Removing cylinder J frame

How to lube?

So, if I don't remove cylinder, then how do you lube the cylinder rod? Also, how to lube internals on centennial without removing side plate?
 
So, if I don't remove cylinder, then how do you lube the cylinder rod? Also, how to lube internals on centennial without removing side plate?
I believe the suggestion is that lubrication is seldom, if ever needed.

I cut my handgun teeth on semi-automatic pistols. I'll bet you did too. As a result of that early gun experience, my initial approach to my first revolver included carefully cleaning and lubing the internals. Sadly, all that got me was a tendency for the edges of the side plate to weep lubricant during firing and, in one memorable session, a mangled Apex firing pin spring that caused light strikes when some excess lubricant caused some kind of a problem in the firing pin channel. :o

I am reformed now. There is practically no lubricant under the side plate except tiny amounts on the pivot pins for the hammer and a little grease on rebound spring and slide, as well as the main spring. Even that may be overkill, but it doesn't seem to cause any harm.

The cylinder rod does occasionally receive a small drop of WeaponShield applied without dis-assembly, as does the yoke pivot. I'm not sure it is really necessary. But, it doesn't seem to hurt anything.

I should add that our J-frames are now wonderfully smooth and reliable. The small amount of cleaning kit usually taken to the range fits in the hollow handle of the short bore cleaning rod used to pass a brush through the barrel and charging holes before I put the revolver back in my pocket after a range session.

Life is good! :D

Oh, and I still obsess a bit while cleaning semi-automatic pistols that make up the rest of our small stable of hand guns, to good effect, I believe. ;)
 
So, if I don't remove cylinder, then how do you lube the cylinder rod? Also, how to lube internals on centennial without removing side plate?

Cylinder rod, AKA extractor rod -
I agree the answer, generally, is don't lube it, hardly at all. Open the cylinder like you're reloading. Push on the muzzle end of the extractor rod as if you're extracting spent shells. Now the rod is exposed on the rear of the cylinder. CLEAN that area under the star and on the rear face of the cylinder. Little bits of powder, bug poo and dirt tend to find their way there. If it's oily, those bits tend to stay there. I think the rod needs a tiny bit of lubrication as it's a pretty tight fit. I use my bare fingers after handling a bottle of gun oil or after lubing some other part of the gun. If I have a little oil "weeping" out of the side plate or onto the trigger or hammer, I clean up that oil with fingers, patch, Q-tip or whatever, then use THAT tiny bit of oil to lube the extractor rod. A drop of oil on that rod is too much, IMO.

There are two styles of extractor rods. One has a square channel milled into the rod to align it with the cylinder. The other, newer, has a flat spot milled onto the side of the rod. The older, square notch, style is probably more positive in it's alignment, but it's tolerances are tighter and so may require a bit more attention to lubrication than the newer D shaped rods.

IF you operate the extractor rod with the cylinder and the yoke removed, it is not well supported. It will tend to bind and feel rough and sticky. It may cause you to think "I need a lot of lube in there". But put the thing back together and it will all be aligned and move a lot smoother. It's not the oil doing the smoothing, it's the alignment.


Side plates and internals -
There's really only three "bearing" points under the side plate that may require lubrication. One is the trigger, it has a pin through it that rides in a bearing boss. Two is the hammer, it has the same kind of pin and boss bearing surfaces. Three is the rebound slide, behind the trigger. The Rebound Slide is a comparitively large chunk of metal that rides on the relatively rough surface of the inside of the gun.

All three of those bearing points could be lubed without removing the side plate by simply spraying or dripping a very small amount of lube into any of the openings around the hammer or trigger. Then dry fire the thing in several positions (firing position, inverted, barrel up/down etc) to help move the oil around. Oil will seep out onto the trigger and hammer as you do that. Wipe it off, and as suggested above, use that excess oil to lube elsewhere on the gun.

I think that no matter how little oil you put on a revolver, it'll actually be too much. Some will weep, some will splatter when you fire it. If you live in the desert as we do, I think that's more problematic than if we lived in Antarctica or Portland or the Florida Keys. Haboobs will drive abrasive dust into everything and the sand will stick to any oily surface. If we lived in California it wouldn't be a problem. They've passed a law making dust storms illegal. And another law probably makes gun oil illegal so it's not a problem over there.


Sgt Lumpy
 
i properly clean my guns once a year, the rest of the time they are just wiped down, i waxed them so any residue wipes off easily. if i see leading ill scrub it out but normally theres no issue. i replaced a transfer bar on a revolver that had about 4-5000 rnds through without ever having been apart it was still pretty clean in there even after burning a pound of bullseye through it. (usually use w231).still lubed and nowhere close to being fouled .most of my guns have never been apart. i had a 1911 that had to be cleaned every 250 rounds, had to be wet with oil just to work properly ...thats too high maintenance for me. traded it for a winchester 97 and a fist full of cash. down to only one bottom feeder a s&w 22 a-1 if it asks me to oil it- its gone . lol . ive a growing collection of single and double action revolvers that see things my way
 
So, if I don't remove cylinder, then how do you lube the cylinder rod? Also, how to lube internals on centennial without removing side plate?

Not everything needs your attention.

I don't mess with the internals of a revolver. I've paid cut rate prices on revolvers whose previous owners have tried to 'clean'.

I have a mid 1950's centennial that works great with my regimen of neglect.

I've seen many good revolvers that have been screwed up by over- aggressive owner maintenance.

If you've got a set of screwdrivers you're dying to use, take up carpentry: they're making lots of wood. It's cheap and when you screw it up, it's still good for kindling.

Of course it's your revolver, you can do what you want: just don't think its necessary or helpful.

Just my opinion, of course.
 
If you've got a set of screwdrivers you're dying to use, take up carpentry: they're making lots of wood. It's cheap and when you screw it up, it's still good for kindling.

Of course it's your revolver, you can do what you want: just don't think its necessary or helpful.

Just my opinion, of course.


Everyone has their idea of the proper way to clean their guns. You clean yours your way and I'll clean mine my way. You're right there. There's just no call to be unsociable about it.
 
Some might have an issue with the way I clean Revolvers but I do remove the cylinder from a Revolver every time I clean it. My feeling is that it does less damage to remove the one measly screw than the constant pushing/pulling with the cylinder left in place on the gun when using a cleaning rod, brush & patches. I also like to clean out the powder residue inside the cylinder where the ER moves by filling it with solvent (Rig #2 Oil), working it a few times and dumping it out until all residue is removed. Once or twice is all that is required.

The cylinder position does not change when reinstalled and I have never had any issues over the 30+ years I've been doing it this way. It also is a heck of a lot easier to clean and a more thorough job can be done with it taken off the Revolver.

OK - so I am also a little OCD :)
 
I find it easier to clean the chambers with the cylinder off, plus I just like tinkering with my guns. I've had the sideplate off all of them at least nce, most of them have been off repeatedly. Doesn't hurt a thing. But if you're one of them people who calls a screwdriver "the twisty thing" and a hammer "the pounding thing", by all means leave those cylinders & sideplates on.
 
I find it easier to clean the chambers with the cylinder off, plus I just like tinkering with my guns. I've had the sideplate off all of them at least nce, most of them have been off repeatedly. Doesn't hurt a thing. But if you're one of them people who calls a screwdriver "the twisty thing" and a hammer "the pounding thing", by all means leave those cylinders & sideplates on.

Yea, poundy thing and twisty thing.

Enjoy your tools and you revolvers ! They are yours.

Just don't expect me to be as confident in your 'tool' skills as you are.

I'm sure you are very skillful. I'm sure I would have no issue with your work.

I'm also sure I'll look to see, and be pretty critical of anything I detect.

Nothing personal: lots of times I'm not a proud of home gunsmithing as a buyer as is the seller.

Beauty is in the eye of the beholder

Almost certainly , I won't have as high opinion of your work as you do: just nature!
 
In the last 41 years I have never been without at least one S&W revolver and most time's at least two. My first was a Model 19 for duty carry and my second was a Model 36 for off duty and back-up. I've carried using every conceivable method known to man. I was taught if it get's fired, it get's cleaned. But, I have never, never ever had an overwhelming desire to remove a cylinder. My cleaning method's are between me and my weapons, didn't ever kiss and tell so don't think I will start now. To me guns and women are very similar, don't treat one right and you are going to get hurt.
 
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