rebound slide on 625-2

pcguy23

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I have a 625-2 I recently aquired, plan on replacing the floating hand soon , but when I took the pistol apart recently, I found a small steel rod riding inside the rebound spring in the rebound slide. I have never seen this before and haven't found it any any schematics.
Just curious if it belongs there as it has a horrible da pull and could this affect it.

Thanks in advance for any info on this

Mark
 
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I have a 625-2 I recently aquired, plan on replacing the floating hand soon , but when I took the pistol apart recently, I found a small steel rod riding inside the rebound spring in the rebound slide. I have never seen this before and haven't found it any any schematics.
Just curious if it belongs there as it has a horrible da pull and could this affect it.

Thanks in advance for any info on this

Mark
 
The rod is relatively new. I don't know just when they started using it. I can't see it as being the least bit necessary, but I also don't see it causing any problems. I imagine you could ditch it if you want, and it will be fine.

Smooth up the inside and the outside of the rebound slide. Use some sandpaper made for metal, rolled up on a screwdriver, pin, screw, etc. and sand the inside of the rebound slide. Stone the bearing surfaces of the slide on the outside. Usually, this is all that's really needed.

I'm not all that crazy about changing the rebound spring for a lighter one, as it slows down the trigger return. I have had a 681 that had an unusually heavy spring, though, and I did change it for a lighter one.
 
Actually, the rod is pretty old although I think they discontinued it for a while. It was meant as an overtravel stop (as opposed to a screw through the trigger or on some, a small piece of metal in the back of the trigger guard).
Personally I've always taken them out.
 
I didn't know that. I don't think any of mine from the '60's-70's have the rod. My new 22-4 does and I think my 624 from the '80's does. I just figured it was a new deal.
 
It's a stud on the trigger that the hand rides on, instead of the pin on the hand that fits into the trigger.
Not terribly familiar with it but I read Smith did'nt use it very long and it doesn't seem like people are too fond of the design

It's my first N-Frame, and you know what that means... It's a 625-2 with a 5" barrel and I already want a 625 with a 3" barrel, and .. and..
it's a terrible disease to have and the only relief is another gun


Mark
 
changing the hand is probably not going to affect the trigger pull. If you are going to change the hand it will need to be done by a competent gunsmith to get the timing correct. The best thing you can do for trigger pull is to put a Wolf spring kit in it. These come with a couple of different rebound springs and a different mainspring and you use the combo that works the best.
Since I have always had access to parts I have always clipped a coil or two off my rebound spring and then ground the sides of the main right where it bends. I take enough time that I make sure I have no ignition or trigger return problems. I also polish the sides of the rebound slide and chamfer the edges to reduce drag.
 
I use 14lb rebound springs with great success. The only other thing I do, besides polishing, is to trim the strain screw, a bit at a time, to lower the trigger pull. Take a bit and try, repeat as needed.

Bob
 
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