No. 2 cleanup

[rta72]

About the only polymer that is resistant to acetone is polyropylene. They do make disposable PP gloves, but have not tried them.

Seems butyl gloves are also an option. Quick look tells that you could get a pair of resistant gloves with reasonable price, like under $20.

What about xylene as a cleaner/solvent, soaking metal parts in it instead of acetone to get all the hundreds of years of grime off? Usually next to acetone in paint shelves. Supposed to be good on glue/oil/grease etc., but more dangerous than acetone? So not worth the risk as acetone does ok job too?

 

[glowe]

Seems butyl gloves are also an option. Quick look tells that you could get a pair of resistant gloves with reasonable price, like under $20.

What about xylene as a cleaner/solvent, soaking metal parts in it instead of acetone to get all the hundreds of years of grime off?

Butyl rubber gloves do work, but have a time limit for use with acetone, usually 10 minutes breakthrough limit, so if you plan on using them several times, you will run the risk of breakthrough. Polypropylene is impermeable to acetone and will not degrade with repeated use. Still, I buy a box and throw them away after each use. To be honest, in the last 50 years or so I have used acetone to remove adhesives, paints, etc. off my hands, and have survived so far.

Dimethylbenzene (xylene) is a similar solvent, but will have different properties, requiring perhaps different glove materials. One of the advantages to acetone is that it will attack more materials, adhesives, oils, etc. and will leave literally no residue. The product evaporates without a trace left on cleaned surfaces.

The list of heavy duty chemical solvents are long, with acetone and xylene being the most available. Products like perchloroethylene, methylethylketone (MEK), dichloromethane, methylene chloride, trichloroethylene, etc. are not as available to the general public today

 

[rta72]

Butyl rubber gloves do work, but have a time limit for use with acetone, usually 10 minutes breakthrough limit, so if you plan on using them several times, you will run the risk of breakthrough. Polypropylene is impermeable to acetone and will not degrade with repeated use. Still, I buy a box and throw them away after each use. To be honest, in the last 50 years or so I have used acetone to remove adhesives, paints, etc. off my hands, and have survived so far.



Dimethylbenzene (xylene) is a similar solvent, but will have different properties, requiring perhaps different glove materials. One of the advantages to acetone is that it will attack more materials, adhesives, oils, etc. and will leave literally no residue. The product evaporates without a trace left on cleaned surfaces.



The list of heavy duty chemical solvents are long, with acetone and xylene being the most available. Products like perchloroethylene, methylethylketone (MEK), dichloromethane, methylene chloride, trichloroethylene, etc. are not as available to the general public today

Thanks for thorough answer. I had no luck finding PP gloves from google, but did find butyl ones. Found also some that claim to withstand acetone, but are made from nitrile and that is false advertising in my opinion. I never had any problems with different chemicals when working with bikes when I was younger, but haven't worked with them in a long while and when i did a quick job with plastic metal, dang that made me feel sick. That got me thinking that better safe than sorry and better get proper eye, breathing and hand protection.

Acetone and xylene are both perfectly safe for soaking metal parts? Won't hurt finish or harm the parts in any way?

 

[glowe]

. . . Acetone and xylene are both perfectly safe for soaking metal parts? Won't hurt finish or harm the parts in any way?

It has been several years since I purchased a box of disposable PP gloves and they were from a chemical supply laboratory. Don't know if they are still available or not. I do know that butyl gloves are available. Yes, both acetone and xylene are safe for blued metal surfaces, but not finished wood stocks. Even strong fumes might ruin a varnished set of stocks. There are several people that make up gun cleaning solutions with acetone and automatic transmission fluid, plus maybe other ingredients.

 

[MHF]

No 2

I finally got her back together. turned out fair

 

[glowe]

Nice looking Model 2. Picture is pretty small, so details cannot be seen.

 

[BMur]

Original Nickel

Aren't they rare in original nickel finish? Looks very well aged.

 

[mmaher94087]

This is a #2 and appears to be cleaned with a wire brush.

 

[BMur]

Reblued

Actually taking another close look at photo 1 shows a dark reblue on the trigger so I suppose the surface finish may have been helped also but it does present itself well.

Murph

 

[mmaher94087]

Helped.. um.. yes. The triggers were case colored along with the hammers.

 

[MHF]

No 2?

Here's a larger pict.
I've been looking around and I'm calling this a No 2? But is it a No 1 1/2? Perhaps fixed up but at 150 yo i'd need a lot more than blued triggered.
And the lines of the gun don't look wire wheeled to me. I've got a letter request in the mail.
Thanks

 

[mmaher94087]

You appear to have a 5", #2 Army. I'm hoping it is nickel. Post #1 photo of the cylinder looks wire brushed. Your subsequent photos of the entire revolver look like a nickel finish. Wish I could hold this one in my hand. I still suspect a refinish based on the blue trigger.

 

[Patbar]

Here's a larger pict.
I've been looking around and I'm calling this a No 2? But is it a No 1 1/2? Perhaps fixed up but at 150 yo i'd need a lot more than blued triggered.
And the lines of the gun don't look wire wheeled to me. I've got a letter request in the mail.
Thanks

The 1 1/2 Model has a 5 shots cylinder whereas the No 2 has a 6 shots cylinder.

 

[MHF]

Patent

Thanks,
I think instead of wire wheeled i would say it was carded. The cylinder reads "Patented April 3,1855, July 5,1859 & Dec 13, 1863". the last 2 years are vague and the day and year may not be accurate. There is also an inscription on the barrel "Smith & Wesson,Springfield,Mass." None of this will photograph with my cell phone.There is a very faint 60 or 09 on the cylinder. And something on the flat of the barrel that could be an 60 or 09. but again it will not show in photo.
But anyway I have enjoyed the exchange here.

 

[rta72]

If we are doing amateur fixes and not minding doing it the professional way. Is there any negatives filling the cap with baking soda and the adding thin super glue on top of it? This method seems to fill the crack quite nicely. Also makes it less prone to crack more? Even better to use saw dust of the same tone as the wood you are filling?