New to me 29-2 - How should I deal with wear?

[AEM]

I fell for a beautiful 4" Model 29-2 and bought it on sight. It is practically NIB. I am thrilled to get it but I am aware that it won't be as durable as later Model 29s that have the endurance upgrades. I remember these revolvers spitting lead and jacket fragments back in the 70s and saw the cylinder rotate backward on one gun. I plan to shoot mostly mid-range and below-maximum cast bullet loads in this revolver, so hopefully will never have to worry about significant wear, but I would appreciate advice on the following:

Should I be pro-active and have as many as possible of the endurance package features installed now, such as springs, bolt stop, etc.? I understand that it may not be feasible to retrofit some of the endurance upgrades such as lengthened cylinder stop & notches, bolt block, radiused studs and cylinder yoke mod with heat treatment.

If I should retrofit as many of the endurance features as possible, should I send it to the factory or to a gunsmith? Any recommendations for a good gunsmith for the older Smiths?

I plan on having the forcing cone opened to 11 degrees as well. Any thoughts about having it done by the factory vs. a gunsmith?

Thank you

 

[stansdds]

Using less than full power ammo for the majority of your shooting should be adequate for minimizing wear. I'd certainly shoot it before making any modifications to the forcing cone, it may shoot very accurately as-is.

 

[03hemi]

Considering there ain't no picture, I say wear the hell out of it, who cares?
My newly acquired 27-2 is in 100% condition and un-fired so I only handle it.

 

[AEM]

Here are a couple of photos off the auction site. I fell hard for this one.

 

[AEM]

Using less than full power ammo for the majority of your shooting should be adequate for minimizing wear. I'd certainly shoot it before making any modifications to the forcing cone, it may shoot very accurately as-is.

I am concerned about spitting lead and jacket material more than accuracy. But you are right- I will shoot it before making any mods.

 

[Muley Gil]

Shoot it first and limit the use of heavy loads. The revolver and your hands will both appreciate it!

 

[Model29-26.5]

I fell for a beautiful 4" Model 29-2 and bought it on sight. It is practically NIB. I am thrilled to get it but I am aware that it won't be as durable as later Model 29s that have the endurance upgrades. I remember these revolvers spitting lead and jacket fragments back in the 70s and saw the cylinder rotate backward on one gun. I plan to shoot mostly mid-range and below-maximum cast bullet loads in this revolver, so hopefully will never have to worry about significant wear, but I would appreciate advice on the following:

Should I be pro-active and have as many as possible of the endurance package features installed now, such as springs, bolt stop, etc.? I understand that it may not be feasible to retrofit some of the endurance upgrades such as lengthened cylinder stop & notches, bolt block, radiused studs and cylinder yoke mod with heat treatment.

If I should retrofit as many of the endurance features as possible, should I send it to the factory or to a gunsmith? Any recommendations for a good gunsmith for the older Smiths?

I plan on having the forcing cone opened to 11 degrees as well. Any thoughts about having it done by the factory vs. a gunsmith?

Thank you

Shoot specials.

 

[Model29-26.5]

Don't do anything to it.
It's a beauty.
Shoot specials and take care of it as is.
Maybe Shoot occasional magnums but factory loads are not much fun after a cylinder or two.

 

[AEM]

Shoot specials.

Thanks, but I have .44 Specials. As I mentioned, I bought this one to shoot .44 Magnum loads, albeit not a lot of heavy loads. Wear in these guns is enough of a problem that S&W spent years on efforts to make them more durable. I am trying to decide whether to make some of those mods and, if so, now or wait until endshake becomes excessive, the cylinder starts rotating backward onto an empty chamber, shrapnel starts flying out of the barrel-cylinder gap, etc.?

 

[Hawg Rider]

I think that you're falling for some "fake news" about S&W .44 Magnums and Model 29s. Although there may be some truth to the fact that the occasional .44 Magnum revolver displayed the issues that you're concerned about, those were probably loaded with extremely powerful rounds and had hundreds or thousands of rounds shot through them. I have a few S&W .44 Magnums and Model 29s and have never had an issue with any of them (except for a loose front sight on a 4" version which was easily fixed). If you plan to shoot a bunch of .44 Magnum, perhaps you would be more comfortable with a newer Model 629 or similar. It would be a shame to completely rework your vintage and valuable Model 29-2, but it is your revolver and of course you can do with it what you wish. Good luck!

 

[JwesleyN]

I think that you're falling for some "fake news" about S&W .44 Magnums and Model 29s. Although there may be some truth to the fact that the occasional .44 Magnum revolver displayed the issues that you're concerned about, those were probably loaded with extremely powerful rounds and had hundreds or thousands of rounds shot through them. I have a few S&W .44 Magnums and Model 29s and have never had an issue with any of them (except for a loose front sight on a 4" version which was easily fixed). If you plan to shoot a bunch of .44 Magnum, perhaps you would be more comfortable with a newer Model 629 or similar. It would be a shame to completely rework your vintage and valuable Model 29-2, but it is your revolver and of course you can do with it what you wish. Good luck!

I agree. If you hunt with a .44 mag use magnum loads. If you shoot at paper or steel targets use loaded down magnum cases or .44 spec. The idea of shooting 100s or 1000s of magnum loads through a handgun at least for me is not what I would call fun. I've been a reloader since the 70s. The last time I saw factory .44 mag cartridges for sale I believe they were a little over a buck a round.

 

[Model29-26.5]

Those stocks you have are as nice as I've seen. Metal and bluing looks terrific in those pics.
You have a classic collectors item.
For me, that would be an occasional outing with it but I wouldn't shoot it a lot.
Did it come with papers and presentation case?
They don't make them like that anymore.
From what I have seen and understand as a relative newbie, they make them stronger, and cheaper today but not as cool or pretty.
The old ones were handmade works of art by craftsmen.
Today's classic models are still great guns but like high quality prints of the original paintings.

 

[moosedog]

Don't fix anything that is not a problem. Shoot it and enjoy it.
Like others have said, you will soon limit the number of heavy loads that you put thru it.

 

[zogger]

I think that you're falling for some "fake news" about S&W .44 Magnums and Model 29s. Although there may be some truth to the fact that the occasional .44 Magnum revolver displayed the issues that you're concerned about, those were probably loaded with extremely powerful rounds and had hundreds or thousands of rounds shot through them. I have a few S&W .44 Magnums and Model 29s and have never had an issue with any of them (except for a loose front sight on a 4" version which was easily fixed). If you plan to shoot a bunch of .44 Magnum, perhaps you would be more comfortable with a newer Model 629 or similar. It would be a shame to completely rework your vintage and valuable Model 29-2, but it is your revolver and of course you can do with it what you wish. Good luck!

I agree with Hawg Rider. If you are going to shoot alot of 44 Mag, get a 629. If you plan to shoot mainly 44 Specials and a few 44 Mag, leave the gun as is and shoot it. I shoot mainly 44 Spl out of my 29-2 4" because after a few 44 Mag my hands are toast!

 

[AEM]

All good advice, thanks all.

I have a couple of stouter .44 magnums that I can shoot heavy loads out of. As I mentioned, I intend to shoot less than full house loads out of this one. And I am learning, late in life, not to fix something until it's broken. I am a little concerned about the forcing cone and will probably have that addressed early. I knew of someone losing an eye from bullet splatter from a Model 29.

I found this older thread that answered almost all my questions. The takeaway is that it is excessive endshake that allows the cylinder stop to jump out of the notch and rotate backward, so I will monitor the end shake. If the revolvers do start to get loose, some shims on the crane and a stronger cylinder stop spring seems to fix the problem.

https://smith-wessonforum.com/threads/model-29-unlocking.714948/

 

[Nightowl]

I bought my first Model 29 in 1968 and have shot thousands of rounds of 235 grain cast 429421 semi wadcutter bullets over 20 grains of 2400 powder. Never any bullet splatter! It is as good today as it was when new. The primary cause of the upgrades was the 300 grain bullets being fired with maximum or maybe more loads in metallic silhouette competition. I would do nothing with the gun until I made sure that the carry up (timing) endshake and barrel/cylinder alighment checked out. I doubt the forcing cone needs cutting. You can buy a gage from Brownells to check it a lot cheaper than taking it to a gunsmith. Shoot it as much as you want from there! They are really stronger than some folks seem to think!