Hey everyone sorry havent posted in a while but i finally got this thing to fire the way i wanted it to i replaced the striker spring with that of the glock reduced power i replaced all the prings in the sear block and polished everything i grinded 1 coil off of the outer sear block spring since doing these modifications dont want to say i fixed anything some people take this thing way to serious i have the trigger at 7.22 lbs it fires nice i have discharged over 300 rounds thru this firearm since the modifications i made i did have 1 ftf it was a self reload i have fired 200 reounds of boxed ammunition and it has not ftf yet i would carry this as a ppg but i like my baretta a little better as for using springs from pens i couldnt find one that worked or id probably try it what it boils down to is what ever you do to your gun it obviously voids the warranty and your life may depend on it i hope personally i myself or everyone in the world never needs to find out whether or not my gun will ftf when i need it but its a crazy world we live in and life goes in many directions at the same time.
Pictures Of Sigma Internals?
- Thread starter Kawabuggy
- Start date
At the risk of "adding negative energy" to the sensitive souls who cannot abide any contrary opinions about their re-engineering the Sigma, there is a way to test the modified Sigmas for reliability.
Get some of the hot defense ammo (like that used at your PD) and rip off a couple hundred shots.
The hotter the ammo, the stronger the sear springs need to be.
If it fires the first shot and quits, that's because the SEAR DID NOT RESET.
Get some of the hot defense ammo (like that used at your PD) and rip off a couple hundred shots.
The hotter the ammo, the stronger the sear springs need to be.
If it fires the first shot and quits, that's because the SEAR DID NOT RESET.
TNDixieGirl
Member
Thats the longest freakin' sentence I've ever seen in my life.
Mickstix
Member
Hey guys, been posting my findings in all the "sigma" mod threads that I come across.. I put in a Wolff reduced power "striker" spring, from MidwayUSA, and it killed the reliability of my Sigma9VE.. Made the trigger feel alot better, but in 30 rounds I had 3 FTF's due to light primer strikes.. All 3 roudns had nice dents in the primer (couldnt tell the diff from fired rounds) but they didnt go off the first time. I reloaded them and 2 went off on the 2nd attempt, and the 3rd fired on the third try.. I had more guns with me at the range, so the 10% FTF rate made me put it away for the day.. I was shooting WWB 115gr FMJ Target/Range ammo exclusively.. I may eventually give a 4lb. Glock spring a chance, if I come across one, but for now it's back to stock for me.. I was already used to the heavy pull of the trigger, but the "tinker'" in me wouldnt let me leave it alone..
So, just wanted to pass along my findings incase anyone is researching reduced power striker springs.. Thanks for the info and links in this thread though, they've made me alot more knowledgeable on my Sigma9VE!! "2 Thumbs up"
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The SIGMA is designed to have a trigger like a DAO revolver, in length, distance and weight (Model 64, specifically). If you want a lighter trigger pull, get an M&P or 1911.
I'm not a lawyer (I do work with them daily), but it sure seems like you are putting a large lawsuit bullseye on your back. Before you start selling your kits, you may want to speak with an attorney.
Not trying to discourage you, just trying to protect you.
jeff
Ok, the heck with trying to sale the kit. This is what I did to my sw40ve. To lighten trigger pull, First - I took a ball point pen spring and cut it a little shorter then the original trigger return spring and bent the ends to resemble the oringinal spring and put the trigger assembly back together. Second - I took the sear assembly apart and completely removed the outter spring of the two sear springs. Third - I polished the back of the sear ( the part that contacts the the sear ramp ) then reassembled. Now that we ave lightened the trigger pull, it's time to shorten the travel. Go buy a set of filler gauges ( can be bought at any auto parts store ) starting at .006 on up, and a pair of tin snipps, you will also need a dremel for sanding and polishing purposses. Now measure the sear ramp and cut the filler gauge to fit the entire portion of the sear ramps length ( from where the ramp begins to curve up all the way to the end of the ramp )even though the sear does not ride on the entire length of the ramp, this is neccessary to keep it in place ( I started with .006 and worked my way up to .010, I recommand starting with .006 and work your way up for practice and personal preference ). You may need to cut and assemble a few times to figure a good length. Once you have the proper size ( length and width ) cut out, use the dremel to sand and smooth the edges. At the edge that the sear will contact first needs to be sanded like a ramp or angled for smooth transition with the sear. Now, polish all the edges and even the flat part that will contact the sear, clean, use a little grease between the sear and the new ramp, slide the new ramp forward for better reassembly, then reassemble the gun. Once the gun is reassembled squeeze the trigger softly to full pull to make sure the new piece is in it's proper place. And thats pretty much it, although you may need to polish more if you get any gritty trigger pull. Like I said I worked my way up to .010 and it works great, reduced a lot of my trigger pull to around half the amount of pull. DO NOT CHANGE YOUR STRIKER SPRING !!!!! It is neccessary because reducing your trigger travel also reduces the amount of striker travel... I do not recommand however going any further then .010 I tried .011 and .012 and had problems with the sear engaging the striker, but you may find that more, or even less works better for you. BTW this mod will also prevent wear on your original sear ramp. Try it and post to let me know how this all works for you. I will also try to work on getting pictures of this procedure for anyone who needs them...
Here is how I reduced trigger travel:
I changed the location, and size of the slot in the trigger rod. In looking at the internals, I saw the quickest way to shorten the pull of the trigger was to remove the slop between the sear pin, and the trigger rod slot. I wanted the sear to start moving as soon as the trigger moved. By moving the slot in the rod further back on the rod so that the sear started moving sooner, I reduced the distance that the trigger traveled before the sear released.
I tig welded the rod where the pin rides, and then reground the rod slot to more closely match the OD of the sear pin, and at the same time moved the slot location further back-about .080"-so that the sear was at the base of the ramp even before touching the trigger. You have to be careful though as if you move the slot too much, the sear won't reset. I took very careful measurements with a caliper before I attempted this.
I can think of a couple additional ways to reduce trigger pull, but both ways might would decrease the stroke of the striker assembly in addition to shortening the trigger pull. If you kept a stock striker spring this might work, but if you went with a lighter spring, and then used one of these alternate methods to reduce trigger travel, it may result in decreased reliability.
The way I chose might be a bit much for some, but I've proven that it will work, and it does not affect the reliability of the gun at all.
I am very interested in how TonyT accomplished this as there is usually more ways than one to skin a cat.
I changed the location, and size of the slot in the trigger rod. In looking at the internals, I saw the quickest way to shorten the pull of the trigger was to remove the slop between the sear pin, and the trigger rod slot. I wanted the sear to start moving as soon as the trigger moved. By moving the slot in the rod further back on the rod so that the sear started moving sooner, I reduced the distance that the trigger traveled before the sear released.
I tig welded the rod where the pin rides, and then reground the rod slot to more closely match the OD of the sear pin, and at the same time moved the slot location further back-about .080"-so that the sear was at the base of the ramp even before touching the trigger. You have to be careful though as if you move the slot too much, the sear won't reset. I took very careful measurements with a caliper before I attempted this.
I can think of a couple additional ways to reduce trigger pull, but both ways might would decrease the stroke of the striker assembly in addition to shortening the trigger pull. If you kept a stock striker spring this might work, but if you went with a lighter spring, and then used one of these alternate methods to reduce trigger travel, it may result in decreased reliability.
The way I chose might be a bit much for some, but I've proven that it will work, and it does not affect the reliability of the gun at all.
I am very interested in how TonyT accomplished this as there is usually more ways than one to skin a cat.
By doing my mod you are not tig welding anything or really even changing any of the parts, you are simply lowering the sear from th start position ( mine to .010 ) by adding to the sear ramp. This way ( if needed ) you could simply pull the plate out for warranty purposses or use differant thicknesses for tuning for personal prefrence. Also this is not permanent unless you want it to be and can be removed and put back to stock or tuned to how you like it...
I see Tony replied while I was typing my reply!
If you read both posts you'll see that he indicates to NOT USE a lighter striker spring, just as I indicated in my post that using a light spring, along with a shorter travel distance for the striker assembly may result in FTF's.
The way that I did it will allow you to use a lighter striker spring, AND also reduce trigger pull. Not that my way is better, they will both accomplish the same thing! My way requires access to a tig welder, a Dremel tool, small jewelers file, and craft sized pins (drill bits) and pin holder. With that said, for the home enthusiast, Tony's way is far easier.
Just goes to show, there ARE ways to improve on these guns.
Happy shooting, and happy Thanksgiving to all!
If you read both posts you'll see that he indicates to NOT USE a lighter striker spring, just as I indicated in my post that using a light spring, along with a shorter travel distance for the striker assembly may result in FTF's.
The way that I did it will allow you to use a lighter striker spring, AND also reduce trigger pull. Not that my way is better, they will both accomplish the same thing! My way requires access to a tig welder, a Dremel tool, small jewelers file, and craft sized pins (drill bits) and pin holder. With that said, for the home enthusiast, Tony's way is far easier.
Just goes to show, there ARE ways to improve on these guns.
Happy shooting, and happy Thanksgiving to all!
Kawabuggy
Honestly, I myself have not tried a lighter striker spring and it may work just fine but I prefer it the way it is. I also em not saying that your way is not good, but it doesn't sound to tunable and not everyone has access to the amount of tools you have. This mod is simple doesn't take to long to do and is ( like I said ) completely reversable. By shortening the trigger pull this way does in fact greatly reduces the amount of trgger pull automaticly and like I said also prevents wear on the original sear ramp...
HAPPY THANKSGIVING EVERYONE !!!!!
Honestly, I myself have not tried a lighter striker spring and it may work just fine but I prefer it the way it is. I also em not saying that your way is not good, but it doesn't sound to tunable and not everyone has access to the amount of tools you have. This mod is simple doesn't take to long to do and is ( like I said ) completely reversable. By shortening the trigger pull this way does in fact greatly reduces the amount of trgger pull automaticly and like I said also prevents wear on the original sear ramp...
HAPPY THANKSGIVING EVERYONE !!!!!
bullitt1668
Member
Hello there,
I own a SW9VE, I love every thing about the gun but the heavy trigger pull. I've spent the past couple of hours reading your great post here, but I don't think I'm up to the challenge of doing the trigger job my self.
Is anyone out there can do the trigger job for a fee? Tony, Kawa, 99.. any takers?
I own a SW9VE, I love every thing about the gun but the heavy trigger pull. I've spent the past couple of hours reading your great post here, but I don't think I'm up to the challenge of doing the trigger job my self.
Is anyone out there can do the trigger job for a fee? Tony, Kawa, 99.. any takers?
Mickstix
Member
Bullit, call S&W and tell em the trigger on your 9VE is hard and gritty.. They'll pay for all shipping, and the work is free.. I heard it's only a 2 day turnaround as well.. (Read about this in the "smithing" forum) Let me know how it goes..
Tony, how about some pix?? Your mods sound very interesting, but w/o pictures to go along with the instructions, most of us are hopeless..
Tony, how about some pix?? Your mods sound very interesting, but w/o pictures to go along with the instructions, most of us are hopeless..
gmchenry
Member
This place is a revolving door of new folks that come through here touting all kinds of trigger mods and then they quietly disappear.
You rarely hear them coming back to tell us how their mod wasn't reliable after some use.
The Sigma is what it is. If you want something different, get something different. The trigger is heavy, but it shouldn't be heavy and gritty. Hopefully S&W will fix it up for you.
You rarely hear them coming back to tell us how their mod wasn't reliable after some use.
The Sigma is what it is. If you want something different, get something different. The trigger is heavy, but it shouldn't be heavy and gritty. Hopefully S&W will fix it up for you.
Gmchenry--are you the grinch that is trying to steal Christmas? Can you tell me the last day in your life that you were "happy" about anything?
Myself-Kawabuggy-and others, DO STILL follow this post. We are still around, and our guns are still functioning just fine.
I've told you this before if you have nothing POSITIVE to contribute-why don't you just buzz off and quit wasting bandwidth? Can you just do that..?
You dislike those of us who have attempted to modify our guns, and yet you still follow this post and keep posting useless crap. It's really getting old.
If this post STILL upsets you after all this time-I wonder what the real problem in your life is.. What ever it is, you need professional help. Please, see a doctor about your problem. Life is too short to go through it hating. Your glass is half-empty, I get it. You want everyone else to get it to. Problem is, the rest of the world is celebrating life while you are berating it. We don't understand you and we never will because most of us are capable of joy. You my friend, apparently are not. That's not our problem. That's a problem for you and your therapist to work through.
I think I feel I represent the group when I tell you that YOU are the problem with this post, not anyone else that posts here, or anyone that wants to modify their gun.. Just you. Now, please, for the last time, just move on. The World Wide Web is a huge place. I'm sure if you look around you can find some other bulletin boards to vomit your negativity on. We all here have seen it, we're not amused, and we all want you to just go away.
To everyone else-Have a Merry Christmas!
Myself-Kawabuggy-and others, DO STILL follow this post. We are still around, and our guns are still functioning just fine.
I've told you this before if you have nothing POSITIVE to contribute-why don't you just buzz off and quit wasting bandwidth? Can you just do that..?
You dislike those of us who have attempted to modify our guns, and yet you still follow this post and keep posting useless crap. It's really getting old.
If this post STILL upsets you after all this time-I wonder what the real problem in your life is.. What ever it is, you need professional help. Please, see a doctor about your problem. Life is too short to go through it hating. Your glass is half-empty, I get it. You want everyone else to get it to. Problem is, the rest of the world is celebrating life while you are berating it. We don't understand you and we never will because most of us are capable of joy. You my friend, apparently are not. That's not our problem. That's a problem for you and your therapist to work through.
I think I feel I represent the group when I tell you that YOU are the problem with this post, not anyone else that posts here, or anyone that wants to modify their gun.. Just you. Now, please, for the last time, just move on. The World Wide Web is a huge place. I'm sure if you look around you can find some other bulletin boards to vomit your negativity on. We all here have seen it, we're not amused, and we all want you to just go away.
To everyone else-Have a Merry Christmas!
bullitt1668
Member
Originally posted by Mickstix:
Bullit, call S&W and tell em the trigger on your 9VE is hard and gritty.. They'll pay for all shipping, and the work is free.. I heard it's only a 2 day turnaround as well.. (Read about this in the "smithing" forum) Let me know how it goes..
Tony, how about some pix?? Your mods sound very interesting, but w/o pictures to go along with the instructions, most of us are hopeless..
Has anyone done this before? How light or 'heavy' is your trigger after seding it to S&W?
Thanks,
Bullitt
P.S. If I decide to do this mod my self, I like to have some spare parts in case I mess up. Could any plz tell me what parts do you think I need to order for spares and where to get them? Thanks Again!!!
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