Replacing Sights on M&P’s

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kbm6893

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I've watched a bunch of YouTube videos. Some use a punch and a hammer to move the sights out of the dovetail. Some say sight pusher is a must. Some say Shield slide is thin and can be bent. I'm not sure my local gunsmith wouldn't charge me an arm and a leg. How easy is it to do it? I have a Shield 1.0, a 2.0 Compact in 9MM, and a 2.0 full size .45.
 
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Its a bear. They are put in interference fit with a pusher. I have done some the hard way, but even then you need a good soft face vice that holds the slide and the nerve to drive them out. Check Dawson Precision video.
 
I used a serious borrowed pusher for my Shield 1.0. The amount of torque I applied frightened me. When the rear sight finally moved, there was a loud crack that brought my wife running from the other room. I was certain the slide was toast. :eek:

By the way, I now recommend cut up credit cards to pad the slide and the face of the tool's punching shoe. I damaged the shoe to the point that I felt obliged to replace it before returning the borrowed tool.

Of course, YMMV.
 
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Removing factory installed sights is usually very, very difficult. The factory apparently will not take the time to fit sights, so they just ram them home with some kind of hydraulic pusher, I assume. They are not just tight; they are smashed in there in many cases.

Trying to use a punch and finding out it won't work usually involves damage to the sight, slide and/or tool. Its just not worth even trying IMO.

A sight pusher, a good one, makes all the difference. A cheap one will have the same liabilities as a punch. If you go to a gunsmith, ask if he uses a good pusher. If he doesn't, find another GS.

When you install new sights, you can fit them so they will be secure but can be moved with a punch, but if you already have access to a good pusher, use it.
 
Tried to move my Shield sight with a pusher and then a brass drift. Gave up on the pusher when I decided something was going to break first. Gave up on the drift when it just got smushed against the sight. Kind of ridiculous. There's no reason to have sights in so tight.
 
I changed my M&P 2.0 9 Compact sights to Trijicon Bright and Tough Night Sights a few years ago. I used a MGW Sight Pusher specifically for the M&P. Fortunately the Sights didn't require any fitting they went right in.

I found the pusher on EBay.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
I remember sending my Beretta PX4 slide in to Trijicon years ago and they installed them. Don't remember what it cost or if it was much more expensive than a local guy doing it. And will they allow me to mail in a set of their sights rather than buy from them? I'm sure I can get them cheaper somewhere else. My local guy is a good guy and I know he's been to gunsmithing school, but who knows what that means. He showed me a Model 64 with a three inch barrel that started life as a 4". It has night sights installed and he did other mods that I can't remember, so I know he's competent. I just don't know if he would honor any damage that might occur if installing them is a pain. It's a shame. Quite a few YouTube videos showing it done and it seemed easy enough. Hate to pay for it but would really hate to screw up a gun. Buying a sight tool seems stupid only because the cost of the tool would probably be more than having someone do it for me and it's not like I'm gonna install a bunch of night sights to warrant it. Not to mention some are specific to the gun.
 
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I did this on my Springfield. I bought an inexpensive (but reasonably solid) sight pusher on Amazon and installed the TruGlo TFX Pro sights on my XDm-40. It worked quite well though it was slow going. The toughest part was pushing the original sights out. They were extremely tight. I wound up removing the slide, putting a little penetrating oil on the sights and leaving it in the freezer overnight then pushing the sights out immediately after taking it out of the freezer. When installing the new sights, I used a slight amount of blue Loctite because the blue is generally removable where the red is intended to be permanent. I used a cheap laser bore sight from Amazon and it's right on. The sight pusher is mostly aluminum, so it won't mar the slide.

But after doing that, I'm glad that my PM40 and my Performance Center Shield both came with Tritium sights from the factory.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A5000 using Tapatalk
 
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I bought a tool from Jennings Machine and Tool when I replaced the sights on my M&P 2.0 compact with a set of XS big dots. Even with a tool getting the factory sights off was a struggle, particularly the front sight. If you are going to replace the sights on all three of your guns I would recommend buying a tool and doing it yourself. If you are only going to change the sights on one it might be less expensive and easier to have a gunsmith do it.

The tool I have is not perfect but got the job done. It clamps around the slide and it was hard to get the slide to stay straight in the tool when applying enough force to the jackscrew pushing factory sights out. It would have worked betting on a slide with flat sides like a Glock or with sights that were not as tight as the factory S&W sights.

With the Big Dot sights I tend to string shots vertically and have thought about replacing them. Not wanting to hassle with changing them is one reason I have not. A week ago the front sight failed so I now have no choice. I am hoping that getting the defective sight out will be easier than getting the factory one off.

I was going to look at other sights but am going to see if I can get used to the Big Dots since I only have to replace the front sight and XS sent me a new front sight under warranty. I am still not sure the Big Dots are the right sights for me but XS really does have a no BS warranty. I emailed them on Sunday, got a reply Monday morning asking for my address and a photo of the defective sight, and the replacement was in my mailbox on Thursday.
 
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Trijicon says the install for free if you buy from them. But I can get the sights cheaper somewhere else. If I buy them somewhere else than they charge $32. So add the $32 plus whatever it costs to ship the slide. My local guy said he'd install them free, but I don't know enough about his ability to make a good call in that. Would certainly save me money.
 
I changed mine and the pusher tool left some marks on the sight. It took some force, so never push on the blade. The marks were my fault, I should have used more precaution.

Just be aware, I believe the sights go in/out a certain way. I did have to double check. Perhaps it was the Kahr, not sure.

Then take it to the range and make sure it's good. Have someone else shoot too if possible. I did make adjustments with the pusher tool, not a punch.

I don't mind the marks, the function is more important to me than the looks, it's a work gun, not a museum's piece. But I could never charge anyone for it since it left marks.

Depending on if I need the gun right now or not I'd send in the slide to a professional shop. They have more experience than me.
 
kbm6893 said:
Trijicon says the install for free if you buy from them. But I can get the sights cheaper somewhere else. If I buy them somewhere else than they charge $32. So add the $32 plus whatever it costs to ship the slide. My local guy said he'd install them free, but I don't know enough about his ability to make a good call in that. Would certainly save me money.
Click to expand...

I did my own because I'm generally a DIY guy. I was raised in a house where you saved money by doing as much as you could yourself and acquiring the necessary tools only as you needed them. However, $32 seems very reasonable to me. Unless I'm mistaken, you typically send in only your slide (not the entire firearm) for this. When you get it back you'll still need to sight it in. This could require the use of a bore sight laser and a sight pusher to get it right (it did for mine). Just something to consider.
 
ROB94045 said:
I did my own because I'm generally a DIY guy. I was raised in a house where you saved money by doing as much as you could yourself and acquiring the necessary tools only as you needed them. However, $32 seems very reasonable to me. Unless I'm mistaken, you typically send in only your slide (not the entire firearm) for this. When you get it back you'll still need to sight it in. This could require the use of a bore sight laser and a sight pusher to get it right (it did for mine). Just something to consider.
Click to expand...

Adjusting it after the sights were put in would be easier because they wouldn't be in as tight as the factory, right?
 
Had a certified gunsmith install the sights along with an Apex striker block for $35 (labor) and laser bore sighted gun. He used a professional grade pusher tool and a calipers. No marks, dings or scratches. Dropped the slide off and got it back same day.
 
OP, I am with you.

Every pistol I own should be upgraded from factory sights, but am hesitant due to a similar dilemma-- not wanting to shell out for the sight tool, not trusting anyone reputable enough to do it, and not much confidence tapping away to punch out factory installed sights..

I am confident with the right pusher it shouldn't be too difficult, but the "quality" ones run $300+. As Dave Lively stated, if you are going to do several, investment in a sight pusher might be worth it.

JJEH said:
Just be aware, I believe the sights go in/out a certain way. I did have to double check. Perhaps it was the Kahr, not sure.
Click to expand...

Gross generalization, but on several platforms have seen instructions stating sights should be removed towards the same side as the ejection port.. do your homework on this one
 
I wanted to replace front sights and install Apex triggers on 3 version M&Ps. The Dawson Precision video suggested using a brass punch instead of a site pusher. I made a punch from 3/8 brass rod for a larger surface area. Not difficult, but did require forceful hammering.

Will
 
FieldSupply has Winchester brass punch set for $17.. might but worth a shot, brass the least destructive avenue if you go that route

Did DP have any information on direction to drift them out, Will2?
 
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I bent two of the largest brass punches from sets I had and marred the factory sights—without getting them off. The slide was in a leather padded vise. Always drift out left to right from rear perspective. In from right to left.

I hammered a large brass punch into a rectangle the size of the side of the front sight. Penetrating oil. Freezing it. Still would not move.

I bought a generic $75 pusher which I have used to change out 7 different sets of factory S&W sights. Getting them off: hard. Getting new ones on, properly fitted by sanding the bottom a little to get the right press fit: not hard. Never had a replacement sight move, and I've never had a problem removing it if I needed to using the pusher. I believe the replacement sights would move just fine with a big, rectangular brass punch.

I wish I had bought a better pusher as I have had to re-face the pusher bar a couple of times as it deforms when removing the factory sights. Considering how many of these projects I have tackled and how many more I expect to do on various pistols (some as yet not acquired), the amortized cost of a good pusher is worth it to me.

If I was going to change sights on one or two guns, I would bite the proverbial bullet and have a competent local 'smith do it, or send it away. After it's paid and things are right, $35 is not a lot of money to get what you want, IMO.
 
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kbm6893 said:
I've watched a bunch of YouTube videos. Some use a punch and a hammer to move the sights out of the dovetail. Some say sight pusher is a must. Some say Shield slide is thin and can be bent. I'm not sure my local gunsmith wouldn't charge me an arm and a leg. How easy is it to do it? I have a Shield 1.0, a 2.0 Compact in 9MM, and a 2.0 full size .45.
Click to expand...

This is old, but will provide some useful information:
Shield sight change Picture heavy
 
This one is similar to the one I used.
[ame]https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BZ7VYEW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_TXkpDbWQXRSF0[/ame]

It's functional but there are definitely better choices available with many of them being far more affordable than they were when I did this.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A5000 using Tapatalk
 
I watched the Dawson Precision video several times on using a brass punch to remove the front sight before I attempted the removal. It is very clear and describes which direction to remove the sight.

Full disclosure ... I started with my least favorite M&P. I wanted to practice before I worked on my favorite CORE. I used a dremel to form the end of a brass rod into a rectangle, to match the shape of my front sight. The video suggested many small taps with a small hammer... that just didn't work. I used many large hits with a full size hammer.

The CORE front sight was much easier to move. The rear sights on all 3 of my M&Ps were also easier. I suppose they are all different.

I expect the sight tools work just fine. I just used a hammer and punch.
 
Mike said:
I had to adjust the sights on my 3 Shields. I used a heat gun and a flat punch.
Click to expand...
That's interesting. I'd heard that was not uncommon with Shields. When I got mine I thought the front sight might be a RCH off-center and that I would have to adjust it, so I brought my sight pusher to the range in the first trip. But it turned out to be sighted in nicely.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A5000 using Tapatalk
 
One thing to consider concerning use of a punch and hammer: you have to be able to hold the slide in a vise or other device so it is immobile. The device, usually a vise, needs to be mounted to a very sturdy work bench or other fixture. The vise and work bench can frequently far exceed the cost of a good sight pusher.
 
If you do not care about the stock sights, then I would use a steel punch.
I replace mine and I toss the factory sights.

I have a heavy vise that is mounted on a bench with big bolts. I have magnetic rubber vise inserts. I apply penetrating oil and let it sit for about an hour. I put a couple of layers of electrical tape on the punch end (in case of a slip or whatever) and I hit at the base of the front sight (not at the base of the dove tail) and after a few good whacks it will break free and tap out with a few light taps. On the back sight I tap at the ridge of the sight just above the dove tail. The rear breaks free easier in my experience. Make sure you not angling the punch down but perpendicular so the force is pushing out and not down and out.

Going in I have used either a brass or nylon punch and it requires much less effort. I use loctite on the new front site in the groove and on the screw in the rear.

Good video...

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Avy0LknVVO0[/ame]
 
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Be very careful with tritium sights. Using a punch on these sights can lead to broken tubes. A sight pusher is money well spent, or bring to slide to a gunsmith. Alternately, many sight manufacturers will install tritium sights for you for a reasonable fee.
 
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