stonebuster
Member
I'm looking at a couple of NIB S&W revolvers that have been sitting in the boxes for 40-45 years. One is Nickle & one blued. How problematic is it to remove this dried oil? I see no signs of rust but can't physically inspect them.
Removing storage oil after 45yrs
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It's just light oil, not cosmoline, so not too difficult to remove. If it's not caked on, then a powder solvent like Hoppe's Number 9 will work. If it's caked on and the lock work is gummed up, the easy way to remove all the old oil would be removing the stocks and submerging in WD-40, Ed's Red, or mineral spirits.
dfariswheel
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A simple method is to apply a coat of CLP Breakfree and let it soak overnight.
Next day a gentle rub with patches soaked with CLP will dissolve and remove it.
Next day a gentle rub with patches soaked with CLP will dissolve and remove it.
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On the outside - easy - peasy! Cleaning solvent will take it right off. The inside must be cleaned by taking off the Side-plate and disassembling. If you are knowledgeable and skilled at doing so - it's easy also. If you do not have experience doing this, seek out someone who truly does. It would be a crying shame to mess up a NIB Revolver that is pristine.
After cleaning, lightly lubricate with a trusted and quality gun oil.
After cleaning, lightly lubricate with a trusted and quality gun oil.
AJ
US Veteran
No matter what you do, take the stocks/grips off. This will avoid staining them.
OP
stonebuster
Member
Thanks for the replies and advice. I've no intentions of taking the side plate off if I buy one of these Smiths. I'll leave that to a qualified gunsmith which is not easy to find these days.
Sadly, the days of the qualified S&W service centers located in many cities are gone and the number of really good gunsmiths is growing smaller.
Do not use WD40, whatever amount that gets inside will cause more problems than you might have now. For not removing the side plate, use spray can of Brake & Parts cleaner. Spray directly down into the action (with the hammer back) until junk runs out. Let it sit a day then repeat. After the 2nd, or 3rd day when it should run pretty clear, blow it out with compressed air, then follow by several drops of a CLP such as Break Free. When adding the Break Free, work the action to get it all where it needs to be.
Do not soak the nickel gun in Hoppes #9 You can clean the bore and cylinder with it but no soaking
It is not hard to take off the side plate, Scary the first time,
but there are tons of videos, Just use the correct screw driver so as to not mess up the screws
Spray the inside with gun scrubber or Brake Kleen. Then a few drops of gun oil. Done!
It is not hard to take off the side plate, Scary the first time,
but there are tons of videos, Just use the correct screw driver so as to not mess up the screwsSpray the inside with gun scrubber or Brake Kleen. Then a few drops of gun oil. Done!
NIB for 40 years is a VERY long time! I've handled several revolvers absolutely,,, untouched for decades and in my experience removing the dried lubricants CAN BE very problematic. Example: I received a beautiful blue NIB gun and the yoke had obviously never been opened! It wouldn't move! No wear on the cylinder or ejector, "perfect" condition, and no wear at the hinge. The cylinder was also "stuck" to the yoke from never being touched or rotated, I couldn't move it with finger pressure.
The tolerances of the cylinder on the yoke and the tolerances of the yoke in frame on THESE OLD REVOLVERS is about zero. The bluing was never worn off these surfaces from use and the old lubricants can form a very thin but very strong bond between the parts.
Patience is your only ally, acetone is your friend. The surfaces mentioned above are only accessible by disassembly or the CHANCE of your choice of solvent melting away the dried lubricant and finding its way through these tight tolerances. Movement causes wear, instead of working the components to "free" them up allow the solvent to work its magic. Patience
max503
Member
Back in the day I lived in insecure trailers and such. Even then, I knew to take care of my S&W's, to protect them from theft.
I used to remove the grips, put the gun in a thick baggie, and douse it with WD-40. Then I'd squeeze out as much air as possible, seal the baggie, and wrap the whole thing into a nice package using newspaper and tape. These wrapped guns would get stored in a safe deposit box at the bank.
Some of my guns stayed that way for years. It was never a problem to clean off the thickened WD-40, and that stuff did a fine job of protecting the metal. It cleaned right off with any solvent and a brush.
A lot of the WD-40 hate is unfounded internet blather if you ask me.
I used to remove the grips, put the gun in a thick baggie, and douse it with WD-40. Then I'd squeeze out as much air as possible, seal the baggie, and wrap the whole thing into a nice package using newspaper and tape. These wrapped guns would get stored in a safe deposit box at the bank.
Some of my guns stayed that way for years. It was never a problem to clean off the thickened WD-40, and that stuff did a fine job of protecting the metal. It cleaned right off with any solvent and a brush.
A lot of the WD-40 hate is unfounded internet blather if you ask me.
max503
Member
I don't see an issue. If something is "glued" together with dried protectant, you merely wet it with solvent, let sit, then gently coax it apart. It's the nature of things.
handejector
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I've probably handled as many "gummies" as anybody.
MUCH improvement can be accomplished by soaking in Ed's Red. Make it without the alternate lanolin formula.
CLICK: Ed's Red Formula
For years, I have used a large cheap aluminum baking pan with a clear plastic cover. I put heavy paper shop towels in the bottom of the pan to help protect from any grit, put a good bit of solvent in the pan, and "paint" the gun every day or two with a cheap 1-1/2" paint brush. I use the brush to drip loads into every hole I can find.
I recently bought glass baking dishes with heavy, tight plastic covers to prevent evaporation of the three volatile components.
Soak it and re-paint it once or twice a day. Do it till all gumminess is gone.
Then, I use an air compressor over a very large trash can lined with waste cardboard to blow it all out. I have a very effective dryer in the air line to remove all moisture. You can use canned air if you don't have a compressor.
Edited to add:
DANGER---
Ed's Red DISSOLVES PAINT and PLASTIC!!!
DO NOT Soak things like Red Ramps and White Outline Sights!
Ed's Red is flammable.
Don't breathe fumes.
Don't breathe the 'mist' created when blowing off.
Don't drink it.
Don't soak your hands in it.
Don't wipe it on your face.
MUCH improvement can be accomplished by soaking in Ed's Red. Make it without the alternate lanolin formula.
CLICK: Ed's Red Formula
For years, I have used a large cheap aluminum baking pan with a clear plastic cover. I put heavy paper shop towels in the bottom of the pan to help protect from any grit, put a good bit of solvent in the pan, and "paint" the gun every day or two with a cheap 1-1/2" paint brush. I use the brush to drip loads into every hole I can find.
I recently bought glass baking dishes with heavy, tight plastic covers to prevent evaporation of the three volatile components.
Soak it and re-paint it once or twice a day. Do it till all gumminess is gone.
Then, I use an air compressor over a very large trash can lined with waste cardboard to blow it all out. I have a very effective dryer in the air line to remove all moisture. You can use canned air if you don't have a compressor.
Edited to add:
DANGER---
Ed's Red DISSOLVES PAINT and PLASTIC!!!
DO NOT Soak things like Red Ramps and White Outline Sights!
Ed's Red is flammable.
Don't breathe fumes.
Don't breathe the 'mist' created when blowing off.
Don't drink it.
Don't soak your hands in it.
Don't wipe it on your face.
Last edited:
Ed's Red is your friend. I've got a gallon can in the garage
with just the solvents (mineral spirits and acetone) I use
for cleaning things.
I've got another quart can with the whole formula for gun
maintenance. Highly recommended.
with just the solvents (mineral spirits and acetone) I use
for cleaning things.
I've got another quart can with the whole formula for gun
maintenance. Highly recommended.
Choke-n-Carb Cleaner is designed to remove exactly what you describe. Fuel with petroleum additives that constantly evaporate in a carburetor leaving a varnish which is much more tenacious than dried light oil and it simply disappears in seconds using the aerosol leaving no residue. Use it outside, with the sideplate and stocks off, spray liberally, letting it run off freely. Let sit for 30 seconds, then spray again and either blow it out with compressed air or let it dry. You end up with all metal parts stripped of oils and ready to re-lube.
Last edited:
handejector
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WARNING added to my post above!
OP
stonebuster
Member
The GB bidding for that NIB Model 10 went up to @$1100. Too rich for my blood. Seller had several NIB revolvers that had been sitting in storage since the the gun store went out of business. Nickel19-4 4", Model 36 no dash blue, nickel Model 36. Thanks for the replies.
gwpercle
Member
Simply mix up a batch of of Ed's Red Gun Cleaner / Solvent ...
search the term : Ed's Red Gun Solvent by C. E. "Ed" Harris - recipe ,
and follow the simple 4 ingredient recipe to make the best cleaner you can use on those classic revolvers .
Ed's Red will do no damage to blue or nickel finish .
The 4 ingredients are found in Wally Mart , $20 or so , will make you a gallon of great solvent for anything metal .
It will cut the old hardened oils with no damage .
Tip... Use conventional ATF ...Not Synthetic ATF ... the synthetic stuff will not blend with the other 3 ingredients ,
For cleaning old dried lube ... use the acetone in the mix , you can leave the acetone out ...if you like ... for lessor cleaning projects .
I always add the acetone ... it helps with the cleaning .
Gary
search the term : Ed's Red Gun Solvent by C. E. "Ed" Harris - recipe ,
and follow the simple 4 ingredient recipe to make the best cleaner you can use on those classic revolvers .
Ed's Red will do no damage to blue or nickel finish .
The 4 ingredients are found in Wally Mart , $20 or so , will make you a gallon of great solvent for anything metal .
It will cut the old hardened oils with no damage .
Tip... Use conventional ATF ...Not Synthetic ATF ... the synthetic stuff will not blend with the other 3 ingredients ,
For cleaning old dried lube ... use the acetone in the mix , you can leave the acetone out ...if you like ... for lessor cleaning projects .
I always add the acetone ... it helps with the cleaning .
Gary
Nickel and Hoppe's #9
Just as a head's up, Hoppe's #9 and nickel finishes don't go together. I did a comprehensive search about 20 years ago for cleaners that are safe for nickel. This included manufacturers' recommendations. The only cleaner I found listed as safe for nickel was Break Free CLP. Since it is inexpensive, commonly found, and works, I see no reason to try anything else on nickel guns. I have shared this before and gotten, "Well, my great grandad used Hoppe's #9 and I have too with no problem." Yet. Why risk it?
My great uncle John was a professor at Dartmount in Engineering, and developed prototypes for Winchester. He religiously used Hoppe's #9 as a cleaner and protectant. BUT he had no nickel finished guns. He told a friend that is what to use (not knowing the gun was nickel), and 6 months later the guy came back very upset. His revolver was ruined, with the nickel discolored and flaking off. So it has been known since the 1940s at least that Hoppe's can ruin nickel. I have read other posts where the nickel did not flake, but turned weird colors in patches. The flaking comes from manufacturers that used copper as an under-layer to the final nickel. Hoppe's #9 will wick in and eat the copper, lifting off the nickel. Do whatever makes you happy, but there is a risk using other cleaners on nickel other than CLP. Best wishes, Marc
Just as a head's up, Hoppe's #9 and nickel finishes don't go together. I did a comprehensive search about 20 years ago for cleaners that are safe for nickel. This included manufacturers' recommendations. The only cleaner I found listed as safe for nickel was Break Free CLP. Since it is inexpensive, commonly found, and works, I see no reason to try anything else on nickel guns. I have shared this before and gotten, "Well, my great grandad used Hoppe's #9 and I have too with no problem." Yet. Why risk it?
My great uncle John was a professor at Dartmount in Engineering, and developed prototypes for Winchester. He religiously used Hoppe's #9 as a cleaner and protectant. BUT he had no nickel finished guns. He told a friend that is what to use (not knowing the gun was nickel), and 6 months later the guy came back very upset. His revolver was ruined, with the nickel discolored and flaking off. So it has been known since the 1940s at least that Hoppe's can ruin nickel. I have read other posts where the nickel did not flake, but turned weird colors in patches. The flaking comes from manufacturers that used copper as an under-layer to the final nickel. Hoppe's #9 will wick in and eat the copper, lifting off the nickel. Do whatever makes you happy, but there is a risk using other cleaners on nickel other than CLP. Best wishes, Marc
Also, do not mix Hoppe's #9 with Tetra Lube grease. They combine to make the equivalent of Contact Cement, and that is very hard to scrub off. Additionally, my late dad used "3 in 1" oil on his guns back in the '60s and '70s. That stuff hardens up over time in a miserable way as well.
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