslow