Question for SD9VE owners. Steel Case ammo?

HappyTom

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Do any of you guys use steel case ammo in your SD9VE?
If yes, what brands do you like?

If no, I would like to hear your opinions on why.


Thank You for your time.
Tom
 
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Hey, Tom

Only reason I know of to use steel is the cheap price.

I used it at times without trouble.

Then I found Freedom Munitions. Their prices for new and reman are cheaper than steel, cheaper than anything I have seen.

And your first order includes free shipping, and they have daily sales.

But even if you buy their ammo and pay shipping, it is still cheaper than stores you go in and not have to pay shipping.

Doc
 
Do whatever the blank you want. You want to run **** through your gun. Do it. It's your gun, your money.
 
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Use Rusky ****e almost exclusively for range. Have had 4 problems since 1998. Use in every type of firearm. Mausers, Lugers, 1911, S&W 3rd gen, Glock, Sig, AR, Remington 700. .....4 issues since 1998 in tens of thousands of rounds

If anyone is afraid to shoot it I'll gladly take it of your hands
 
I use 2 types of ammo at the range. Cheap and cheaper.
TulaAmmo steel case and Federal aluminum case. Never had one issue with either.
Tula can be had around here for $10.97/50 rd box & Federal Aluminum can be had for $9.97/50 rd box.

And Freedom Munitions is good too, for the first time buyer and their free shipping.
 
Use Rusky ****e almost exclusively for range. Have had 4 problems since 1998. Use in every type of firearm. Mausers, Lugers, 1911, S&W 3rd gen, Glock, Sig, AR, Remington 700. .....4 issues since 1998 in tens of thousands of rounds

If anyone is afraid to shoot it I'll gladly take it of your hands

What he said^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
 
I have used only brass in my SD9ve 9mm and TulaAmmo steel case in my wife's Sig P238 380. for target practice
 
The Russians and their minions have been using it since 1891 without a problem...me, a much shorter time span, also without problemes.

Some Brands have a few lots that run a litter dirtier that others (read more burnt powder fouling) but the same can be said of some bargain priced bulk purchased US made ammo too.
 
I don't particularly like Tula and other cheap steel case ammo because I feel it is loaded soft, and is a bit less accurate than more "premium" ammo lines, not to mention inherently dirty. I very rarely shoot standing still at a regular range these days, and have gravitated toward action pistol shoots. For that purpose, quality ammo is just better for me. Fortunately, I live in the tax free state of DE and can get Sig Sauer FMJ, PMC Bronze, Magtech etc all for less than $12 a box (50), 124gr NATO Ball (10% over pressure) for $14/50 rounds, and American Eagle 100rd packs for $18-20. I can also get some even cheaper brass stuff such as Perfecta, Herter's, Federal Aluminum etc for under $10/50rds if I chose to. All of this is regular retail in stores. At those prices, it doesn't make sense to me to venture into steel or surplus 9mm, even though I shoot a minimum of 250 rounds per week in 9mm. That being said, I have put a few boxes of Wolf and Tula 9mm through my SD9VE without any failures or issues, I just personally didn't like the overall performance of those products. For rifle calibers though, namely anything not shot from an AR, I shoot quite a bit of steel case Tula, Bear, Wolf etc with good results as well. My AR's seem to also digest steel case Ammo just fine, but I only feed them brass with an occasional few boxes of MFS Zinc coated steel case ammo when it's in local stores soley because $4.50 a box for decent shooting .223 is a great buy!
 
I've never shot steel case ammo through any of my guns-handguns or AR. Just my choice. With regular factory ammo at decent prices and the fact that I reload for all my calibers, steel case is not even on my radar.
 
My SD40 VE eats Tula and wolf like a fat kid eats cake.
 
I fire steel case ammo now and then. I usually stick to the Russian manufacture polymer or lacquer coated ammo. Dirty? Yes. Even inexpensive brass case is dirty today. Extra cleaning? Yes, but I clean after every trip to the range anyways. I just make sure to give the chamber a clean out.

Stay the heck away from this stuff:

58697_zpskydx5r7x.jpg


It is deceptive. It is nickel washed steel case.

0b9eb1f1-57e7-49ea-b00f-277dbb03fcfc_zpswzdj6wc6.jpg


Case split occurs every 10 or so rounds. The steel used has no rebound, stays expanded, the nickel wash does jack, and voila stuck case. I can't get through three shots without having to put a wood dowel down the muzzle and tap out the stuck case.

A low price suckered me into buying this garbage. The only firearm I have that cycles this junk is my KelTec Sub2K Gen2. I think it's the super stout extractor and the mass of the blowback system that does the trick.

Did I forget to mention that this ammo is neither accurate or precise? Inconsistent charge weights from I think I have a squib to holy **** was that a borderline overcharge. The projectiles must not be balanced. From what I can tell they wobble when they spin.
 
Steel cased ammo was employed by the Germans, Russians and Americans during WWII because of shortages in strategic materials like copper (brass). It was never the preferred case material but was a wartime substitute. Armies view military weapons as expendable so steel cased ammo is not a factor for them. It is for me. Steel cases are harder than brass. Steel causes more friction than brass. Friction causes wear. Keep your steel cased ammo. I'll keep shooting brass cased ammo.

Best Regards,
ADP3

Why use steel-case ammo if there are other choices?

Best Regards,
ADP3
 
Why use steel-case ammo if there are other choices?

Best Regards,
ADP3
,
I used tulammo steel case a lot when ammo was so hard , impossible some times to find , got warned , but I found nothing wrong with it ,,,, until I did posted here somewhere all I had to go through to get the bad round out of my gun. I have 400 RDs put back. Maybe some day I will try them again.
 
They all work fine in mine. I generally shoot Perfecta because it is a little cheaper.
 

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