Lets see 65,000 PSI with a cylinder gap of .009 and getting hit in the face with Debris. Lessen the cylinder gap to .005 and 65,000 PSI is no longer able to throw debris at my face. Simple science really the Debris is clearly larger than .005.
As for adjusting the barrel gap real easy. A life time ago I had a dan wesson with 4 interchangeable barrels. Smith and wesson has copied there idea. In the 460s case they also showed just how stupid S&W is these days. There variation on Dan Wessons design is the frame end of the barrel has a right handed thread and brake end of the barrel has a left hand thread. If it is possible to come up with more of a stupid idea I would like to know it.
Let me get off my high horse. Here is what I did to adjust the cylinder gap. I got the biggest diameter Phillips screw driver I could that would fit in the slots of the brake. I did not want to mare or mark the brake in any way. I slid the phillips all the way to where the hand grip was up against the brake I set the gun on its side on a towel on the bench with the brake sticking out off the bench . Applyed a little weight to loosen it up and the brake moved but did not feel right and stopped moving. Put a little more weight on it and nothing. I decided to tighten it back up put a little weight on it and it breaks loose and starts to unscrew. The brake has a left hand thread. Unscrewed the brake slide the shroud off. Went to unscrew the barrel thinking it was a left handed thread WRONG. It had a right handed thread. unscrewed the barrel inspected the threads. The threads on both the frame and brake ends where well oiled with a light oil. Screwed the barrel back on back on adjusted it to .004 slid the shroud back on screwed the brake on put the phillips in the slights applied about the same amount of pressure as it took to take it off and something did not feel right. Checked the cylinder gap and it was .007. The idiot engineers at S&W dont understand basic physics and the stupidity of having right hand threads at the frame and left on the brake. Well I figure 40 years as a professional mechanic and re engineering all the stupid stuff I have worked on over the years I can out smart them S&W and over come. So I take the brake and shroud off readjust the gap to .002. I almost went with Zero which I should have. Put the shroud back on screwed the brake on and before torquing it I took into consideration where Magnetic north was applied 31.387 percent of my weight not an once more on my left foot pointing due west pointed my noise due east and applied what felt like the amount of torque that it took to remove it. Then measured the gap it was a tight .005 not the .004 I was going for but I figured for my second try it was most acceptable. And the results speak for them self's it no longer bites the hand that feeds it and the rounds go where aimed. I have checked it several times and everything feels tight and the gap has not changed.
For the record I believe the torque on the brake that was needed to move was less than 25 pounds
I just cant get over the stupidity of the treads. Lets see while you are trying to torque the brake on it causes the barrel to be loosened from the frame. That is why they have such a excessive cylinder gap. It is difficult to teach the person on the assembly line how important it is that they point there right little toe exactly 106.3 degrees from true north when torquing on the brake.
Mike
