Range Gun in .357: K, L, or N Frame?

[MacA]

I have all three frame sizes in various lengths, and the ones that stands out above all the rest are the L frames w/ 4" barrels. My 686 no dash 4" is an amazing weapon. I actually own two now. One is a NIB safe queen, while the other is my favorite range gun!

Not only are they the most versatile, they are the best looking as well .....

 

[crsides]

27


Charlie

 

[trauma1]

6" L frame - 586/686. They are a little bit heavier, easier to find and generally a little less expensive. Also seem to be pretty accurate regardless what you put through them.

 

[C.S.63]

Nody,
All great Info provided, Just recently I purchased an N frame model 28
similar to your reasoning Get a 28 or a 27 The L frames are great also
but do not miss the boat on an N frame .357 (model 28) the prices are starting to climb on the nicer ones, Oh I also have a 681 but prefer the sights on the 28 I guess it is the Bifocals, and I also shoot outdoors almost always these days. happy revolver hunting

 

[nody]

Excellent feedback and advice Gentlemen!

I am pleaseantly surprised to hear of the good out of the box trigger pulls on the L's, and your affection for them. One always worries about "new fangled…"

Many years ago I had a 5" 27, 5-screw. It was nice but always felt a little light in front, or rather, heavy in back.

I handled a 6" 28 the other day, and have enjoyed the many recent threads here about the Highway Patrolman.

The other N-frames I had was a 6" 29 and 25, which really were better balanced than the 5" 27, but was also a tank for lots of off hand shooting.

Today I stopped by a shop that had both a 6" 586 and 4" 686. I'm definitely a bs guy, and I was very impressed by the finish of the 586.

With that lug, the center of gravity was, as expected, NOTICIBLY different between the two bbl lengths, moreso than the 4 vs 6" 29/25. The 5/686s were amazingly well balanced, though very noticibly different. I can see where the extra 2" would really steady the muzzle, but also slow it down a bit.

I did not dry fire them out of courtesy, so I did not get a chance to feel the trigger pulls.

Both were in high 90s condition, and high $5xx. Likewise the few 28s about are in the high $5s-low 6s. I should have noted the -#s. Seemed a bit steep, but I'm not dialed on the market yet, the way you Gents are.

I have to say, based primarily upon your reccommendations, as well as feel, and as a change of pace from the past, the 586 is the most intriguing at the moment. I'll no doubt shoot a lot more steel than paper, and am more hankering for a 4" of whatever, though giving up the velocity and sight radius stings.

Originally, I was thinking 4" 19 vs 4" 28, but as sweet as the 19 is, my K-38 and K-22 never wowed me as much as I had hoped, or anywhere near as much as their big bothers. I liked Old Bear's comment, ".357 Magnum K frames are to carried a lot and shot a little."

I am now recalling that S&Ws are like M&Ms: You can't stop at one!

P.S.

I imagine you fellas saw these, but just in case you didn't, they are simply stunning. S&W should hire DHart.

http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-revolvers-1980-present/223117-586-27-a-2.html

[/QUOTE]

 

[fyimo]

I have the 686 and 586 both with 6 inch barrel and they are both great shooters but my favorite range 357 magnum for shooting full house 357 magnum rounds is my Model 28-2 with 6 inch barrel. it balances well and isn't barrel heavy and handles the recoil like a dream.

 

[Hearsedriver]

FYI, If you decide on a 586 or 686, the "no dash" and the "-1's" had a recall. If it has been performed, there will be an "M" stamped near the model number. If not, you can call S&W and they will send you a shipping lable and perform the modification at no charge ( replace firing pin and bushing). I have one going back to them next week for it. If the model is 586/686-2 or above, the recall is not necassary.

 

[Doug M.]

Get one of each! I have a 4" 66, a 4" 686 MG, and plan to get a 5" M27. The 66 is not for a steady diet of .357s, but is easier to carry. I suspect that most of what I will use are .38 wadcutters and some heavy .38 SWC loads. I also plan to get a K38, just because.

 

[zelda]

My Model 28 is not chunky like a 686. lt is more proportioned and graceful.

 

[NavyFrank]

N Frame

I prefer an N frame. I have a choice of 627 8shot, 28-2 or a 3 1/2 inch 27-2. This weekend it's going to be the 27-2 in a Bucheimer Duty holster/rig.

Frank
SWCA 2087

 

[steamloco76]

My 586 with 6" underlug barrel I believe fits the description of what you are looking for. It is extremely accurate with full load 158 grain .357 rounds.

After shooting those same rounds from my model 65 3" gun, I pick up the 586 and the barrel just stays on target shot after shot, and the trigger is so smooth.

I have shot my friends model 27, which is nice, but I would not trade him 586 for 27.

I really like the 586/686 revolvers with the 6 inch barrel as range guns. They seem to shoot very well with everything from 148 grain .38 Spl. wadcutters to booming full house .357 Magnums. My N frame guns don't do nearly as well with .38 Spl. loads. and I only shoot mid level Magnums from the light K frame guns.

 

[BearBio]

All of the above excellent comments and... my 28 6" was purchased with Pachmayr grips on it. It felt great and pointed well. As a wood kind of guy, I installed a set of service magnas and the gun feels and points completely differently. Grips do make a big difference. I shoot with the Pachmayrs and show with the wood. Get a gun and grips that fit your hand and fingers.

I have N, L and K frames and they are like kids. Different, but you love each one.

Good luck with your choice. You can't go very far wrong with any of the guns listed. Best wishes.

I agree. Not only grip size between the N and K/L, but configuration. My .44 Charter Arms only feels comfortable with Herretts, one N frame (5.5") with Ahrend smooth targets. My 6" N frame (25-5) is most accurate with factory targets. My 4" N frame (Model 28) fits me best with service grips, whereas my .44 special 3" is best with combats. Each one balances slightly different.


here are my S & W snubbies just as an example:

I think (I KNOW, actually) most of us have a box of extra grips that don't "feel right" or "look right" for some reason.

 

[nody]

Since I had so many helpful responses, I thought you gents deserved some pics; everyone likes gun pics!

After quite a bit of looking I found a 586 no dash with only slight muzzle wear and a cylinder line. Since I have already run 1500 full house .357 Mag hand loads through it DA, using goodly doses of 2400 and Blue Dot pushing 158 gr commercial cast SWCs, I wasn't too worried about "normal wear."

The main thing is it had ZERO rust/scratches/damage. A slight burring of the cyclinder release screw head was about it for "abuse."

The DA/SA existing trigger was VERY nice, but a Wolff kit made it simply the best trigger I have ever touched, with 100% reliability.

I have a set of unfinished Cocobolo Ahrends on order, but they are a little backed up, happily for them. When they come in and I get them finished, I'll post some more if this generates any interest.

Anyway, to the pictures! Enjoy.

 

[A10]

For strictly target (maybe hunting if you want to) I'd ele 8 ct the 27-2 with an 8 3/8" barrel. Very accurate, better recoil, and the least expensive 27 you can find right now.

 

[murphydog]

An excellent choice, and glad you found the gun you wanted.

 

[wantmoresmiths]

Very nice 586. It should serve you well.

Interesting post. I wish I had seen it when it originated. My advice for a gun that would never see the inside of a holster, would have been 4" nickel plated model 27-2. Great balance, superb accuracy, and a slight bit of collectability, since they only made the 4" model 27 for a few years. I once owned one, but sold it off to finance one of the guns I currently use for IDPA. Continually drawing from a holster is not nickel finish friendly.

 

[2hawk]

Congrats nody, you've got a fine weapon there. I had one just like it, it was my first "nice" revolver, and it shot lights out. Used to take a bunch of old golf balls and throw them out about 50-60 feet and just obliterate them. Guys I shot with told me I needed to throw them further, too many one shot kills

 

[NE450No2]

N Frame 44 Mags and 45 ACP's are my favorite revolvers, so if I wanted a 38/357 i would probably go with a 6" Mod 27...

But actually for a strictly range gun a 6" L frame with a full underlug would be hard to beat.

When I shot in PPC matches I started out with a 6" Mod 14 with the factory barrel and had a full length Bomar rib put on it, with a great DA action job of course.

I tried several different custom bull barreled PPC guns made by several of the top name makers, but even at 50 yards that S&W out shot them all.

I would try all 3 frame sizes and see what you like the best.

 

[M2MikeGolf]

All suggestions here are relavant and practical. I just have to add one in as it seems to be omitted; it was my first .357 and maybe the best, but for carrying, it was simply out of the question. It has always seemed to me the ultimate .357 however; the 8 3/8" model 27. I often wished I had never sold it, but my pure range gun days ended thirty years ago. The L-Frames are probably the perfect balance (I've got one and I love it), but I think if I were to go pure range firing, it would be that model 27 with the long barrel.

To me it seems that the J or K-Frames are the best for carryability, the N-frames for range or hunting use, and the L-Frames for the "best of both worlds". JMHO!

 

[MacA]

After quite a bit of looking I found a 586 no dash with only slight muzzle wear and a cylinder line.

Very nice choice! Good looking gun as well!! Thanks for the pics.