Removing Nails

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Got a stock for free to practice repairs on, a garand. There is a prior repair that involves to small nails in the neck of the pistol grip. The nails are small and deep in the wood. I am not sure the bet way to get them out. they are not going to be pried up without damaging the wood. Should I drill out a hole next to them to get the leverage to pull them out, or does someone have a trick they could share?

Thanks!
 
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Tap them in with a small punch so that the heads are buried a bit. Take some similar wood of about the same color and make a bunch of wood dust by sanding it over a piece of paper. Use a belt sander and heavy grit paper if you have one. Get some thin super glue. There are different thickness of super glue. A drop of glue in each hole then rub in some wood dust, repeat. Built up till there is a slight bump over hole. Sand down with say 220 grit. More glue and dust might be needed, but usually just a small drop of glue and a little sanding will fill any small left over spots. Refinish area. Might look like tiny knots or dark spots.

I once did this to a Ruger 77 stock that had taken about 18 pieces of about 6 shot. You had to look to find the spots after I was done. . Luckily none of the pellets hit any checkering.
 
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I go with steelslayer. Considering the age of the rifle the wood had to be very dried out and hardened. The suggested method works. I did it recently I. A few holes from nails loosening in my red oak floors. I sank a nail, took some sanding dust, tinted it with stain, and ten mixed it with very thin and clear super glue. Result:looks great.
 
Steelslaver is right on! The Military used pins to repair stocks all the time in the Field and that was an accepted method back in the day. If the Stock is genuine US Military I'd leave it as you got it. Sinking the pins slightly deeper and filling the hole as he describes is the way to go if the sight of the pins bothers you. The only difference in what I do is I use wood glue instead of Superglue. You can get the wood dust from an inconspicuous area inside the stock.

That said, if this is just a "play stock" and you don't intend on using it for a real firearm, then practice what ever you want on it, but I would NOT try to remove the pin as it was put there for a reason and will compromise the integrity of the wood.

I have used this method more than a few times to repair antique guns. When I am done with the repair you would never even know it was done. I am proactive about this, especially on older Shotguns with minor cracks. The time to do the repair is BEFORE it cracks in half! After counter sinking the pins and filling the hole it looks like just a natural part of the wood. The Military was not interested in cosmetics - just in function and durability.
 
It is broke, badly, and I have to remove the nails to fix the other cracks. Also, eventually the nails will rust, that's why we should use brass nails and brass rods when repairing wood stocks.
 
If you absolutely must get them out the smallest hole possible right beside them may get them so the can be wiggled out. Only reason I can see to remove them is if they will not allow you to correctly align the breaks. Lots of good clamps can move stuff and hold it for pins/rods to be inserted and glued. I wouldn't worry about rust if you can completely seal the steel inside the wood. Steel needs oxygen to rust. No air no rust.
 
Arsenal repairs only use brass spiral pins. They usually show on both sides of the break or crack.

Since yours aren't brass it's a bubba repair.

Center punch the ctr of the nail head. Drill the head off of the nail with a drill bit no larger than the nail head.

Drive the rest of the nail with a flat tip punch the same size as the nail or smaller, all the way in past the break. Align the breaks/cracks and glue them properly. Use a clamp to hold the joint closed until glue dries.

It the joint needs reinforcement, buy proper brass spiral stock repair pins. Drive them in below the surface and fill all holes as steelslayer suggests.
 
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