reloading 357 with 38 dies

[kornax]

hi folks,

i am relatively new to reloading, but i have done probably about 750-1000 rounds now of varying caliber and had success.

I have a question i thought i would ask here:

I bought 38 special lee dies (4 piece), that state they can reload 357. And i have done this as well with 44 special and 44 magnum, without issue. I am finally getting to reloading some 357, and it is my first time using the 38 dies.

My process is:

-Clean casings (with used primers still in)
-inspect all casings
-Carbide Sizing and decapper
-Clean primer pocket (with tool)
-Expanding die
-re-prime
-powder
-bullet seat die

I am early in the process and am having issues with the carbide sizing and decapper. I have had a tough primer in the past here and there, and had to reset the pin that knocks out the primers. But this time, I am about 8 casings in and i have had to reset the pin 5 times. Is this typical? I have never had such trouble removing primers. For a moment i thought maybe it was just chance after the first 2 did that. and each time i have reset the pin, i have tightened the decapper clamp pretty hard.

Just wondering if anyone else has had this experience or any advice to offer. Maybe i just need to stick it out and it will get better?

Thanks!

 

[arjay]

I'm guessing they are Lee dies? If so,make sure the pin is centered in the primer hole and really tighten it as tight as you can get it

 

[DGinVT]

Don't forget that you have to adjust your dies down about a 1/10 of an as the 38 special case is that much shorter than the magnum case

 

[kornax]

They are Lee dies. I will tighten more! I just didn't want to get going too rough as to strip it or something. Wondered if maybe it was a common issue with 357 that i might just not have read about yet. Still learning.

Thanks for the reply!

 

[kornax]

Don't forget that you have to adjust your dies down about a 1/10 of an as the 38 special case is that much shorter than the magnum case

This i am prepared for. I had to do this with the 44 dies as well when i did magnum, but that is only referenced for the expanding die and the seating die. It does not mention that for the resizing and decapping die. Is it necessary on that die as well?

Thanks for the reply!

 

[tomf52]

Early in my reloading career I have had the same experience as you describe with decapping pin. Final solution - Tighten that #$%^& as much as you can and then tighten it some more. Haven't had an issue since.

 

[arjay]

They are Lee dies. I will tighten more! I just didn't want to get going too rough as to strip it or something. Wondered if maybe it was a common issue with 357 that i might just not have read about yet. Still learning.



Thanks for the reply!

It was either my 38/357 or 44/44 mag dies that were doing the same thing until I really muscled em lol

 

[Lasor1]

Hey there I would suggest maybe a different recapping die if your still haven problems with the lee set. Like others say make sure the decapping pin is centered. I don't have much experience with lee dies but I can tell you rcbs and hornady custom grade dies you set it and forget it with them. No going back re tightening all the time. I have heard good things about lee dies but haven't used any just my experience with other brands. Also you can buy just a universal heavy duty de capping die. Hope you get it working good

 

[RalphK22]

What brand brass are they? I had Speer 357 Sig (I know you are loading 357 mag but....) that caused me problems when using a RCBS .40 die to size and de-prime. I determined the flash holes were smaller than other brands. Just a thought.

 

[e3mrk]

Lee decapping Dies are made to slip to prevent breaking the pin.
I think You would be hard pressed to break it tho because I am guilty of helping mine along with a hammer if the Pin wont remove the primer without slipping up.

 

[mikld]

If you decapping pin slips excessively, remove the stem, de-grease with brake clean (or acetone, lacquer thinner, or other aggressive de-greaser). Also de-grease the collet. Reassemble and tighten the collet pretty tight. But be aware if the stem doesn't slip there is a chance the pin will break if a solid item is struck during decapping (off center pin or flash hole, or a Berdan primed case mistakenly slipped through). I've found a "happy medium" for how tight to tighten my Lee die's decapping stems...

 

[lebomm]

I had the same problem w/Lee dies. My solution was to buy an RCBS carbide sizer/decapper and chuck the Lee. I have found Lee dies to be unnecessarily labor-intensive (they do work, but ya gotta fiddle with 'em continually), and now stick to RCBS, Lyman, Hornady in that order.

Larry

 

[ontargetagain]

Looking at your process flow, make sure to 'crimp' after seating bullet
Karl

 

[rwsmith]

I'm hearing the other side of it....

I complained about Lee dies a ways back and most people said they never give trouble. Well, that's true, IF you know the differences between Lee and the other makes of dies. I had a fit with the decapping pin and in the process of tightening it the rubber o-ring that I didn't know was there frustrated the fool out of me. It was my mistake to assume they were the same as other makes and I should have read the instructions more carefully. Lee dies are fine if you know how to use them right. I've got a 7.7 Japanese set that works great.

Oh, they make a spacing ring that you put under your resizing die to raise it the right amount to do .357 magnum cases.

 

[Nevada Ed]

I have a 38 spl. die that has a large "Hard washer" from work
from a 7/8" bolt, that I used while in the field as a Union Ironworker.

It works but I finally got a real .357 Magnum die so that the
full size die would work on my high pressure loads in the long cases.

We don't all shoot 42,00 CUP loads......

 

[Fishslayer]

I don't bother with cleaning primer pockets on pistol ammo but I'm not shooting bullseye matches.

Not necessary with carbide dies but I've found a light spritz of Hornady One Shot lube makes life easier when sizing.

Watch... somebody is STILL gonna jump in with "You don't need lube with carbide dies."

If you don't already have 'em go ahead & buy a few combo wrenches of the proper size. Adjustable wrenches will just make for frustration.

 

[OKFC05]

This i am prepared for. I had to do this with the 44 dies as well when i did magnum, but that is only referenced for the expanding die and the seating die. It does not mention that for the resizing and decapping die. Is it necessary on that die as well?

Thanks for the reply!

No, the sizer /decapper die does NOT move when switching from .38 to .357, because the HEAD of both cases is in exactly the same place in the shell holder, and you need to size all the way down. The other dies move up 1/8" because they operate on the MOUTH of the cases, and a .357 case is 1/8" longer than a .38 cases. My RCBS dies came with a precision 1/8" washer to raise the die without fiddling with the adjustment.

 

[BC38]

If you decapping pin slips excessively, remove the stem, de-grease with brake clean (or acetone, lacquer thinner, or other aggressive de-greaser). Also de-grease the collet. Reassemble and tighten the collet pretty tight. But be aware if the stem doesn't slip there is a chance the pin will break if a solid item is struck during decapping (off center pin or flash hole, or a Berdan primed case mistakenly slipped through). I've found a "happy medium" for how tight to tighten my Lee die's decapping stems...

^^ Ditto this ^^

The ability of the decapping pin to slip allows it to act as a "fuse" - it slips rather than breaking. Not a bad thing IMO.

 

[Qc Pistolero]

I'm guessing they are Lee dies? If so,make sure the pin is centered in the primer hole and really tighten it as tight as you can get it

I'd say just like Arjay!

 

[Peak53]

... slightly off subject but I bought a separate set of Lee dies for 357. A small investment to not have to readjust from 38 to 357. And yes, the decapping pin needs a gorilla touch to keep from slipping.