Marylander
Member
What's the preferred method to remove a stuck bullet in the bore, results of a squib load? Especially in a Revolver. Thanks
Squib load/Bullet in the bore
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Retired in 2001
Member
Remove the cylinder before to try to drive that thing out I wrecked a 642 so I know now...good luck
Make SURE if you use a wood dowel that it is as close to bore diameter as possible. It is not unheard of for a dowel to split and then have the two parts slide past one another forming a wedge.
Then you'll have an even worse obstruction.
If the squib is caught in the forcing cone, you will not be able to remove the cylinder or unload the gun.
Fortunately, such a squib will often be easiest to remove, so long as the base of the bullet does not get jammed re-entering the case mouth.
Jim
Then you'll have an even worse obstruction.
If the squib is caught in the forcing cone, you will not be able to remove the cylinder or unload the gun.
Fortunately, such a squib will often be easiest to remove, so long as the base of the bullet does not get jammed re-entering the case mouth.
Jim
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LoboGunLeather
US Veteran
SMSgt got it right. Penetrating oil down the bore, allow it to sit for a few hours to work its way around the obstruction, then a brass rod (or aluminum, or wooden dowel) and a mallet to tap the stuck bullet free of the bore. It helps to have a secure bench vice with jaws padded by heavy leather (or sheet lead) to secure the frame of the revolver while doing the removal.
This happens more often than some may think. In my experience it is almost always the result of a squib load (failure to detonate the powder, but primer force drives the bullet into the barrel). Unless excessive force or too much stupid is applied it will not usually result in any permanent damage.
This happens more often than some may think. In my experience it is almost always the result of a squib load (failure to detonate the powder, but primer force drives the bullet into the barrel). Unless excessive force or too much stupid is applied it will not usually result in any permanent damage.
Oil the back of the barrel before driving it back toward the forcing cone. It is much easier that way!
gwpercle
Member
Medium light taps work better than big blows from a 5 pound hammer .
Be careful or you will get to read the sticky " how to remove a broken dowel rod " . Lube the bore well to help the bullet move out . clamp the barrel upright and flood the bullet with penetrating oil , let stand overnight then go for the removal...good luck!
Gary
Be careful or you will get to read the sticky " how to remove a broken dowel rod " . Lube the bore well to help the bullet move out . clamp the barrel upright and flood the bullet with penetrating oil , let stand overnight then go for the removal...good luck!
Gary
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OLDSTER
Member
Absolutely ! I also ruined a J frame a few years back because I didn't remove the cylinder prior to driving out a squib. So be sure to remove the cylinder, then use a wood dowel and tap the bullet out of the bore.
OP
Marylander
Member
Thanks for all the replies. the "stuck in barrel" came up in another thread, but with no measures to correct. I do reload, and always wondered the correct procedure. Many thanks again R
In case you're one of those people who have been wondering if you should use your reloads for SD, you now have your answer.
Brass or aluminum rod. A wooden dowel can break or splinter and tightly jam in the barrel. BTDT 1970
bigggbbruce
Member
For MY sd loads I use my powder trickle to ensure precise weights. No chance of a squib because of low powder charge.
Move along..
BLACKHAWKNJ
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Yes, my only squib was one my reloads in 41 Magnum.
I have made range rods out of brass rods and a wooden dowel for a handle.
I have made range rods out of brass rods and a wooden dowel for a handle.
ArchAngelCD
Moderator, SWCA Member, Absent Comrade
All good advice here except for the wooden dowel. Eventually it will split and worsen the obstruction. Stick with brass IMO.
YES THEY WILL SPLINTER! Ask me how I figured that out. Make sure it is a very hardwood dowel if it's all you have. After my fiasco with a splintered dowel rod (was a long time ago and in a rifle, while trying to slug the barrel), I went out and bought 2-3 sizes of brass rod, in case it ever happened again. (it hasn't)
Hopefully it's far enough in that you can remove the cylinder and not so far to give you any grief.
Boriqua
Member
I used a wooden dowel very close to the same diameter of the barrel when I did it in a 1911. I was afraid of scratching the inside of the barrel.
I sprayed it heavily with a liquid wrench type oil and sat the barrel on its end so the oil could seep down the barrel and I left it alone for an hour or so even though I was anxious as hell to get at it.
After about an hour I gave it another little spray and then put the barrel up on a piece leather on a small anvil I have so that the ramp wasnt on the anvil and from the front I used the dowel and it came out after about 3 whacks.
I hadnt loaded light .. I didnt have any charge at all in the case. The primer was enough to get that bullet stuck in there but good. At the time I was using an old cranky progressive and I wasnt ready for it.
Now I use a single stage and after I charge all my cases I take a small cheap flashlight and just give the cases a once over while they are in the trays. Just a little insurance. A double drop or no drop will show immediately!
I sprayed it heavily with a liquid wrench type oil and sat the barrel on its end so the oil could seep down the barrel and I left it alone for an hour or so even though I was anxious as hell to get at it.
After about an hour I gave it another little spray and then put the barrel up on a piece leather on a small anvil I have so that the ramp wasnt on the anvil and from the front I used the dowel and it came out after about 3 whacks.
I hadnt loaded light .. I didnt have any charge at all in the case. The primer was enough to get that bullet stuck in there but good. At the time I was using an old cranky progressive and I wasnt ready for it.
Now I use a single stage and after I charge all my cases I take a small cheap flashlight and just give the cases a once over while they are in the trays. Just a little insurance. A double drop or no drop will show immediately!
SD loads are a totally different issue; another lengthy, multi opinion, "internet wisdom" thread where no consensus is ever reached, and if one is serious about the question he is often more confused after reading...
Please keep posts somewhat close the the OP's issue...
Why Is It Taught Not To Use Reloads For Self Defense?
Please keep posts somewhat close the the OP's issue...
Why Is It Taught Not To Use Reloads For Self Defense?
I have slugged a lot of barrels and find that light blows with a very heavy hammer [4 lbs is better than 2 lbs, either better than a 12 oz] work the best. If a brass case will fit down the bore and over your dowel use it on the end of the rod.
I have used a large Phillips head screwdriver. Before you say no no no think about it. The shaft of the screwdriver is almost as wide as the barrel. The only part of the screwdriver that endangers the barrel is the tip that is touching the bullet you are trying to dislodge. It can't go sideways so the tip is always touching the bullet and nothing else.
cjwils
Member
I once dropped some empty .22 cases down the barrel of a .357 that had a squib. When the last .22 case protruded, I pushed that against a post until that case was down flush with the muzzle. Then put in another .22 case and pushed that down flush, and so on. It only took a minute until the stuck bullet was pushed out the back of the barrel.
