I presume this is done from the muzzle end, correct?
I can't see any way to do it from the forcing cone end.
I can't see any way to do it from the forcing cone end.
Slugging a revolver barrel
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cowboy4evr
Member
Yes , you start at the muzzle . I push the lead slug in about 1/4" , then pull it back out and measure it , best I can to get the groove diameter . Before driving it in I had marked with a felt pen on the end indexing it with the front sight . When I put it back in the barrel , the felt mark aligns it correctly in the muzzle . Then I push it through the barrel , seeing if I feel any tight spots or machine marks in the barrel . When I reach near the end of the barrel , where the barrel joins the frame I am curious to see if there is a tight spot in the barrel stopping the lead slug from going any further . When it happens , you will feel it stop , " abruptly " !!
It's not unusual to find that it takes tapping on the rod pushing the slug through the barrel with a hammer to get it on through to the forcing cone . I measure the slug again as that will tell me the size of the " choke " at the tight spot, how many thousandths undersize the barrel is right there . Firelapping the barrel , then finishing hand lapping the barrel is what it takes to correct those problems . It sounds lengthy but it is what it takes to know the size of cast bullets you need , removes tight spots and machine marks in the barrel . With proper size , proper hardness of alloy and good lube you should enjoy a clean shooting barrel free of leading and increased accuracy . Regards, Paul
It's not unusual to find that it takes tapping on the rod pushing the slug through the barrel with a hammer to get it on through to the forcing cone . I measure the slug again as that will tell me the size of the " choke " at the tight spot, how many thousandths undersize the barrel is right there . Firelapping the barrel , then finishing hand lapping the barrel is what it takes to correct those problems . It sounds lengthy but it is what it takes to know the size of cast bullets you need , removes tight spots and machine marks in the barrel . With proper size , proper hardness of alloy and good lube you should enjoy a clean shooting barrel free of leading and increased accuracy . Regards, Paul
OP
How the heck do you pull it back out?
This worked for me. I ground down a brass nut to put on the end to hold the lead in when I poured it.
Attachments
coupler nut and 1/4 20 all thread and a 1/4 20 hanger bolt. Once you have the hanger bolt as deep in the coupler nut as possible, run the all thread in hard against the end of hanger bolt. Use a drill and a grinder to remove flats on nut and take the OD down some. Add a handle. Works on everything but 32s and 22s. You could probably make a stuck ball extractor with 8-32 components for 32s and 22s, though you might have to use a die on the shank of a screw to make the hanger screw portion of it.
I have made various sized ball removers for muzzle loaders etc. I always went all the way through on a revolver barrel, you can feel tight spots once it is started.
I have made various sized ball removers for muzzle loaders etc. I always went all the way through on a revolver barrel, you can feel tight spots once it is started.
gwpercle
Member
I used a soft lead bell fishing sinker , assortment of sizes from fishing dept. @ Academy or any tackle shop , select a sinker just over bore diameter , not the largest in the assortment , lube the bore and insert small end of sinker in muzzle , gently tap with plastic mallet , then use a rod just under bore dia.(brass or aluminum) , drive it gently all the way through.
Don't go all Magilla Gorilla on it...if things don't go in and through with gentle taps ... a bigger hammer isn't the answer .
Don't forget to grease the bore with gun grease...you want it slick and slippery in there .
Gary
Don't go all Magilla Gorilla on it...if things don't go in and through with gentle taps ... a bigger hammer isn't the answer .
Don't forget to grease the bore with gun grease...you want it slick and slippery in there .
Gary
cowboy4evr
Member
I buy lead slugs from Veral Smith at LBT Molds for the caliber I want . They have a wire tip on them . You use a pair of pliers , grip the wire tip and pull it back out . I have made my own slugs occasionally using an already fired case , unsized and the spent primer still in the case . Melt a little lead and pour into the case , filling it about 1/2 full . Place the case , when it cools in your bullet puller , the inertia kind that is like a hammer that holds the case . Tap numerous times and the slug will fall out . That slug will start to fit in your barrel with a few taps , enough to get it into the muzzle a little ways , enough to engrave it and get a measure . Be sure to lightly oil the barrel before pushing the slug all the way through . Regards, Paul
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One tip I saw many years ago for slugging a handgun; pour lead into an empty case of the appropriate caliber, same as gun being slugged. Remove slug from case with an impact bullet puller. The resulting slug will be tapered and of the correct diameter. I have slugged every one of my handguns. Since I'm looking for the ID of the entire barrel I run the slug all the way through. One can tell if there is a "choke" or restriction by the amount of force needed to push the slug through. If I encounter a tight spot, I will look further to see where it is and a possible fix (I have fore lapped a 44 Magnum revolvers that had a "constriction" at the barrel/frame junction)...
trapper9260
Member
What I do is use lead egg type fishing sinkers and oil the barrel and the sinker, then I tap it in the muzzle of the barrel and keep put oil on the sinker, then when I get it out the barrel I check it for size then I take a cast boolit I have for that cart, and see if it will be a snug fit in all the cylinder. and see if it close to the barrel size is.
