Newbie Interested In Beginner Reloading

I just ordered the cast iron Lee handpress..... $45 to my door.
Lee dippers and a magnifier, once you follow the above advice if the load is in between dippers for that powder, will work.
Case trimming, essential in 38/357, might require a reliable digital caliper.
 
I typed all of that to say....yeah, I will have to be systematic and be safe. Just fyi, I do all of the general repairs on our small Ford Ranger. You know oil changes, transmission fluid and filter, brakes, tire rotations, etc. I am just adjusted to some things and at the same time horrible at walking in the woods or uneven ground. LOL. I use a white cane in public but not in the house. Does any of that help?

If you can bake a cake, you can make ammo.

Imissedagain said:
Case trimming, essential in 38/357, might require a reliable digital caliper

What? God, no. Couldn't be less relevant until you start splitting hairs on crimp.

Okay, yeah, sure, I sort my brass by headstamp for .38 Spl, but that's purely for aesthetics (I like my crimps really pretty).

cfplinker said:
Thus a double charge would exceed the proof test and would probably cause a rapid disassembly of the pistol. Not good.

It actually doesn't. Guns is pretty tough. If you double-charge a case and seat a few thou deeper than is wise, however, yeah, boom-boom time.

Oh, and a .3cc dipper will drop 2.8 grains of Bullseye all day, which is fine and reasonable to either stay with, or to use as a starting point.

As for .380, it's tough as hell to find a powder bulky-enough for that. I got a pound of AA#2, and the VMD was way fluffier than the Lee book says it should be, and a .3cc Auto-Disk dropped exactly the 2.6gr charge I wanted.
 
I have never trimmed a straight-walled pistol case in my life. In fact, other than some exotics (.30 Herrett) I have never trimmed any pistol case at all.
 
I have never trimmed a straight-walled pistol case in my life. In fact, other than some exotics (.30 Herrett) I have never trimmed any pistol case at all.

I was taught to load by two Chief Master Sergeants and a Brigadier. ;)
Only 45ACP, 380ACP and rarely loaded 9mm are not trimmed unless out of spec.
I keep lotsa cases ready for powder, bullet seating and crimp, if necessary, on hand as well as completed ammo.
Shiny cases ....only when new.
 
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I had this set-up when I was a geo-bachelor for a while. I washed my brass in a bucket. I had my press bolted to a 2x4 that I clamped to the table. For basic, straight-wall stuff, it was completely adequate.
 

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I had this set-up when I was a geo-bachelor for a while. I washed my brass in a bucket. I had my press bolted to a 2x4 that I clamped to the table. For basic, straight-wall stuff, it was completely adequate.

Thanks for sharing. I like simple and basic. The “less is more” aproach as well. For example, when I work on our Ford Ranger or my parents Dodge Ram (both farm and everyday trucks), I prefer to do the basics by hand. Rotate tires by hand with a breaker bar rather than a $200 battery powered impact. It gives me tactile feel and sound. It allows me the use of other senses to pick up where eyes might not. That is why I like the idea of a simple press like a Lee handloader or single stage press. Sure it takes longer, but it is also more simple. Thanks everyone for the continued help and support.
 
You sound like me.....

CHEAP!

For years my setup was completely rudimentary, I've been reloading for 40 years and didn't spring for a tumbler until a couple of years ago. If I didn't really keep my operation cheap I wouldn't be able to shoot nearly as much as I'd like or need to. I had to retire early and that was the end of my spendthrift hobbies.

I do just fine with a $35 Frankford Arsenal digital scale. I used a Lee balance scale for years.

Midway USA has a page that tells what you will need.

I still use a single stage RCBS Rockchucker press

Remember you need dies and a shell holders.

At least one Reloading manual with a good 'how to' section. There's a lot on the internet now but you need everything in one place because there are a LOT of safety concerns. There are different safety aspects with different types of cartridges, rimmed, rimless, revolver, semi that you need to be aware of.

Safety is paramount.
 
The powder scale and measure were hand me downs. I think I paid $35 for the little RCBS Junior press. I scavenged the 2X4 and bucket.

At one point I checked out a copy of the "ABCs of Reloading" from the local library. It was a vintage copy that recommended you soak primers in oil and dispose of them in a body of water if you wanted to get rid of them.
 
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Another vote for the Lyman 310 nutcracker. I’m in no hurry so it suits me just fine. All you need is some Lee powder dippers and you’re all set.
 

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Quick update, I am enjoying reading the Lee reloading second edition very much. I am learning stuff....and it is fun. Now I understand what the different dies do and how they work. Just finished a section on the Lee powder dippers. Fun stuff.
 
If you can bake a cake, you can make ammo.



What? God, no. Couldn't be less relevant until you start splitting hairs on crimp.

Okay, yeah, sure, I sort my brass by headstamp for .38 Spl, but that's purely for aesthetics (I like my crimps really pretty).



It actually doesn't. Guns is pretty tough. If you double-charge a case and seat a few thou deeper than is wise, however, yeah, boom-boom time.

Oh, and a .3cc dipper will drop 2.8 grains of Bullseye all day, which is fine and reasonable to either stay with, or to use as a starting point.

As for .380, it's tough as hell to find a powder bulky-enough for that. I got a pound of AA#2, and the VMD was way fluffier than the Lee book says it should be, and a .3cc Auto-Disk dropped exactly the 2.6gr charge I wanted.

Seen more than one plastic frame pistol KB with a double charge of fast powder. A steel frame gun may just blow grips off but seen cracked frames there too. A doubke charge of BE is probably responsible for blown 38 tjan anything else. Though TG is rapidly taking apart guns a ross yhe country from double charges.
 
I made a portable reloading stand from a Harbor Freight grinder stand and a piece of 2x12x48" board. Since I installed a Lee Bench Plate Kit, I can mount any of my 7 presses and load inside or outside on my porch/deck.

As much as I enjoy using my Lee Classic Loaders, I have several; I would suggest getting a single stage press kit plus dies for the calibers you want to load. The Lee Challenger kit comes with everything you need except dies and can be found on sale or used on Ebay. I think you would be much happier starting this way, but that's just my opinion.
 
I often see a lot of indecision over what to buy, based on the cost of the press. If you become a serious reloader, the cost of the press is insignificant compared to the cost of the components, and in the money saved over buying factory ammo.

I didn't keep close track on what I spent on components, but it approximately went like this:

Started out on a LEE Anniversary kit, with the O type Challenger single stage press. The entire kit was about $100.

I quickly started spending more money, after learning that a lot of pieces in the kit made the job very tedious and frustrating:

The balance beam scale and Perfect (NOT!) powder measure were replaced with a Chargemaster 1500 (about $400 at the time).

The press was replaced with a Hornady LNL AP (about $400). But it had a free 1000 bullet offer, worth about $200. So net price of the press was about $200.

The LEE dies work in both presses, but I eventually replaced them with Hornady dies, for about another $120 or so. Shell plates, about another $100. Misc parts (bushings, powder dies, springs, etc). Wild guess, say another $200.

It adds up, and sounds expensive. I estimate I made it all up compared to buying factory ammo in less than 2 years.

I don't reload rifle, but the savings are much significant there. Factory rifle ammo runs $1 to $2 per round for the good stuff.
 
Lee's reloading manual is about the worst there is, but it is very good to have if you are using Lee products, especially their powder handling gear. You should still learn pretty much everything you'd need for the type of loading you plan on.

I don't remember which dippers came with which die sets as they are pretty well all in the same box now. I had used them without a scale for a long time...after the first divorce, and when I did get another scale I checked them for accuracy. If you use them properly, (pull the dipper through the powder once, scrape level with a card and pour, no shaking or tapping), you can get pretty consistent charges, although slightly less than they claim. And you can dip more than once as long as you keep track of what you are doing and can do simple math, such as; .3cc+.3cc=.6cc, .3cc+.5cc=.8cc and etc.
 
I am enjoying my reading and learning thus far. Sure the Lee book is a bit of an advertising plug for the company, but heck Mr. Lee wrote the book. LOL I like the idea of the dippers and how the powder is measured by volume and not weight.
 
My first reloading experience was with a Lee Loader and I became so frustrated that I threw it away and continued to buy factory ammo... later, I met an experience reloader at a gun club and was invited to see his shop. Once I saw it and watched him load some rifle rounds for me, I finally “got it”. I now load for handgun and rifle and never buy factory for other then CCW. Been loading now over 40 years... Buy good equipment up front because you will end up buying it sooner or later... READ a good loading manual several times (Lyman) and proceed.
 
I don't reload rifle, but the savings are much significant there. Factory rifle ammo runs $1 to $2 per round for the good stuff.

In the early 80's I bought a TC Contender.. 7MM TCU..

If I wanted to shoot it I had to load my own(same today)..

Adding other calibers was easy and an instant savings already having a press.
 
You've got lots of opinions here more educated than mine, but I went thru the process just a couple years back, so...

Lee loader is cool, it does work, but I hated putting in primers with it and you will need ear protection. Once I ponied up for a press I immediately wished I'd started there instead.

I bought a Lee classic single stage O press and 38 special carbide dies. It's quiet, easy to do primers, and way way quicker than the Lee Loader. Scoops for powder, 1 loading block, and a cheap digital scale to check my scooping. I might clean cases every few uses in a wash like you mention.

The press takes 3 bolts, if there's an old table you don't mind a few holes in you're there... or I've seen people make small platforms that attached to studs in a garage or basement.

Good luck and have fun!
 
The Whack a Mole works , and is your absolute minimal initial investment . 25-ish rounds per hour is the limiting factor . If absolute budget is your controling factor , then get one, and declare Victory . Beyond that, it's a slippery slope .

Next step up - Either new purchase Lee hand press , or whatever single stage press for cheap from yard sale, flea market, gun show, etc . Lee 3 die carbide pistol die set, which includes a dipper . Since you're starting from scratch , get a powder that is appropriate for your dipper . ( For 158gr lead .38spl , use .3 with WW 231 , .5 with Unique .) Get a Lee hand priming tool . The tactile control is far better than press mounted priming . At this point , jump in and start loading .

After a cpl sessions of carefully setting cases on flat table surface, and being very careful to not tip any over , you will eagerly $5ea or so for a cpl loading trays .

After hand cleaning a cpl thousand cases , you will eagerly purchase a case tumblet ( vibrator) , frequently on sale from one of the usual suspects online .
 
I am enjoying my reading and learning thus far. Sure the Lee book is a bit of an advertising plug for the company, but heck Mr. Lee wrote the book. LOL I like the idea of the dippers and how the powder is measured by volume and not weight.

All volume measures are set by weight. The Elle book is the only data source using cc, everyone else uses grains. So the Lee book data is only valid wipth the powders in it, kinda limiting.
As noted, I dont get the idea of apsaving a few bucks loading with hand tools. Buy quality gear that minimizes your time imo. This doesnt mean everyone needs a profressive, but a ss press & powder measure make the work more enjoyable, probably better too. If uou only shoot 1000rds a year, better off buying factory ammo than reloading, unless you just want a hobby.
 
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