Sport II Newbie question

I considered getting a Ruger and a sport ll. When I seen how hard the breakdown pins come out on the Ruger, I bought only the Sport ll. I decided to take the $500-600 I was gonna spend on the Ruger, and bought ammo instead.
 
I considered getting a Ruger and a sport ll. When I seen how hard the breakdown pins come out on the Ruger, I bought only the Sport ll. I decided to take the $500-600 I was gonna spend on the Ruger, and bought ammo instead.

Yeah, you're correct about that. I wonder why they made them that hard to press out? :confused:
 
But the Ruger delta ring is a great idea. The unlined barrel; honestly, do you think that either one of us would be able to wear out an unlined barrel? I did read somewhere that the Sport 2 barrel was nitraded (sp) ???????........isn't that what they coat the M&P with? And, the exposed firing pin, if it works, why knock it.
As you stated, buy the rifle that has the most features that YOU want. That, you and I can agree upon.
BTW, thanks for your service! ;)

Yes, I do think I could shoot out a barrel. My ARs are shot like my .22lr... plinking and many rounds per session, unlike my other rifles that are zeroed for hunting and fire maybe three shots a year after that. It is not a bench rest gun for me... I shoot more than 1 shot per second and do not allow the gun to cool between 5 shot groups.

The barrel on the Sport is salt nitrided... it is a metal treatment, not a coating. On a chrome lined barrel, the bore is drilled to a larger size to accommodate the thickness of the chrome lining. With salt nitride bath, the bore is cut to the proper size and then treated. The treatment uses heat and chemicals to change the molecular structure of the metal to increase hardness, yet does not affect the dimensions of the bore. Therefore, you gain hardness and protection over an unlined bore, without any of the theoretical accuracy loss of chrome lining. CHF is said to also add to hardness. Not sure which barrel will last longer, but in my experience, a nitrided barrel cleans easier.

As far as the delta ring, I agree, it was a neat idea. However, on the Ruger forums, I see many complaints of it gauling and seizing where it can not be turned by hand. The original design has been tested and proven for over 50 years.

With the exposed firing pin, the collar on the firing pin is being used to cock the hammer vs. the ramp on the bolt carrier. The firing pin is not nearly as beefy as the bolt carrier, and is therefore more prone to failure. The firing pin retaining pin is subject to more wear with this configuration. Not saying it doesn't work, but you should watch the wear. Colt and every other manufacturer have moved away from this design, as it was politically motivated, not innovation.

Again, not saying that the Ruger is bad... I just prefer Smith's offering at this price point. If I were buying today though, I would probably be looking at this... AC-15 5.56MM 16" MID-LENGTH RIFLE | Brownells
 
Yes, I do think I could shoot out a barrel. My ARs are shot like my .22lr... plinking and many rounds per session, unlike my other rifles that are zeroed for hunting and fire maybe three shots a year after that. It is not a bench rest gun for me... I shoot more than 1 shot per second and do not allow the gun to cool between 5 shot groups.

The barrel on the Sport is salt nitrided... it is a metal treatment, not a coating. On a chrome lined barrel, the bore is drilled to a larger size to accommodate the thickness of the chrome lining. With salt nitride bath, the bore is cut to the proper size and then treated. The treatment uses heat and chemicals to change the molecular structure of the metal to increase hardness, yet does not affect the dimensions of the bore. Therefore, you gain hardness and protection over an unlined bore, without any of the theoretical accuracy loss of chrome lining. CHF is said to also add to hardness. Not sure which barrel will last longer, but in my experience, a nitrided barrel cleans easier.

As far as the delta ring, I agree, it was a neat idea. However, on the Ruger forums, I see many complaints of it gauling and seizing where it can not be turned by hand. The original design has been tested and proven for over 50 years.

With the exposed firing pin, the collar on the firing pin is being used to cock the hammer vs. the ramp on the bolt carrier. The firing pin is not nearly as beefy as the bolt carrier, and is therefore more prone to failure. The firing pin retaining pin is subject to more wear with this configuration. Not saying it doesn't work, but you should watch the wear. Colt and every other manufacturer have moved away from this design, as it was politically motivated, not innovation.

Again, not saying that the Ruger is bad... I just prefer Smith's offering at this price point. If I were buying today though, I would probably be looking at this... AC-15 5.56MM 16" MID-LENGTH RIFLE | Brownells
If I ever buy another AR, which I most likely will, I am going to go with my original idea before I EVER considering shooting all of those AR's at the range. I am going to build mine with ALL of the parts from Palmetto State Armory.
In a way, I do regret not going that route. But dangit, I let that darn Phoenix persuade me into bringing them home. :mad:
Ah well, C'est la vie! :o
 
Thanks everyone for the input. I went to a gun shop today, and held several different models and compared them. I'm still not 100% set on which one to get. But the range I am a member at has free rental for me, I just have to buy ammo from them.
 
Thanks everyone for the input. I went to a gun shop today, and held several different models and compared them. I'm still not 100% set on which one to get. But the range I am a member at has free rental for me, I just have to buy ammo from them.
Dang, my friend owns the LGS I deal with, and he charges me rental! Well, 1/2 price. :D
 
My Sport was tight when I first got it... they loosen up a little after a couple hundred rounds.

My rear takedown pin on my Sport is still hard to push after hundreds and hundreds of rounds, I have to use a dowel to push it. I connected another upper to the Sport lower and it was much better, so it has to be the upper holes that are tight. No biggie though, I just need a pusher to get it started.
 
+1!
I had totally forgotten about those 2 facts. That 1:8 twist did help in making my selection. And, tests have proven that a CHF barrel will last longer. Colt Canada has proven this theory.

Oh yeah many Ruger buyers are complaining that the two take-down pins are excessively difficult to pull out and frequently requiring a punch. Ruger's proprietary parts sucks rocks. If Ruger has a lifetime warranty they'd issue it in writing like Smith and Wesson does.
 
Where does everyone buy ammo at in bulk? What is a good per round price? I picked up some tonight for $0.39 a round locally on sale. I've found it online for as low as .31 a round but you pay shipping.

I reload all the other calibers I shoot, anyone reload this round?
 
Where does everyone buy ammo at in bulk? What is a good per round price? I picked up some tonight for $0.39 a round locally on sale. I've found it online for as low as .31 a round but you pay shipping.

I reload all the other calibers I shoot, anyone reload this round?

I buy it from Sportsmansguide, they have 1000rounds of Wolf Gold for $297.82 for club members (free shipping with code BRSH1606). If you're not a member it's worth buying imo, you can get like 20% off your first order so it's easy to make the money back and then you get 10% off everything going forward.

Wolf Gold .223 Ammo, FMJ, 55 Grain, 1,000 Rounds - 292056, .223 Remington Ammo at Sportsman's Guide

I reload it and it's good to go for that or converting to 300BLK also. Thumbs up all round for Wolf Gold in my book. :)
 
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I read this entire thread because I also have a brand new M&P 15. I was actually hoping to get some info about scope options. I guess me and the OP just weren't on your agenda, huh?
 
I read this entire thread because I also have a brand new M&P 15. I was actually hoping to get some info about scope options. I guess me and the OP just weren't on your agenda, huh?

Well ... it depends on 1) how much you have to spend 2) what you plan on doing with the rifle

Hunting ?
Close Quarters competition?
Range shooting?
Plinking outdoors?

A red dot might work well ... depends on what you want ... however, I need magnification (bad eyes) ... so I have 2 scopes ... a 1x6 vortex strike eagle and a nikon 4.5x18 prostaff ... both have a quick release mount and depending on my needs I can change them out

I also have a cheap red dot for farting around

Check out Vortex and Prmary Arms scopes ... I like them both

Vortex Optics Strike Eagle Rifle Scope 30mm 1-6x24mm .5 MOA Adjustment

Primary Arms 1-6X Scope with Patented ACSS Reticle
 
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I read this entire thread because I also have a brand new M&P 15. I was actually hoping to get some info about scope options. I guess me and the OP just weren't on your agenda, huh?

Do yourself a favor. If you don't know anything about anything and you want a turret adjustable scope, go buy a Nikon P223 3-9 x 40 and either the P223 or M223 scope mounts and call it a day.
 
I too just picked up a Sport II and while I plan to leave this one open sights, I can't replace that awful stock fast enough! A Magpul ACS will be here Monday am. I also added a $20 Hogue rubber finger grooved pistol grip. Awesome setup at a total of about $700 after additions.


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Where does everyone buy ammo at in bulk? What is a good per round price? I picked up some tonight for $0.39 a round locally on sale. I've found it online for as low as .31 a round but you pay shipping.

I reload all the other calibers I shoot, anyone reload this round?

I reload .223. My Sport I is the only .223 rifle I have. So my reloads are only shot in my Sport.

I've got probably 2,000 reloads through it. Three times I've had a "pull-and-click-only". (They weren't all misfires....at least I don't think so technically.)

Two times I pulled the trigger and got only a click. In both situations there was a VERY SLIGHT dimple mark on the primer from the firing pin. I rechambered the round (in each case) and it fired. In these two situations I'm confident I didn't seat the primer all the way to the base of the primer cup. (The first firing pin strike pushed the primer all the way into the cup.)

Just two days ago I had my very first, true, misfire. I got click (no bang) and there was a DEEP firing pin strike on the primer. I figure bad primer - but that happens so rarely maybe it was something else?

BTW - I shoot mixed brass (lots of range scrounged) and CCI Small Rifle Magnum primers.

OR

P.S.: I'm reloading for $.24-25/rnd. Hornady 55gr FMJs and H335 powder.
 
Where does everyone buy ammo at in bulk? What is a good per round price? I picked up some tonight for $0.39 a round locally on sale. I've found it online for as low as .31 a round but you pay shipping.

I reload all the other calibers I shoot, anyone reload this round?
Matt Congrats on your new Sport.. I will be having one follow me home soon :)
For ammo check out Freedom Munitions ! The price is pretty good and your first order ie FREE shipping! They also have sale either 5% off of free shipping.. I have burned arounf 2k rounds of 9mm w/no issues

https://www.freedommunitions.com/
 
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