?: regarding my new M&P 9mm

[greyhoundrick]

If you were "easy" with the slide installation and just went to the slide lock, it may not rotate the lever, however if you firmly move the slide all the way to the rear the lever will snap up. Can't baby these things.

Thanks for the input!

Well, i tried a couple of times and still can't get it to snap back into the shut or parallel position. Maybe I'm still babying it but the couple of times i tried it i was pretty firm with it.

In looking at the mechanism i can't really see how the take down lever gets contacted to move into the closed or parallel position.

I was reading in the manual and it says on page 26 that you rotate the take down lever upward and in figure 36 it shows a photo of the person doing it with his finger.

Thanks for the help. Ive watched a few more videos and it seems like some of them show it snapping by itself and others with the person moving it with their fingers. Maybe there is a little trick to doing it but i can't figure it out for now.

best,

rick

 

[ginzo]

On mine, sometimes the TDL snaps up, sometimes it doesn't. No biggie. Just rotate it up by hand if it doesn't.

 

[Bkreutz]

Strange, I thought they all did. Every one I've ever owned has. Hmm, learn something every day.

 

[phantom9]

Again, many thanks to all for the expertise and direction. Very important information!

Yes, i will be very careful, take my time and also will remember to be informed before i take my pistol for the first time. The next time i go will be the third time i will have shot this model but my first time without an instructor. Im going to shoot the same way i did in class. Take my time, pay attention, and always keep the gun pointed down range and my finger off the trigger until ready to shoot.

Another question for you:

If i encounter a jam i understand that the best thing to do is to tap, rack and try to shoot again. However, i can't remember exactly what it was, but i remember reading that sometimes doing this can cause major problems.

Would you suggest that if the gun jams that i drop the magazine, rack it and inspect the barrel or best to just let a professional look at it immediately?

Thanks again for helping me.

best always,

rick

It depends on what caused the problem and what exactly you are doing when the problem happens. If you pull the trigger and nothing happens, and you are at the range. Just keep it pointed down range for about 20-30 seconds. I had a really good instructor and he basically told me to point it downrange but if you are in a hurry (i.e. self defense) you *can* eject..9mm is just like a fire cracker. basically if you have the opportunity to wait a bit, then do it, otherwise eject and keep going with what you are doing.

If the malfunction is not a fail to fire round, tap-rack-reassess is a good rule to follow. Again, if you are at the range and have the time, you can take more time to fully understand the situation but in a true self-defense scenario where you won't have the time to fully understand the issue, tap-rack-reassess is the way to go. If tap-rack-reassess doesn't work then you should eject, rack, make sure chamber is clear and then see if all is well.

Again, in a self-defense situation, it is all about saving time and saving your life.

 

[Rastoff]

If i encounter a jam i understand that the best thing to do is...

First a little terminology:

• Malfunction- This is when the gun doesn't fire, but can be made to fire by the shooter with a little manipulation.
• Jam- This is a broken gun. Something has gone wrong and it cannot be fixed on the spot and may need a gunsmith.
• Failure to Fire- The gun is working properly, but the cartridge failed to go bang.

Each of these has different actions necessary to resolve the issue safely. For a jam, the shooting day is probably over and you'll need to seek help.

There are three basic types of malfunctions:

• Type I- The gun made a click when the trigger was pulled, but no bang. Keep the muzzle pointed down range. Wait a short period. Remove the magazine and then rack the slide. Inspect the cartridge to see what happened.
• Type II- After an initial shot, the trigger won't move. Look at the gun and you'll see brass stuck in the ejection port. Sometimes this is called a "stove pipe" malfunction. Tip the gun so the ejection port is facing down and rack the slide.
• Type III- After an initial shot, the trigger won't move. Look at the gun and you'll see that the previous round has not been extracted and the next round tried to feed behind it. With the muzzle pointed down range, lock the slide back, remove the magazine (this may require a little force), rack the slide a few times to see if the spent casing can be ejected. If it won't come out, this becomes a jam and needs further work.

There are also three types of cartridge malfunctions:

• Misfire- For whatever reason, the cartridge didn't fire. Could be an issue with the primer. Most of the time, these will fire on the second try.
• Hangfire- This is when the gun tries to fire the cartridge, but for some reason there is a delay before it goes off. This is why it is imperative to keep the muzzle pointed down range for a time. You never know when a misfire is a hangfire waiting to go off.
• Squib- This is from an under charged or no charge cartridge. The primer goes off and has just enough energy to push the bullet into the barrel, but not out. If you fire another round behind this one, the barrel will be damaged and could rupture. The squib is indicated by a bang that is not as loud and recoil that is much softer than normal.

Note that when the slide moves forward the bushing tightens around the end of the barrel and holds it steady.

The M&P has no bushing. If you look at the barrel with the slide closed, you'll see there is a gap around the barrel. It doesn't go all the way around, but there is a gap none the less. The lock up of this type of gun is at the lug and chamber. I'm not saying where the muzzle contacts the slide isn't part of the lock up, it's just not the main part and there is no bushing like there is in a 1911.

 

[ginzo]

You are the MASTER!!!! More notes for my S&W folder!

 

[Bushmonkey9]

I'd read the manual before operating it for any new user. and take classes.

 

[MSG Glenn]

Your best bet & only solution is to read the owner's manual for cleaning & lubing instructions. There are 7 points that need a drop of lube - each of the rails, the trigger bar, near the top of the barrel & near the back of the barrel. One drop at each location. This should be done after the pistol is thoroughly cleaned of factory gunk.

I went the extra mile when I got my M&P40C - I alcohol cleaned it, lubed it as per instructions, worked the slide & trigger many times, wiped excess lube away & relubed it slightly. Once the pistol is fired for maybe 100 rounds I cleaned & relubed. Once everything is broken in I've found that it only takes a small amount of Break Free CLP. Anything more will just collect gunpowder residue & be counterproductive. Some lubes hold more residue & require more cleaning but some have shot a thousand rounds through their pistol before cleaning. Since I'm a retired Army First Sergeant that will never do, lol.