?'s about how you stop reloading.

[O2BShooting]

No the question is not as dumb as it seems. Probably a better way of putting it is what are your shut down proceedures for when you are reloading?

When I have time to reload I usually only have about an hour and a half at a time. What I've finding out is that between start up and shutdown I only actually get to load for about 30-45 minutes. When I'm done reloading for the day my bench is cleaned off, all powder is back in it's containers, primers are all put away. So when I start up again I've got to get it all back out and ready to go which is eating up a lot of my precious reloading time. I'm looking for tips &/or hints that will help me to maximize my time @ the bench and enable me to get the most rounds produced while I can.

Now this is not for switching calibers, loades or anything like that which I know takes more time and prep. As an example I'm currently set up to load 9mm & all my cases are cleaned. I want to be able to rock and roll w/ the least amount of time lost.

Thanks for any help.
O2B

 

[OKFC05]

I like to have all the primers out of the DIllon, but leave the powder in. The powder measure is clearly labeled with the type and amount of powder. I leave the brass and bullets in the hoppers beside the machine.
I cover the machine.

Pull the cover, double check the caliber and powder, put in the primers and go.

 

[2hawk]

I think you're doing it right. Having to go through the set up again is a little pre-flight, and is a good place to catch any errors before they get serious!

That said:
Coming back to a machine with components in it is fine, IF you are darn sure what they are. If I am sure I can continue a session within a day or so I'll just clear the shell plate, pull the primer rod out and wrap it up. But, I do like to use a post it or masking tape to write the powder type and weight, and also take the primer box and push it down over the primer tube.

I have found that leaving the powder in the measure too long seems to discolor the measure, so I avoid that now. I can only surmise that there's an interaction between the plastic and the powder, so I'd rather not see where that leads.
ymmv

 

[Skip Sackett]

From your post, it sounds like you are doing things in a single stage fashion. Is it possible to move on to a progressive or Lee Classic Cast Turret press?

At that point, you can leave the primers in their respective device and dump powder in about a heartbeat. Getting started again is about the same amount of time.

This will also mean that the 30-45min that you have to actually reload will be much more productive.

With either type of press, you can just stop loading when you finish the last cartridge. It is as simple as that.

In single stage loading, you are going to have to pick your place. Do all of one operation, put your components away. If you are done with priming, don't drag them out when you are putting powder in, or vice a versa.

FWIW

 

[keithherrington]

On my Dillon 1050 I put bullets upside down into the mouths at the powder check stage and the bullet seat stage to protect the case getting anything mixed in with the powder. I remove the bullets before using it again. After putting the bullet in the case mouths I put the cover on it and zip it up. Done. Total time - 5 minutes.

On my single stage press I remove and recase the die and then empty the Redding powder measure. Put the powder container back in the cabinet and I'm done. Total time - 5 minutes.

Keith

 

[GTbob]

This is where a single stage is great. I do one step then the next step, and so on.

Steps:
1. Clean the brass.
2. Sort brass by caliber.
3. Resize and deprime all brass... It is then put into plastic containers by caliber.
4. Prime 500-1000 pieces of brass.
5. Expand necks for final loading.
6. Powder charge and seat bullets in 100 round batches.

Doing it this way I can stop at any time and know where I left off.

 

[venomballistics]

I run out of empty brass then I clear the powder measure to avoid future confusion
most of the grunt work at my bench is at setup.

 

[jubela#4]

I load for 357, 41, 44 and 45 Colt. I have two Dillon SDB's, one set up for small pistol and the other for large pistol. I use two kinds of powder, Unique and 2400. The vast majority of loads use Unique.

If I load rounds using 2400 I dump the left over 2400 back into it's container at the end of the loading session. The remaining primers are left in the machine as I use standard primers for the 2400 loads as well.

The longest amount of time it takes for me to set up to load is if I switch calibers which takes about 5 minutes as I have tool heads for each caliber and it's just amatter of changing heads and putting the powder measure back on.

This system has worked well for me for over 20 years.

 

[folkenheath]

I put everything away too. Powder, primers, bullets all go back in their containers so I never get them mixed up. It doesn't take long to dump the powder in the hopper nad get the bullets back out. I do have to put the primers in the tube but I would have to do that anyway because I usually only put in the amount I plan to load.

It could be very bad to use the wrong powder, or possibly even a magnum primer where it wasn't supposed to be, I don't take any chances. Plus the powder in the container I know won't get contaminated.

 

[Rule3]

I finish what primers I have "loaded up" turn off the light and walk away.

The brass, bullets, one powder on the bench stay. I do take the powder pan off the scale.

 

[papajohn428]

Another good reason to Batch Load. I start with brass that has been tumbled and deprimed. I reprime with a hand tool, which can be done while watching TV if you're attentive to what you're doing. From there, starting at the press with prepped brass, I can load up to 300 rounds an hours on a Lee 3-hole turret press. Just drop powder and seat a bullet. VERY little setup/cleanup time.

 

[hawgleg]

This is where a single stage is great. I do one step then the next step, and so on.

Steps:
1. Clean the brass.
2. Sort brass by caliber.
3. Resize and deprime all brass... It is then put into plastic containers by caliber.
4. Prime 500-1000 pieces of brass.
5. Expand necks for final loading.
6. Powder charge and seat bullets in 100 round batches.

Doing it this way I can stop at any time and know where I left off.

He must have read the same reloading manuals I did.
That's the way I've been doing it since I started.

 

[Steve in Vermont]

He must have read the same reloading manuals I did.
That's the way I've been doing it since I started.

The only thing I might add to this is what works for me. If I find I have a small amount of time I'll complete one phase of the process, such as priming. I have several loading blocks and will then, as an example, put on a Post-It stating "primed/flared ready to load", or "flared, ready to prime". The next time I can simply pick up where I left off. Example: If I don't have time to crimp (I do it in a separate operation) I'll note "needs crimping" on the block and come back later. Primers and powder are always put away. The main thing is don't leave any process 1/2 done and always clearly mark what needs to be done so when you return there's no confusion. In this hobby, if you don't have time to complete something don't start it.

 

[growr]

A small tip I have used for many years is to take the outer jacket of the primers I am using and slide it over the primer tube of my 550 Dillon.
In between sessions I just simply clear the shell plate. So many of my handgun reloads use Unique powder... so that stays in the measure until I change calibers.

Only one powder can is out on the bench and I use an Avery sticky label on the measure of what is in it and how much it is throwing.

I have a number of labels stuck on the wall and simply use one that I have made on my computer so that I can actually READ what the label says....my handwriting can be a challenge even to me and I wrote it!

Might help someone else.......

Randy

 

[chief38]

I will run the primer tube empty by loading cartridges and pour the powder back into the canister, clean the residues from the press and put everything away. I know it is a PITA, but I am the type that likes to reload thousands of rounds in one shot, (usually enough for a year) and then cover the press for a while. Then I'll start early another day and load up a different caliber - again thousands of rounds, clean up and put everything away. I find by doing this I can reload enough ammo in a few days that will last me a year or so. I do reload, but I can honestly it is my least favorite part of the hobby. I would much rather be shooting, gunsmithting or just plain doing something else.

I have friends that love to reload and do a little every few days. That would drive me nuts! I personally do not think it is safe to leave powder and primers in a press while not actively reloading. I am not saying that there is a need to pour the powder back into the canister to go upstairs and eat dinner (assuming you will be back on the press after dinner), but if you are done for the day, I don't think it's a good idea to let the powder and primers stay in the press unattended. With all good intentions, something might come up the next day, and the powder and primers could sit there for who knows how long - not a good thing.

 

[Peter M. Eick]

I pull the primer strip out and pack it up. Dump the powder back into the 1 lb container and then sweep up the work area. I try and make sure it is reasonably clean because it may be a day or a couple of months till I get back to it.

 

[David LaPell]

I put the powder away, put away what I loaded and turn off the light and go upstairs.

 

[Fkimble]

On the 2 550's, I simply finish the cases on the shellholder and walk away. One is set up for 45acp exclusively, the other is for 38 or 357, 2 die heads each dedicated to one caliber. Like someone mentioned earlier, I put the cardboard primer sleeve over the primer tube to remind me whats in the tube. I also use a rubberband around each powder measue to hold a printed "label" to identify the powder in the measure. Labels for my standard loads also has the amount of powder. I have 6 measures, the 2 dillions and 3 others are dedicated to a powder and charge, the other is used for testing when a larger quantity is needed than I want to weigh out by hand.
On the single stage press, I usually do batch work. Cleaned cases get resized. Rifle cases go back to the tumbler to remove the lube, pistol cases go thru the expander die. These are stored in 500 count empty cast bullet boxes. They are then primed and stored til needed. Any of these steps can be "walked away from" without a problem. Powdering is done followed almost immediately by seating the bullets. Oh, I do put a shop towel over the powder scale when it's not in use, and I also turn out the light.

 

[blujax01]

I'm running an XL 650 so my routine may be different than the OP's.

(1) Run the shell plate clear.
(2) This leaves two primers in the overflow bin which I put into the primer flipper tray and put it on the shelf.
(3) Turn off the scales, close the cover and put the bottle of powder I'm using from on top of the case. This way I know what's in the powder drop.
(4) Brush off the machine.
(5) WRITE DOWN THE FORMULA I AM CURRENTLY USING and put it in the bullet tray.
(6) Throw a T-Shirt over the machine.

Just walk away, Renee' ....

 

[BobR1]

550B
To start with I mark a 3" X 5" file card with the Powder and charge weight. I slide this in the powder hopper, against the outside edge where easy to read.
No Confushion about what powder, or charge weight you are using.
You could even take this further by listing the bullets, primers, etc. if you wanted all that information down. Lots of note room on a 3x5 file card.

Like someone else said this card can also be attached with a rubberband to the outside of the powder hopper.

When I stop I do it 2 ways:

1. I run my primer tube empty, then finish loading the cases on the shell plate. This is best if you might be loading a different primer size the next time.

2. I finish the brass on the shell plate.

My reloading room is dark when I turn out the lights.

Bob