Safe Reloading Practices

Guys blow up guns all the time for many reasons. All are some from inattention though. Either a double charge of uberfast powder or the wrong powder for that data, squib, etc. Why I like powders that fill a case at least 1/3 full, 1/2 is better. Then it is an easy visual verification something is wrong before seating a bullet. This can happen on an style press, but manual indexing progressives are the ones that bite the un attentive.
Double check your data & the powder prior to reloading. Develop a proper technique of charging cases, checking powder levels & then seating bullets, as you have. Again goes for any press. Once you become a handle puller, relying on a machine to catch the mistake, you are setting yourself up for a kb. Machines go out of spec, batteries die, lots of things to go wrong if you are NOT paying attention.
 
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Load with a single stage press.

When loading pistol I will generally check powder weight every 5th load.

Once I pick up a primed case, I powder charge then immediately seat the bullet. That way there is no possible way to throw a double charge.

Once all the rounds in the block have been seated I go back and crimp the rounds.

Another way I teach for ss guys;
All cases are turned case head up. Turn the case over & charge it. Do this for the entire block. Then visually inspect one final time before placing all your bullets & then seat. It should be impossible to double a charge, as you are only charging a case you turn over. Way faster for batch loading.
 
Another way I teach for ss guys;
All cases are turned case head up. Turn the case over & charge it. Do this for the entire block. Then visually inspect one final time before placing all your bullets & then seat. It should be impossible to double a charge, as you are only charging a case you turn over. Way faster for batch loading.

That's exactly how I do it. I turn them open end up to drop the powder than place the charged case in a separate loading block. Then check all with flashlight and then seat all at once. When done, crimp and throw in completed bucket.
 
When I first started handloading many years I carefully weighed every
charge and would not even consider buying a measure. Finally
realized what a tremendous waste of time that was and acquired
several measures. After a few spills and having to start over using
loading blocks I quit using them. I now charge one case, look inside,
pick up a bullet, start it and seat it. Once I pick up the case I don't
let go of it until it's a loaded round. A foolproof method in my opinion.
 
I weigh my charges with a beam scale.....

And can do it pretty quickly. I use the closest Lee scoop to throw the powder on the scale, the use my Redding trickler to add a few tenths of a grain until it balances. Sometimes not shaking the scoop level will give you close to your target too, so you don't need to be careful with the scoops as long as it throws under the target weight.

PS. And thanks for the heads-up. I try to keep a consistent plan to keep from overdoing it and you just can't be too careful.
 
The problem with an undercharge..,

The problem comes in when a light charge allows a bullet to be stuck in the barrel, and the next round fired will bulge the barrel or worse. If a shot doesn't sound/feel right be sure to check your barrel. I've got a wooden dowel to check the barrel with so I don't have to take apart the pistol. A pen light is good, too.
 
When I first started handloading many years I carefully weighed every
charge and would not even consider buying a measure. Finally
realized what a tremendous waste of time that was and acquired
several measures. After a few spills and having to start over using
loading blocks I quit using them. I now charge one case, look inside,
pick up a bullet, start it and seat it. Once I pick up the case I don't
let go of it until it's a loaded round. A foolproof method in my opinion.

Yes, just painfully slow.
 
Load with a single stage press.

When loading pistol I will generally check powder weight every 5th load.

Once I pick up a primed case, I powder charge then immediately seat the bullet. That way there is no possible way to throw a double charge.

Once all the rounds in the block have been seated I go back and crimp the rounds.

I took your advice and switched my routine. Rather than charge 50 cases at once and then check each with a light and then seat all 50, I now charge the case, put it in the press, and seat the bullet. No chance of double charging and no worries of spilling a case into the rest in the loading block (I did that once and had to dump them all and re-start). When all are seated, I crimp them all at once. I still weigh every charge though. Not gonna stop doing that. 10 seconds per round is worth my peace of mind. I'm not in a rush anyway.

Makes things easier. If I get called away after 6 rounds loaded, it's no big deal. Just pick up where I left off.
 
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I, too, have modified my procedure as a result of this thread. Last night I loaded up some test loads and I did the seat-bullet-immediately-after-charging routine. I was a little worried I was going to have too many steps which could lead to not doing something consistently. (In general I'd rather do one or two steps a bunch of times and then go on to doing one or two additional steps.)

Overall the seat-immediately went well and I think I'll keep with it for the time being.

OR
 
I prefer to reload with a single stage press, using slightly different processes for pistol and rifle ammunition. For general purpose pistol rounds I use a Lee auto-disc powder measure and verify charge weight with an electronic scale at the start of each 100 round batch. When the reloading blocks are full I give them a few taps to "settle" the powder and using a penlight, visually check each round to make certain the powder levels are even. For rifle rounds I weigh each and every charge with an electronic scale.

I treat COAL the same way. I'll measure completed pistol round COAL until the length is consistent and repeatable then run through the batch. As part of my final inspection process, COAL of each rifle round is measured.

Other safe reloading practices I adhere to, in no particular order.
Maintain a clean, well lit work area.
One powder on the bench at a time
Wear safety glasses
Avoid distraction
Take appropriate precautions handling lead

20150404_110845_zpswe9p0lkj.jpg
 
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My first rule is ONE and only ONE powder on the bench at a time. Once through with the powder, it goes back into the container then into the cabinet. Then the next powder comes out.


Good advice, and as as an extra precaution I like to mark the current powder being used on a piece of masking tape and stick it to the powder drop (or in my case my Chargemaster 1500). Here's why I learned to do this method: One time years ago I was loading W748 ball powder (* I think*) and finished the 1lb can and threw it in the trash (yup, a novice mistake). Went on vacation , came back and could not remember what powder was in the hopper. My son had also went to the dump and threw out my trash which had the empty powder bottle. Ended up throwing out the remaining powder in the hopper as I was not exactly sure what powder I was working. I load 9 different calibers, and 11 different powders AND I have 3 different powder throwers, so It can get a little confusing unless you have a solid labeling method regiment !
 
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I follow a similar regimen. I have over 50 different powders on hand so I absolutely NEVER have more than one container of it on the bench at any time. I also have labels on the five tool heads for my Dillon 650 that identify the caliber of each as well as the powder charge for which each measure is set.

The more reloading "stuff" you accumulate and the older you get, the more you need helpful practices like those.

Finally, back when I used one powder measure for all my reloading, I positively HAD to empty it after every session for it is amazing how much alike some powders can look and perhaps weeks later, it can be hard to recall which one you left in the reservoir. Also, some powders will etch some plastics, so emptying those measures is a good idea for that reason too.

Ed
 
Way I see it you are doing it all right. I once made the mistake on my balance scale with 5 gram and .5 on the fine adjustment when loading 41 mag. Well low charge and a stuck JP round.

Learned to double check with a test weight.
 
kbm6893,
I started reloading in 1967, benn at it a while, and I use nearly the same procedure you use. The only deviation is charging handgun cases. I use a Lyman 55 (check every 10th drop against scale) or I use a dipper. Scooped powder charges are accurate and you watch how much goes in the case, all are checked via flashlight of course.
You may get flak from those who believe only progressive presses are suitable , they will say you must have a Dillion XL 650 Super Progressive or you are wasting your time....But don't believe it.
Your way is just fine I been doing it for nearly 50 years....
So you just keep on keepin' on buddy and load safe !
Gary
 
Way I see it you are doing it all right. I once made the mistake on my balance scale with 5 gram and .5 on the fine adjustment when loading 41 mag. Well low charge and a stuck JP round.

Learned to double check with a test weight.

5 grain or 5 gram ? or typo ?
 
kbm6893,
I started reloading in 1967, benn at it a while, and I use nearly the same procedure you use. The only deviation is charging handgun cases. I use a Lyman 55 (check every 10th drop against scale) or I use a dipper. Scooped powder charges are accurate and you watch how much goes in the case, all are checked via flashlight of course.
You may get flak from those who believe only progressive presses are suitable , they will say you must have a Dillion XL 650 Super Progressive or you are wasting your time....But don't believe it.
Your way is just fine I been doing it for nearly 50 years....
So you just keep on keepin' on buddy and load safe !
Gary


Thanks! Don't see myself changing. I stick with what I know works, and gunpowder and primers make me want to stay with what I know!
 
I've been reloading since the late '70's.

Looks like you are doing everything properly.

Can't be too anal when it comes to reloading, and I'm a P.E.

Lots of good info from other posters.

I generally use the slowest powder I can for a given application and try to fill, or slightly compress the powder. This makes a double charge virtually impossible.

Flashlight check is imperative.

I have a Dillon 650, and the reason I bought it was because of the powder check feature. I only use this for practice ammo.

As an interim, you might want to consider a Redding T-7. Not cheap but built like a tank. I have a head for each caliber.

I size, deprime, and bell in one operation. Charge the cases in a manner similar to yours, using an old Lyman 55, and then seat and crimp in another operation. Not terribly fast, but who cares. My ammo consistently out performs premium factory stuff.

BTW, stay safe on the job - most of us civilian CCW's have your six if requested.

S/F,

RAS (aka Walter)
 
only way to do that is either over-charge the case
Proof loads are way hotter than you can imagine. I can't explain some of the 'blowups' but I doubt they were from double charges. I think some 'blowups' are the frame finally letting go after numerous over loaded rounds.
 
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