Those are Ahrend's grips. "Retro Target conversions. In Silver/Black stained Tiger Maple. Tung oil finish not lacquer. Very comfortable to 'my' hand, and I can easily put a hundred or more full-house 44 mag rounds through it without any real or lasting discomfort. But I have hands like over-sized eagle talons. That said, the rubbers that came on it DO make it just that much more comfortable to shoot. However, like another said, the difference is really minimal as I've adjusted to wood, and I just can't bring myself to put the rubber back on for any purpose or intention because it hurts my eyes and my heart. Lol.
Shooting large bore revolvers: Rubber or wood?
- Thread starter CDR_Glock
- Start date
cmj8591
Member
I have been using Past leather finger less gloves for some time with my 500 mag. They work great for me. They have a thick rubber palm that soaks up the recoil. Give them a Google. Most of the big supply houses have them.
I can find PAST shoulder protection but not gloves.
Stu
Stu
Not sure that any glove(s) will help you with your problem. For me, it's as much the torque of magnum loads as it is with the actual impact on the hand. Further, I just don't like the fell of padded gloves. I've used both golf gloves and batting gloves to keep the revolver from moving in my hand which helps with some of the battering and they don't compromise "feel".
If you want to try some padded gloves, Walmart has some padded weight lifting gloves that are moderately priced. I've used both the standard and "long wrist" version while testing loads in various big bores. Usually, your local Walmart stocks these and you can try them on for size.
Here's a quick look at some that are avail (even though these are on line, you local store should have them or something similar in stock).
https://www.walmart.com/search/?query=gold weight lifting glove&cat_id=0
I had PAST shooting gloves and don't remember them being anymore effective than weight lifter gloves.
I think PAST quit making the shooting gloves.
Paul
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jag312
Member
I prefer ivory, but wood is my second choice. Rubber is fine for tires, but not for any of my guns.
oger
Member
A 3in 629 is going to hurt with full power loads no matter what grip you put on it.
Not in my hands. I had no issues with shooting full power loads in my little 629 3". I even tried rapid fire without an issue.
Then again, I don't have issues with my 454 Ruger Alaskan,2.5" barrel, either.
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nachogrande
Member
YOU GOT MY NUMBER.
Gloves won't fit over the wrist splints. For me it's NOT a matter of wanting, or liking the goodyears, just what has to be done. They keep the gun/grip in the same position and cushion against recoil better than anything else so far. Looks don't give you better groups, IMO. Do what you have to.
Quite using rubber over 35 years ago after loosing a big patch of hand skin while shooting an IMSHA match, caused a blister and on releasing my grip the rubber was stuck to the loose skin. Never cared much for gloves.
grip frame
Member
Best options from my experience:
Hogue wood grips, with or without finger grooves.More width over other designs like the ahrends or altamonts helps with recoil distribution and smooth finish prevents blisters and lets the revolver move a little in your hand instead of grabbing the skin. Best wood grip for recoil.
Hogue x frame- cushion between back strap and hand.
Pachmyer-decelerator, also cushion.
Another benefit of all the hogue designs is they fill in the area behind the trigger guard which prevents hammering of the fingers during recoil.
Hogue wood grips, with or without finger grooves.More width over other designs like the ahrends or altamonts helps with recoil distribution and smooth finish prevents blisters and lets the revolver move a little in your hand instead of grabbing the skin. Best wood grip for recoil.
Hogue x frame- cushion between back strap and hand.
Pachmyer-decelerator, also cushion.
Another benefit of all the hogue designs is they fill in the area behind the trigger guard which prevents hammering of the fingers during recoil.
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just plain joe
Member
I always preferred Herrett's Jordan Trooper stocks on my K, L, & N frame revolvers. I was more accurate as pointability was enhanced, for me at least.
As a concession to age, I have been using Pachmayr "Decelerator" grips on my Model 28 & Model 58. I have a touch of arthritis and the recoil exacerbates it.
Yesterday I shot 100 rounds of .357 magnum ammunition will no ill effect. Again, I prefer wooden grips. But the Pachmayrs make all the difference.
YMMV.
JPJ
As a concession to age, I have been using Pachmayr "Decelerator" grips on my Model 28 & Model 58. I have a touch of arthritis and the recoil exacerbates it.
Yesterday I shot 100 rounds of .357 magnum ammunition will no ill effect. Again, I prefer wooden grips. But the Pachmayrs make all the difference.
YMMV.
JPJ
Old Corp
Member
Good thread....
Guess my outlook is that if the pistol/revolver is gonna see 'severe service', ie, carried for LE, carried in adverse weather in the woods, hunting and/or hiking my preference is for functionality only. Pachs and/or Hogues.
In 30 years of LE ,my work guns only wore Pachs or Hogues. Why beat decent wood grips into kindling?
Now, I really like 'original' Targets, or in some cases Magnas with an adapter. And I've come to like medallions/escutcheons that are correct.
Guess my outlook is that if the pistol/revolver is gonna see 'severe service', ie, carried for LE, carried in adverse weather in the woods, hunting and/or hiking my preference is for functionality only. Pachs and/or Hogues.
In 30 years of LE ,my work guns only wore Pachs or Hogues. Why beat decent wood grips into kindling?
Now, I really like 'original' Targets, or in some cases Magnas with an adapter. And I've come to like medallions/escutcheons that are correct.
mg357
Absent Comrade
Shoot large bore revolvers? Rubber grips i repeat Rubber grips.
Wood grips are nice but for me i prefer rubber grips.
Wood grips are nice but for me i prefer rubber grips.
HamHands
Member
All of my revolvers, (medium and large bores) wear wood grips. They are also all in my CCW rotation as well and carried according to the venue I need to go and dress. Rubber grips bunch up my shirt/cover garment... so I can't use them for my purposes even though I do like their comfortability... All my revolvers are round butt frames and sport combat profile grips in either walnut or rosewood with the classic finger groves. I find this frame/grip profile combo work best for me as they rest in my meaty hands like a well fitted glove and really soak up the recoil... especially shooting heavy loads with the "N" frame. Speaking of gloves. My suggestion is to find a nice pair of gloves that fit svelte, stitch seems in the right places, etc... but don't pinch, and are made of a material that is comfortable to your liking and still allow a certain degree of dexterity as well. They are likely to cost $100 or more but will be well worth it to practice shooting your revolvers comfortably and do wonders for recoil as well. It's rare I shoot/train with any pistol or long gun without my shooting gloves. This allows me to shoot 200-300 rounds in a heavy caliber range session without fatigue. You don't have to wear the gloves every time you CCW, just when training. A quality pair of gloves won't bind in the trigger guard/trigger return position in DA trigger pulls either if you find a good fitting pair of quality material. YMMV.
Swab Jockey
US Veteran
Rubber or Wood?
Wood is beautiful, but in that beauty there is pain for my arthritic right hand. All of my S&W revolvers have some form of Hogue grips on them and all of my autoloaders have wood on them, except the polymer framed ones.
Wood is beautiful, but in that beauty there is pain for my arthritic right hand. All of my S&W revolvers have some form of Hogue grips on them and all of my autoloaders have wood on them, except the polymer framed ones.
I am concerned way less with my hands than I am with my arms and shoulders.
I usually use a specific stance for shooting the heavy artillery--shoulders down, weight slightly forward, elbows not locked and slightly bent. I forgot once switching from light loads to heavy stuff, and had my elbows locked.
Like I said, only forgot once.
I usually use a specific stance for shooting the heavy artillery--shoulders down, weight slightly forward, elbows not locked and slightly bent. I forgot once switching from light loads to heavy stuff, and had my elbows locked.
Like I said, only forgot once.
OLDSTER
Member
rubber or wood
Shooting handgun silhouette years ago with a Super Blackhwk in production class, I tried goodyears with an aggressive texturing. Tore my hand up
I realized why Ruger furnished their big-bore single actions with smooth wood stocks
Shooting handgun silhouette years ago with a Super Blackhwk in production class, I tried goodyears with an aggressive texturing. Tore my hand up
I realized why Ruger furnished their big-bore single actions with smooth wood stocksAs I see it, the more hand surface in contact with the grip, the more control. Helps lock the wrist.
I almost bought this pistol, and may still. But the recoil was such that I felt it could not be as accurate as what I ultimately acquired - 629 6 - with a big rubber grip.
I almost bought this pistol, and may still. But the recoil was such that I felt it could not be as accurate as what I ultimately acquired - 629 6 - with a big rubber grip.
I love wood...
...but all of my revolvers get hard to take with heavier loads. One is a 686 and the others are J frames. I have Hogue and Pachmehr and they both do a fantastic job. Also, my scores with my J frames improved with the new grips.
...but all of my revolvers get hard to take with heavier loads. One is a 686 and the others are J frames. I have Hogue and Pachmehr and they both do a fantastic job. Also, my scores with my J frames improved with the new grips.
...but all of my revolvers get hard to take with heavier loads. One is a 686 and the others are J frames. I have Hogue and Pachmehr and they both do a fantastic job. Also, my scores with my J frames improved with the new grips.
You need a 629 or 460 now. [emoji23]
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Stump Buster
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I go back and forth between Kurac Wood and Hogue G10 on my 625.
FloridaFlier
Member
Rubber for the hands, but wood for the eyes.
I have big beefy hands and have worked with steel most of my life. I also have always had some big bore magnums for most of my handgun shooting. Never heard of rubber grips in the beginning. One of the worst guns I have had for recoil wasn't a magnum, but a Charter Arms Bulldog. With stiff 240 gr loads it hurt. So I started making grips. Once I figured out how to inlet them I started carving and sanding. Fill up most of the area between trigger guard and grip frame helps, but making them fat in the back so the fill your hand and spread the recoil is huge. I also prefer round butt. Hey my little finger is smaller than the rest. If you smack a tapered pin in a tapered hole it gets tighter. If the taper is upside down it pops out. Big bottom targets work that way and if checkered that checkering sands on your skin if gun moves at all.
Along comes rubber and it works IF it fits your hand, if it covers the back strap. Being big handed helps.
I prefer rubber over wood, round over square, finger groves as long as they fit.
I have a 696 with thin wood grips, it hurts worse with specials than my 629 with magnums. My 396 has rubber and isn't as bad as the heavier 696. My 325 with wood has some sting. My 500 has a 8 3/8" barrel and a scope and rubber and its not bad. N frame 45 colts with warm loads are not bad even with regular targets, better with rubber. My cut down 1917 with K frame sized round butt and my home made wood grips is fine.
Match the stocks to the gun and its all fine.
Along comes rubber and it works IF it fits your hand, if it covers the back strap. Being big handed helps.
I prefer rubber over wood, round over square, finger groves as long as they fit.
I have a 696 with thin wood grips, it hurts worse with specials than my 629 with magnums. My 396 has rubber and isn't as bad as the heavier 696. My 325 with wood has some sting. My 500 has a 8 3/8" barrel and a scope and rubber and its not bad. N frame 45 colts with warm loads are not bad even with regular targets, better with rubber. My cut down 1917 with K frame sized round butt and my home made wood grips is fine.
Match the stocks to the gun and its all fine.
BLACKHAWKNJ
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Even Steven for me. My M-28 and M-57 have Herrett's, my 4" nickel M-27 wears Pachmayrs-the black rubber makes a nice contrast with the bright finish.
Qc Pistolero
Member
I must confess that I prefer the look of wood on a gun(long or short).But the main thing is that the grip must fit;if it doesn't,rubber or wood,it'll feel ackward or downright uncomfortable.
If it hurts when you shoot it,don't blame the gun or caliber but first look at the point of contact between the gun and human being;the grip,make it fit!
Qc
If it hurts when you shoot it,don't blame the gun or caliber but first look at the point of contact between the gun and human being;the grip,make it fit!
Qc
One thing I do is have the same or similar design grip on each of my guns so that takes one less big of inconsistency out of the mix.
I'll be changing the grips of my Kimber K6S and a Ruger GP100 to make it similar across the board.
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