Red Dot on a R8 or TRR8 ??

[Joefan1968]

I'm curious about this because I see a few R8 revolvers with scopes...plus I planned to mount one too...I'm interested if anyone with a scoped R8 has had issues.

 

[Transamconvert]

While I do not have an optic on my TRR8, I totally agree with Lou_the_welder

I just recently starting putting the RITON MPRD2 RED DOT mini sight on my firearms. This one on my Model 617 is mounted with the Tasco Optima 2000 mount for D&T Smith & Wesson revolvers

I have become fond of this optic and now have a total of 6 of them on various firearms including my MP5/357. One is going on a P220 next.

What's the part number or link to that Tasco mount? I really like that setup.
Will it work on any S&W with an adjustable sight that screws on or does it need to be the ones with two extra screws through the top strap?

 

[Lou_the_welder]

I'm curious about this because I see a few R8 revolvers with scopes...plus I planned to mount one too...I'm interested if anyone with a scoped R8 has had issues.

Again. If you mount any sight in place of the rear sight you shouldn't have any problems.
I don't think S&W planned on alot of owners to put many rounds through a 327 having anything attached to the shroud. What happens under recoil , is the weight of an attached optic and heavy metal rail loosens the nut in front of the barrel.

The nut/shroud loosened on me twice! Even after the factory tightened the nut twice. Again. It even happened a third time during and thought I could use the "ewk" tool to tighten . It still got loose.
My 327 has about 10,000 rounds in it now. And I happily shoot it without anything attached to the shroud. Attaching anything to the shroud should be avoided- but by all means. You don't have to believe me.

Picture of revolver when the nut loosened: With the nut loosened, you can unscrew with your fingers to see how it all comes together. If it does come loose, I recommend the factory for tightening. They know how much force to put on an aluminum/ scandium frame without cracking it.

Picture of the tool. I still haven't figured out how to tighten it. And don't want to. It's still under factory warranty. And I don't know how much force they use at the factory. Cracking that frame would be expensive.

This is how I choose to shoot it now. The shroud and nut don't give me problems anymore.

I have posted in most of the 327 R8/ TRR8 threads. A simple search will find them going back a few years. My posts are meant as a warning as what may happen with plenty of rounds with this design, on these Revolvers, putting any weight on the shroud.

Lou

 

[Joefan1968]

Is that only for this particular revolver?...because I see lots of Rugers and other revolvers that are scoped...just wondering if the actual gun material makes a difference...

 

[Lou_the_welder]

Is that only for this particular revolver?...because I see lots of Rugers and other revolvers that are scoped...just wondering if the actual gun material makes a difference...

Yes. Only this revolver, when using the supplied factory top rail.

If you mount something in the rear, in place of the rear sight, it should be fine.

 

[Joefan1968]

Your red dot looks good where it is...I might move mine a smidgen forward from there but otherwise that's a good looking setup...

 

[Joefan1968]

Again. If you mount any sight in place of the rear sight you shouldn't have any problems.
I don't think S&W planned on alot of owners to put many rounds through a 327 having anything attached to the shroud. What happens under recoil , is the weight of an attached optic and heavy metal rail loosens the nut in front of the barrel.

The nut/shroud loosened on me twice! Even after the factory tightened the nut twice. Again. It even happened a third time during and thought I could use the "ewk" tool to tighten . It still got loose.
My 327 has about 10,000 rounds in it now. And I happily shoot it without anything attached to the shroud. Attaching anything to the shroud should be avoided- but by all means. You don't have to believe me.

Picture of revolver when the nut loosened: With the nut loosened, you can unscrew with your fingers to see how it all comes together. If it does come loose, I recommend the factory for tightening. They know how much force to put on an aluminum/ scandium frame without cracking it.

Picture of the tool. I still haven't figured out how to tighten it. And don't want to. It's still under factory warranty. And I don't know how much force they use at the factory. Cracking that frame would be expensive.

This is how I choose to shoot it now. The shroud and nut don't give me problems anymore.

I have posted in most of the 327 R8/ TRR8 threads. A simple search will find them going back a few years. My posts are meant as a warning as what may happen with plenty of rounds with this design, on these Revolvers, putting any weight on the shroud.

Lou

Hi Lou,

What is the rail you have on your R8 in that photo...That short rail...I need one of those...

Thanks

 

[Lou_the_welder]

Hi Lou,



What is the rail you have on your R8 in that photo...That short rail...I need one of those...



Thanks

That's a Weigand Combat(weig-a-tinny rail) SWMINIB in black. And they also have a SWMINIS in silver.