Shield 9 slide jammed back
- Thread starter bckaroo
- Start date
Same here
I have the same gun as the OP. And it locks open on the 3rd or 4th magazine I push on the top of the barrel with my finger and it will release. Also sometimes when it slide locks with empty mag. When I take the spent mag oout, and insert a full mag. It will rack a round without my releasing the slide lock. I put a little over 200 rounds through it so far. The place I bought it from told me to bring it back to them and they would take care of it for me.
I have the same gun as the OP. And it locks open on the 3rd or 4th magazine I push on the top of the barrel with my finger and it will release. Also sometimes when it slide locks with empty mag. When I take the spent mag oout, and insert a full mag. It will rack a round without my releasing the slide lock. I put a little over 200 rounds through it so far. The place I bought it from told me to bring it back to them and they would take care of it for me.
Sounds like clearance issues somewhere. A call to S&W is free. They may pay shipping both ways. And probably fix for free. You may only be without it for 2-3 weeks. Mine was 13 days from time I shipped until it arrived at my door........
Lmbrouvx,
Really excellent pictures. Those help a lot. However, can you get a picture of your barrel lug like this:
The thing the arrow is pointing to is the barrel lug. The surface it's pointing to should be smooth and have no machine marks or aberrations at all.
I have an older shield so I tried a little experiment. I put the performance center upper on my old lower and it still dose the same thing. on either lower I can pull the slide back by hand slowly, and toward the end of the slide you can feel a gritty resistance like metal scraping metal. My old shield feels smooth all the way no resistance. So I put the performance center barrel in my old shield. and the old barrel in the performance center upper. and the old barrel has no gritty resistance in the new upper. but the performance center barrel in the old upper has the gritty resistance feel like metal scraping metal no matter which upper i put it in. So thats making me belive it is the barrel. EDIT- Also my new performance center barrel has a rough and scratched surface were your arrow is pointing. and my old barrel with 2000+ rounds through it has no marks or burrs at all on that part.
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Hate to say it, It happened to me.
Brand new Performance Center Shield 9mm.
Locked up tight fully to the rear on the third round. Could not get it to budge at the range. When I got home I banged on the barrel, it was concrete tight, and the slide went forward. Will try to shoot it again tomorrow.
Winchester White Box Range/Target 115gr FMJ
Brand new Performance Center Shield 9mm.
Locked up tight fully to the rear on the third round. Could not get it to budge at the range. When I got home I banged on the barrel, it was concrete tight, and the slide went forward. Will try to shoot it again tomorrow.
Winchester White Box Range/Target 115gr FMJ
I picked up a new pc 9mm yesterday. Fired around 150 rounds and had this same issue over 10 times. Cleaned and oiled the gun before I went to the range and even tried cleaning it again at the range. No luck. Tried 3 brands of 115g and a brand of 124g. Did not matter the ammo or the mag it happened with all combinations. Called S&W today and of course the problem was new to them. I told him to google it and you'll see others having this issue also..... emailed me a shipping label and sent it out to them today. Very disappointing that I purchase a new gun and less than 24hrs later I'm sending it in for repairs. Positive point was support was nice and wanted to help.
Took my brand new shield to the range for 1st time today. Ran about 150 rounds through it and had this same issue about 20 times. On the way back to the truck, another guy was asking the range owner for some help getting his new shield's slide unstuck. The date code on my box is 031617.
greeenteeee
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Seems the consensus is barrel tolerances and someone mentioned the RSA. Those who've called in for an RMA, were all solutions new barrels or re-worked barrels? Any instances were the RSA was replaced?
EDIT: picked up a PC9, barrel looked bone dry, RSA felt crunchy, like my first Shield was when new (and now isn't). Clean, lubed and it mitigated the slide locking back some, but not yet 100%.
EDIT: picked up a PC9, barrel looked bone dry, RSA felt crunchy, like my first Shield was when new (and now isn't). Clean, lubed and it mitigated the slide locking back some, but not yet 100%.
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seattlescape
Member
At my Shield's first trip to the range, my girlfriend had this issue with it. Hands me the gun, sure enough, slide is completely immobile and locked back all the way. Eventually I did just give the slide a hard smack to get it to return forward. I took it to the range again the next week and all was well! Before my first range visit I admit I didn't thoroughly clean the pistol. It came 100% dry from the store so I simply oiled it. Of course I did clean it thoroughly before that 2nd range trip, so perhaps that made all the difference. I'll update my post if I have the problem again.
Went to the range yesterday and my brand new Shield 9mm was doing this every other round. I broke it down and noticed it was bone dry. I didn't even think to check first, rookie mistake.
I put some CLP on the rails and other contact points and fired about 150 rounds after that without issue, I figured that fixed it but now I'm gonna keep an eye on it to see if it returns. I won't trust it till about 500 rounds anyways.
Side note, turns out I am more accurate with the Shield then my Glock 19, never thought that would happen on such a small pistol.
I put some CLP on the rails and other contact points and fired about 150 rounds after that without issue, I figured that fixed it but now I'm gonna keep an eye on it to see if it returns. I won't trust it till about 500 rounds anyways.
Side note, turns out I am more accurate with the Shield then my Glock 19, never thought that would happen on such a small pistol.
greeenteeee
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Wow, compared to the 19 huh? Do you have a grouping-size/distance point of comparison?
I thought I had issues with my Shield vs P320 when I was hitting more 6" plates at 10 yards with the Shield... turns out the P320 wasn't zero'd and the front sight is actually too tall lol.
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Bringing this thread back to life. New shield at the range today and I was having this return to battery issue. Random pattern. I will be polishing the barrel and adding more lube. I will update the group with my findings.
Rastoff
US Veteran
Not sure why your issue belongs in this thread.
Still, the issue you're having will probably go away with some more firing. Don't baby the slide when you rack the first round in and do lots of dry practice. Many Shields have had this issue of not going fully into battery, but it goes away quickly.
2 pages, not much on lubing the Shield?
I bought my Shield 2016; just a little oil from the factory on slide/wear points, cleaned it. I have used "STOS" quality light, grease used on high end shotguns on the rails, around the barrel and inside the frame barrel channel, Etc. After break end, clean, re-lube and another session until a few hundred down the pipe. Upon the first firing used a toothpick to put extra STOS inside the slide rail. So over time, no issues, no burrs, no barrel wear @ muzzle, and all even wear. If I use an oil, FP 10, if you ever had a Dan Wesson 1911, those models have to be shot "wet" for 1st 500, then oil as normal. After several years on my M & P's just slight wear for the rail guides, so I owe it to the prep for break end.
I bought my Shield 2016; just a little oil from the factory on slide/wear points, cleaned it. I have used "STOS" quality light, grease used on high end shotguns on the rails, around the barrel and inside the frame barrel channel, Etc. After break end, clean, re-lube and another session until a few hundred down the pipe. Upon the first firing used a toothpick to put extra STOS inside the slide rail. So over time, no issues, no burrs, no barrel wear @ muzzle, and all even wear. If I use an oil, FP 10, if you ever had a Dan Wesson 1911, those models have to be shot "wet" for 1st 500, then oil as normal. After several years on my M & P's just slight wear for the rail guides, so I owe it to the prep for break end.
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