Newest project guitar arrived. OUCH!

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It was advertised as having a small crack near the headstock on a Les Paul clone. When I opened the box I found this. I am guessing they left it under full string tension when they shipped it. Have a email in to the returns department to see what the options are. Darn shame too, as it is a absolutely beautiful guitar. The pic I took, notwithstanding the damage, does not do justice to how good it looked.
 

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I'd hold the seller/shipper's feet to the fire.
They should've removed the strings completely, then used some corrogated cardboard forms and duct tape to secure the headstock.

Nonetheless, it is repairable. You want to glue that without adding extra junk, like splines, pins, screws, etc.
After removing all the hardware, you could devise a workboard with a precisely angled wedge to support the headstock.

Or, another approach is to use a heavy "non-stretch" tape in place of a workboard jig. Binding tape, as used in guitar construction, resists tearing and stretching.
The idea is to join the two parts in exact position, then lay a strip of tape about 6-8" long that runs from the first few frets of the fingerboard, over the area for the nut, and a few more inches over the face of the peghead. Make sure it is closely pressed to all surfaces and right into any corners. You should now have a "hinge" that can open up just wide enough to squeeze in some glue, then close back up with perfect fitting. The tape also prevents the parts from slipping once clamped.
Do dry runs w/o glue to be sure that the two parts align perfectly. The key to a successful glue joint with this type of damage is precise fitting of the parts.
High pressure clamping is not needed, just some firm pressure for glue squeeze out and to hold while it sets.
I would use a single wooden cam clamp, and just enough pressure to get glue squeeze-out.

Both the binding tape and cam clamp are available from Stewart-MacDonald.

I would use hot hide glue, but most guys would likely choose Titebond.
Hot hide glue gives a very limited assembly time (like, 30-60 seconds). But, when parts fit perfectly, you will get a nearly invisible seam.

Glu-Boost makes nice products for finish repair work.

I have done many, many such repairs. It's not difficult, but does require planning and patience. Good luck with this one!
 
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I had the same thing happen to me with a full stock .62 caliber contemporary Flintlock Hawken rifle.
Broke right at the Rist, the week point of the stock. The sender should have removed the barrel
from the stock prior to shipping to lessen the chance of that happening, and I should have ask him to
do so but assumed he knew. I got a full refund from the shipper (UPS) but really wished I had the rifle.
 
It was advertised as having a small crack near the headstock on a Les Paul clone. When I opened the box I found this. I am guessing they left it under full string tension when they shipped it. Have a email in to the returns department to see what the options are. Darn shame too, as it is a absolutely beautiful guitar. The pic I took, notwithstanding the damage, does not do justice to how good it looked.
Well that suks! Was the shipping box damaged? From an individual or some company??
 
Well that suks! Was the shipping box damaged? From an individual or some company??
It was double boxed and well packed with no visible damage on either of the boxes. I know it was under tension because the high E string whipped into the edge and carved into the binding enough that it will not come free under normal hand pressure. I use the place I bought it from for a fair bit of stuff. If I can get a good bit of store credit I will keep it and attempt a fix later on down the line when I have the garage workshop set up. It does seem to be a fairly clean break with the exception of the one extra piece that came out. I doubt I will hear anything until Monday.
 
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