Project mod 14/15 re-barrel to 3 inch - UPDATE

Belgian686

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I know I might upset people by this idea, and I am also very reluctant to modify anything that is not easily reversible on a nice old revolver (especially if it's a S&W, Colt or Ruger).

However, I have to opportunity to get a esthetically beaten up mod 14 for about 200 $, where a relatively good shape older 14/15 starts around 350/400 $ equivalent, and you can find plenty of those here in Western Europe. Just because revolvers are not trendy anymore compared to the tupperware 9mm, especially if the revolver is a 'too often seen' .38 SP like a mod. 14. It's a shame, but this being said, I am not the handgun's WWF trying to save hundreds of fine handguns. I have the classics I like, and am not intended at all to duplicate what I already have (certainly not as investment, as that is here a lost deal - although I prefer to have nice guns at decent prices, rather than being unable to buy classics as the prices are crazy : I have watched a older older model 16 .32 S&W Long selling for about 900 $ recently, and own since 15 years a 98% 547 I paid 300 $ - now estimated here 7/800 $ equivalent - nice, no ? ;) ).

Back to this beaten but mechanically decent model 14, which I would like to convert into a 3 inch barrel gun with adjustable sights, by having the barrel cut, re-crowned and a front sight installed to it (by a very experienced gunsmith). If the result looks good, I might have it re-blued or cera-coated (in matte black - not pink or zombie -green ;)), but that's a question for much later.

Why : because I am absolutely crazy about 3-inch K-frames with or without adjustable sights :D

Have any of you pictures of similar projects ? Can you post them ?

Thanks a million and best greetings from the old continent.
 
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It sounds like a great project. Many on the forum have either purchased frames, barrels or parts with the idea of turning them into something they have imagined or just to take a beater that would have gone to the scrap pile and turn it into something of beauty or at least a much more useable carry piece.
 
Sounds like a cool project. Given the circumstances, the 14 is not a huge loss, so cut away and enjoy.
Would like to see a follow up when you have it finished.
I like a patridge style sight, and would like to try one on a short barreled revolver with adjustable sights.
Although it would not be holster friendly, I would go that route.
 
I like the idea. I might go with a McGivern Bead Patridge front sight. A 3" barrel on a K frame might look like a slightly scaled down 3.5" Model 27. Hmmm.... maybe have the top strap and barrel rib checkered and fit a Model 27 checkered rear sight assembly too ?
 
This is not a Model 14. This is a Model 25-2 that was originally a 6 or 6.5" barrel. It now is a 4.25" barrel with a Patridge sight and a McGivern gold bead.

I like it. A lot.

Kevin
 

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Hack Away.....

A 4 inch model 19-7 with factory round butt, whacked off to 3 inches.

An unfired model 617-1 with a 6 inch barrel, whacked off to 3 inches before it was ever fired.

A 6 inch model 17-8, 10 shot k22, whacked off to 3 inches.

A model 13-3 with a model 19 barrel whacked off to 3 inches

A model 681, 4 inch L frame, whacked off to 3 inches with night sight.


One of my favorite past times is whackin' off K frames

Ned
 
Sounds like a bunch of enablers here… the naysayers must have missed this thread! :D

No argument from me either. My two K frame builds involved barrel and cylinder changes to achieve desired products in 32 S&W L (a K32 homage) and 327 FM ("the gun S&W should have built but never did!") ;)

They're tools, and if you can get them to do a job better for you, you're joining an unbroken line of craftsmen all the way back to the first cave man who chipped a little flake off of his piece of flint so it cut better. I bet there was somebody there complaining that messing with the originality of the rocks would bring down the wrath of the gods and destroy the tribe! :eek:

Regards,
Froggie
 

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Thanks for all the responses ;).

The pictures provided convince me more and more to go that route. I didn't even consider recovering the existing front sight, I was thinking of a dovetailed high blade, but the pictures provided by Kevin and Ned are great. The 617-1 and 17-8 :p - if I was proposed these to purchase, I could sacrifice quite something for those. They are even RB now - the 617-1 looks like a scaled down 686. S&W should add these to the regular line :).

Ned - do you have close-up pictures of the sights and how they were fixed on the barrel ?

I already talked to my gunsmith, and he told me to jump in with the gun, and discuss. If this goes through, I'll keep everyone updated.

Once again, thumbs up for this forum - I am on a gun forum over here in Belgium, but that's way too much bashing and whining about legal restrictions, 'the virus' and other useless blablabla... I refrain to post on there for that reason. Here, after only one day after raising the question, I have already a wealth of good advice.

Let your comments come, there are all much appreciated.

Best - B686
 
Sounds like a bunch of enablers here… the naysayers must have missed this thread! :D

No argument from me either. My two K frame builds involved barrel and cylinder changes to achieve desired products in 32 S&W L (a K32 homage) and 327 FM ("the gun S&W should have built but never did!") ;)

They're tools, and if you can get them to do a job better for you, you're joining an unbroken line of craftsmen all the way back to the first cave man who chipped a little flake off of his piece of flint so it cut better. I bet there was somebody there complaining that messing with the originality of the rocks would bring down the wrath of the gods and destroy the tribe! :eek:

Regards,
Froggie

I have seen a few of your posts on your 616 ;) I admit I stopped watching, too depressive knowing this in not a regular S&W item :D. Still looking for a 4" 631 kit gun in .32 H&R, and that might cost an arm here. No need to hope for the newer .327 FM, as that cartridge is not CIP approved, so not allowed for import in most of Western Europe. Sorry, I promised I wouldn't start whining :)
 
Just another little suggestion… a 3" revolver is not primarily a target gun, so I would be hesitant to use a Patridge front sight blade. Instead I would be likely to use a Baughman ramp instead. If you carry it in a holster the ramped blade will work much better for you than the flat face of a Patridge. JMHO, of course. You have to please you! ;)

Froggie
 
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Finally, a naysayer. I have had the bbls of 2 revolvers cut: A 25-2 from 6" (6.5"?) to 4" and a New Frontier SAA from 7.5" to 4 5/8". Both jobs were performed skillfully by qualified 'smiths. Later on, however, I wondered why I had bothered since I did not care for either gun after the 'smithing. The 25-2 is long gone, and the SAA New Frontier sits unappreciated in the safe. It's your call, OP, but myself, I would prefer a concrete, 'using', reason for such a drastic modification. As always, YMMV.

Kaaskop49
Shield #5103
 
Kaaskop49,

The OP states in his post that he knows the cost will exceed any expected return if he were to sell it, but he really likes 3" K frames and since he's getting his "donor gun" at a fire sale price due to its cosmetic condition, no real collectible condition consideration will be involved. I really don't see any legitimate negative to this project. I may be looking through rose colored glasses, but I like it!

Froggie
 
…Thanks for all the responses ;)

You are most welcome. We like to enable folks!

… Ned - do you have close-up pictures of the sights and how they were fixed on the barrel ?…

Not Nedroe but here are some photos of how front sight on my revolvers are attached.

Left is a Model 1917, cut to 4" and the original front sight and ramp cut from the barrel, shaped on the bottom and soldered in place. The half moon sight was then reshaped and the gold bead added.

Right is the Model 25-2, cut to 4.25", the ramp and sight cut from the original barrel leaving a tab under the ramp. The top of the rib was slotted for the tab and the sight ramp soldered in place.

Alternatively, you could leave the tab longer and pin it through the rib.

Kevin
 

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