S&W 586 no primer strike sometimes

[Combat Auto]

Hi Folks, I have a lovely blued, S&W 586 L-Comp 3" revolvers. Very nice gun, has a small port in front of the sight so even though it is 3", full-power 357M loads are fun to shoot.

My problem is that occasionally, when I pull the trigger (I believe always in DA mode, don't recall it ever happening in SA mode), hammer drops but round doesn't go off. Open the 7 round wheel, I can see even without my reading glasses distinct FP strikes on all the other 6 rounds but not the one which didn't go off. (Now, with no reading glasses at the range, I can't swear there wasn't some sort of light strike, but to my naked eye, the other 6 rounds showed a distinct indent, and the failed round did not)...Later I re-tried that failed round and it did discharge.

I've only shot this gun twice, here is the detailed data:
+Oct 2016, fired 94 rounds, of various factory ammo, I had 3 which did not discharge. Upon retesting these 3 rounds they did go off...I did not record whose factory ammo it was.
+Yesterday, 11/14, fired 46 rounds various-factory, I had 1 which did not discharge, but did on retest. The 1 round was Hornady 158gr.

I'd appreciate any thoughts you Guy's have on what can cause this (I know almost nothing about revolver maintenance and trouble-shooting. This is my only revolver). Is there an adjustment under the stocks? Could excessive lube cause this? Has anyone seen this problem intrinsic to S&W revolvers in-general, or the 586 L-Comp in-particular? Any other thoughts or suggestion's before I call S&W?

Thanks in advance for your help,
C.A.

 

[smithman]

J

Is there a firing pin ding around the charge hole on the back of the cylinder near the chamber that isn't firing? Is it always the same chamber?

Check the mainspring screw in the grip frame to ensure it's snugged up all the way. Make sure your ammo isn't the problem.

 

[JAREDSHS]

Take smithman"s advice and check the strain screw to be tightened ALL the way in .Sometimes the screw will work loose, and sometimes a body thinks that it is an adjustment to be fiddled with. It needs to be fully tight.

 

[Stevens]

Since it is a new unto you, could you have opened the cylinder for some reason and miss inedxed it skipping an unfired round and the hammer dropped on an already fired one?
I'masking 'cause I have done that in the past.
Steve W

 

[Hapworth]

First thing with any light primer strikes (particularly when using quality factory ammo) is to confirm the strain screw is fully seated. It's the screw in the lower half of the front strap under the grips.

The strain screw tensions the hammer spring, which affects the force of hammer drop (and resistance of trigger pull). It can loosen sometimes; also, some folks intentionally and incorrectly loosen it to "tune" trigger pull weight.

It should be fully seated and left alone.

Next order of business is to determine if a particular charge hole (chamber to some) is consistent with the light strike, or if it's occurring irrespective of charge hole. If it's just one in particular, that might be indicative of a carry up or timing issue.

 

[Combat Auto]

Since it is a new unto you, could you have opened the cylinder for some reason and miss inedxed it skipping an unfired round and the hammer dropped on an already fired one?
I'masking 'cause I have done that in the past.
Steve W

Nope, when it happened 2 years ago, I gave the gun the benefit of the doubt and blamed myself, "Hum, maybe I did something wrong". (incorrectly). When I shot it yesterday, I had reviewed my last time shoot notes (which I keep every time I go to the range) and was keeping an eye open this time for the same issue. I was absolutely sure no operating error was involved.

 

[Protocall_Design]

Check for a firing pin ding on the brass next to the primer. Sometimes the cylinder can rotate past to where the chamber is not lined up with the barrel when the hammer falls.

 

[steelslaver]

If there is no strike on the primer at all, I would dry fire the gun a bunch and see if it was

A always rotating the cylinder. Something hanging up the hand or a broken weak hand spring not pressing hand forward to engage ratchet.

B. if during real slow double action does the cylinder always make it to lockup?

Any possibility you are not allowing trigger to fully reset or during recoil milking the trigger a bit after reset. IE. Pressing it a bit and then relaxing it.

Also a weak or damaged spring on the cylinder stop might be coming disengaged during recoil and cylinder is turning a bit.

But, first make sure there is no strike mark on unfired round. If that its more likely the above suggestions.

 

[Combat Auto]

Smithman, Jaradshs, Hapworth, Thanks for those suggestions, I'll look at those first and report back.

 

[Combat Auto]

If there is no strike on the primer at all, I would dry fire the gun a bunch and see if it was


A always rotating the cylinder. Something hanging up the hand or a broken weak hand spring not pressing hand forward to engage ratchet.

B. if during real slow double action does the cylinder always make it to lockup?

Any possibility you are not allowing trigger to fully reset or during recoil milking the trigger a bit after reset. IE. Pressing it a bit and then relaxing it.

Also a weak or damaged spring on the cylinder stop might be coming disengaged during recoil and cylinder is turning a bit.

But, first make sure there is no strike mark on unfired round. If that its more likely the above suggestions.

There was no strike, I'll give the first suggestion a try.

On the DA lock-up, what is the best was to tell if it is locked up? Is it just by looking or a better way?

Thanks,

 

[shocker]

I get light strikes with my new K frame if I stage the trigger in DA. A continuous DA pull? No problem.
I'm using CCI magnum primers which I think are fairly hard.

 

[OttoLoader]

I had a similar problem with a 686-6 manufacture in 2007. Over time about 2 yrs, it started to get light strikes. I sent it in to S&W warranty.
S&W replaced the frame mounted firing pin and made sure that the action was ok.
No springs or anything was loose or apparent, but got enough light strikes with all different factory ammo.
S&W fixed it and it has been problem free ever since.

 

[Dicktrader]

Is it a no dash 586 or a dash one? If I am correct there was a recall on the early 586's for just that reason. Would be marked with an "M" if repaired.

 

[Combat Auto]

Is it a no dash 586 or a dash one? If I am correct there was a recall on the early 586's for just that reason. Would be marked with an "M" if repaired.

Not sure what you mean, where would the dash appear? On the box, there is a label on the top saying it is a 586L-Comp. And under "Model" is says "586-7". Is the "-" what you are referring to? Where would I look for the "M"? Thanks,

 

[Hapworth]

Is it a no dash 586 or a dash one? If I am correct there was a recall on the early 586's for just that reason. Would be marked with an "M" if repaired.

OP's 586 L-Comp was manufactured well after the '80s "M" recall, which was to replace the firing pin and bushing due to primer backflow issues and resultant stuck firing pin.