Range Gun in .357: K, L, or N Frame?

[nody]

If you were looking for a shooter, used, for 38 Special WC to full power .357 handloads, but were not going to carry it concealed or otherwise, for shooting steel and paper, which would be your choice, and why?

In the past, personally, I enjoyed my N-frames more than K's, but I have been away from revolvers for 25+ years, and never owned an L-frame, which were not even out yet.

 

[Hearsedriver]

I personally love my 4" L-framed 586 at the range. Nice balance and weight, Dead-on accurate, and shoots anything I put in it. Its just a dream to shoot. I picked mine up for $250.00 at a pawn shop and it is in 95% condition. I wouldnt take twice that for it.

 

[trulyapostolic]

If it were a dedicated target gun I would buy the heaviest pistol I could handle for 100 rounds without it tiring me out. The heavier the gun will give you less perceived recoil so you can concentrate on trigger control. I'd buy a full underling 6" barrel.

 

[Ironhand]

*cough-cough*


N-Frame...

 

[old bear]

.357 Magnum K frames are to carried a lot and shot a little. .357 Magnum L frames are to be carried a lot and shot a lot. .357 Magnum N frames are to be shot a lot.

As much as I really like my K & N frames the 586/686 is the best balance of the three for all around use.

 

[ElToro]

my 6 inch 28. shop hard you can pick them up for under 500. will eat almost everything you will ever shoot.

 

[bananaman]

I have my k's, but just bought a 28-2. ( 1st N) It is a 6". Haven't got it yet. It's only purpose will be range duty. I have others that will do other things as needed. Bob

 

[williamlayton]

L's or N's.--586's and 28's.
You can carry them also.
Blessings

 

[Sportsterguy]

I personally love my 4" L-framed 586 at the range. Nice balance and weight, Dead-on accurate, and shoots anything I put in it. Its just a dream to shoot. I picked mine up for $250.00 at a pawn shop and it is in 95% condition. I wouldnt take twice that for it.

Have the same no dash revolver and agree with Hearsedriver 100%. Have way over 20K rounds through it and its by far my most accurate centerfire. I took one deer with it from 65 paces using .357 158 gr. Speer Gold Dots and it did the job with authority. Only time I ever used a .357 for deer and people who say it's not enough gun haven't used theirs with the CORRECT bullet for hunting them bambies. With the right round it will easily take one down. As others will/have stated the L frame 586/686 (blue, nickel/stainless) were made for a steady diet of .357's. I'd never put that many rounds through my model 27 (N Frame) and the grip of the L framed 586 with a set of Herretts is perfect for me! The N frames grips are a little too big for DA shooting for me as I have small-medium sized hands.

I never sent it back to the factory for the M mod as it's not one of my SD revolvers, but would use it for that with no second thoughts. Paid 325.00 or less IMS for mine as it has some nickel missing from the front end of the cylinder. Not a collector but one heck of a shooting machine! Money very well spent and I'm sure you'd love one too

Terrible picture that does not do the 586 justice.

Happy hunting!

 

[Sealevel]

My 586 with 6" underlug barrel I believe fits the description of what you are looking for. It is extremely accurate with full load 158 grain .357 rounds.

After shooting those same rounds from my model 65 3" gun, I pick up the 586 and the barrel just stays on target shot after shot, and the trigger is so smooth.

I have shot my friends model 27, which is nice, but I would not trade him 586 for 27.

 

[Nick B]

Have the same no dash revolver and agree with Hearsedriver 100%. Have way over 20K rounds through it and its by far my most accurate centerfire. I took one deer with it from 65 paces using .357 158 gr. Speer Gold Dots and it did the job with authority. Only time I ever used a .357 for deer and people who say it's not enough gun haven't used theirs with the CORRECT bullet for hunting them bambies. With the right round it will easily take one down. As others will/have stated the L frame 586/686 (blue, nickel/stainless) were made for a steady diet of .357's. I'd never put that many rounds through my model 27 (N Frame) and the grip of the L framed 586 with a set of Herretts is perfect for me! The N frames grips are a little too big for DA shooting for me as I have small-medium sized hands.

I never sent it back to the factory for the M mod as it's not one of my SD revolvers, but would use it for that with no second thoughts. Paid 325.00 or less IMS for mine as it has some nickel missing from the front end of the cylinder. Not a collector but one heck of a shooting machine! Money very well spent and I'm sure you'd love one too

Terrible picture that does not do the 586 justice.

Happy hunting!

Did that Gold Dot expand at that distance ?

 

[murphydog]

All three frame types are fine choices. Best to see which one handles best for you - a 4" model 19 and an 8 3/8" model 27 feel quite a bit different, to use the extreme examples. A 4 to 6" L frame is a good middle ground gun if it balances well for you.

 

[DCWilson]

For the purposes you define, the heavier the better.

For some reason I don't think of L frames as dedicated target revolvers, though I am sure that experienced shooters can get excellent accuracy from them. For accuracy with a .357 I suspect you will want a 27 or pre-27 with a barrel not shorter than six inches. If you handload, remember that a .38/44 Outdoorsman of any vintage will handle all .38 ammo and can be loaded up to .357 levels. Sights on prewar guns are small. The postwar guns have better adjustable sights.

 

[Titegroups]

The L is the way to go, a N frame 357 is just a bunch of extra metal that's not needed.

 

[Neumann]

A 4" 686 would be a good compromise for the OP's intentions - long enough for paper and short enough for steel, which usually a speed game. I have a 686-6 7-shot, which had the best off-the-shelf trigger to that point. Since then, I've handled a couple of 686-SSR revolvers, which have the S&W charm school treatment - really sweet.

Top that off with a good set of grips. I like Ahrends Tactical grips, finger grooves with a flat front for optimum positioning. Their wide back allows a high grip position and spreads out the recoil. I'm good for 100+ rounds of full loads, especially now that I'm set up for reloading again.

 

[scooter123]

My most accurate revolver is my model 620, which is a tensioned barrel variant of the 686 Plus. Accuracy is simply stunning, however with a hot load of 357 Magnum it is a handful of power and light enough that you know it. Because of this I generally limit my ammo with this to either 38's or 38 +P. Age has taken it's toll on my wrists and I just don't have the recoil tolerance I once had.

IMO for pure range use you just can't beat the N frame. Not only does the increased mass help mitigate recoil, the N frames feature an internal trigger stop rod in the rebound spring that helps keep the rebound spring from buckling in the bore in the rebound slide. As a result, the N frames have a VERY smooth trigger. End result is that I shoot my N frames a bit better in offhand rapid fire shooting and look a bit better to anyone watching.

 

[john4970]

All of the above excellent comments and... my 28 6" was purchased with Pachmayr grips on it. It felt great and pointed well. As a wood kind of guy, I installed a set of service magnas and the gun feels and points completely differently. Grips do make a big difference. I shoot with the Pachmayrs and show with the wood. Get a gun and grips that fit your hand and fingers.

I have N, L and K frames and they are like kids. Different, but you love each one.

Good luck with your choice. You can't go very far wrong with any of the guns listed. Best wishes.

 

[TAROMAN]

Another issue is if your range time involves DA shooting. My L-frame 681 is much nicer than my N-frame 27 in DA firing due, I believe, to less rotating mass in the cylinder. For SA, its a wash.
Just seems to me that N-frames want to be .44s or .45s.

 

[Cpt. Obvious]

my 2 cents: I'd say go for a 4" L frame. I shot a 4" k and a 4" L the other day, and I enjoyed shooting my 681 more. It's not as pretty as my 19, but that 681 was a laser beam. If fixed sights aren't your bag, the 686 seems like the logical choice.

 

[Joe in SC]

Under the guidelines you posted, I would want an N-frame. A 27 or a 28 would be the choices and either will hold up forever if you choose a gun that is well timed and not ragged out from abuse and neglect. I would get a 6 inch gun.