Hoppe's No. 9 is not a CLP

[McChemist]

Back in the '70s I was an armorer for a mid-size (800 officer) PD. We did notice some nickel flaking on a very few Colt and S&W DA revolvers, mostly on the cylinder faces. Our lead armorer called S&W, and I was listening in. The S&W manager told us not to use Hoppe's #9 on nickeled guns. He said some nickeling procedures involve first copper-plating the firearm, supposedly to allow the nickel to better adhere. If the nickel gets cracked even minutely (such as on the cylinder face) the Hoppes can intrude and begin to eat away the copper, allowing the nickel to flake or lift. My understanding at the time was that this applied to nickeled S&W revolvers, but I have since been chastised severely by RKIs who say Smith never used the copper base, so I likely misunderstood.
On the other hand, no less a luminary than Elmer Keith observed in his Gun Notes column in G&A magazine a half-century ago that Hoppe's #9 was the only solvent he found would not throw the first shot out of the group after cleaning. I tested the theory in a half-dozen sniper rifles and found it to be true, though that is hardly a scientific or formal test.

Ammonium hydroxide (NH4OH) will most definitely react with Cu to form [Cu(NH3)4]2+, copper (II)tetraamine. The hydroxide is probably present to neutralize any acidic combustion species present.

 

[3/4Flap]

Ammonium hydroxide (NH4OH) will most definitely react with Cu to form [Cu(NH3)4]2+, copper (II)tetraamine. The hydroxide is probably present to neutralize any acidic combustion species present.

Indeed, it's stated purpose is to remove copper jacket fouling from the bore.

 

[GnarlsR2]

I have used Hoppe’s #9 since 1978.

About 3 months ago I was watching a YT video of a guy using Hoppe’s, then using Bore Tech Inc’s Cu+2 Copper Remover on his bore of an AR15. I was very surprised at how much copper comes out onto the patches.

I have now switched to Cu+2 Copper Remover on all parts because it cleans so well on carbon and ammo residue, and especially copper, out of the bore. I run a wet cloth patch through bore and let set for about 5 or 10 minutes, then do it again until there is very little to no “green” copper coming out on the patches. It has no ammonia.

https://a.co/d/02g7Nf9

Recently I was watching a YT video on lubricating a firearm with grease. I have never used a “grease” on any of my guns. I live in the Arizona desert where the average yearly temperature is 73.7d F, and the average July temperature is 106d F. I decided to try some grease. I took some synthetic Slick 50 wheel bearing grease, with Teflon, and put it in a 5.0 ml syringe. I field stripped and, with a q-tip, put a very thin layer on key metal-on-metal shiny areas, slide rails and guide rod spring assembly, on my freshly cleaned and lubed BG2 and P365 Micro.

I was very surprised at the smoothness of the “feel” when racking the slide, but also surprised at how the grease reduced the actual sound of racking the slide. I “greased” 3 other pistols.

I will be at the range on Saturday with 9 other hole-punching deplorables, so I will see how my “grease guns” work. I’ll bring up the topic of cleaning, oils, grease and lubrication during our post hole-punching fun at lunch.

 

[hkcavalier]

Slick 50 sounds interesting. I typically use boron nitride grease. It's very slippery and not as tacky as moly or lithium grease. Those two seem to be fine for slide rails and shotgun action bars, but definitely no rotating parts in my guns.

I did some research and it looks like the Slick 50 people know all about boron nitride, so maybe our two products aren't too far apart.

 

[GnarlsR2]

There are many choices for boron nitride grease on Amazon.

The 1 lb. can of Slick 50 One Grease has been in my garage for about 20 years. Rather than pay $10 or $20 for 1 ozs. of real "gun grease", I decided to try what I have. If I were to buy a gun grease I'd pick Clenzoil Synthetic Grease https://a.co/d/gqoS21F
or Hoppe's No 9. Gun Grease https://a.co/d/6f2Ech2

 

[3/4Flap]

I have used Hoppe’s #9 since 1978.

About 3 months ago I was watching a YT video of a guy using Hoppe’s, then using Bore Tech Inc’s Cu+2 Copper Remover on his bore of an AR15. I was very surprised at how much copper comes out onto the patches.

I have now switched to Cu+2 Copper Remover on all parts because it cleans so well on carbon and ammo residue, and especially copper, out of the bore. I run a wet cloth patch through bore and let set for about 5 or 10 minutes, then do it again until there is very little to no “green” copper coming out on the patches. It has no ammonia.

https://a.co/d/02g7Nf9

Recently I was watching a YT video on lubricating a firearm with grease. I have never used a “grease” on any of my guns. I live in the Arizona desert where the average yearly temperature is 73.7d F, and the average July temperature is 106d F. I decided to try some grease. I took some synthetic Slick 50 wheel bearing grease, with Teflon, and put it in a 5.0 ml syringe. I field stripped and, with a q-tip, put a very thin layer on key metal-on-metal shiny areas, slide rails and guide rod spring assembly, on my freshly cleaned and lubed BG2 and P365 Micro.

I was very surprised at the smoothness of the “feel” when racking the slide, but also surprised at how the grease reduced the actual sound of racking the slide. I “greased” 3 other pistols.

I will be at the range on Saturday with 9 other hole-punching deplorables, so I will see how my “grease guns” work. I’ll bring up the topic of cleaning, oils, grease and lubrication during our post hole-punching fun at lunch.

I just checked out the Bore Tech stuff. Looks interesting. I wonder what it's made of and how it actually works.
RE: Grease. I'm neutral in The Lube Wars and care only about performance. One source involving a test relevant to my winter conditions as well as including data on an actual abrasion tests is the Canadian Police Research Centre for use by the Royal Canadian Mounted Police (RCMP) for use in cold weather in November of 1995. Report TR-01-97: Evaluation of Gun Lubricant Operation at Low Temperatures.
But alas...I cannot find it online anymore!

 

[GnarlsR2]

"I'm neutral in The Lube Wars and care only about performance."

Yes, I agree... there are so many choices, experiences, and expert opinions, like most aspects of firearms, the discourse can go on forever.

 

[McChemist]

I just checked out the Bore Tech stuff. Looks interesting. I wonder what it's made of and how it actually works.
RE: Grease. I'm neutral in The Lube Wars and care only about performance. One source involving a test relevant to my winter conditions as well as including data on an actual abrasion tests is the Canadian Police Research Centre for use by the Royal Canadian Mounted Police (RCMP) for use in cold weather in November of 1995. Report TR-01-97: Evaluation of Gun Lubricant Operation at Low Temperatures.
But alas...I cannot find it online anymore!

And you probably never know the formula. Proprietary.

 

[GnarlsR2]

I found this...

 

[McChemist]

I found this...

It does contain 2-amminophosphonic acid. That will sequester Cu nicely. Use gloves, eye protection and be in a well ventilated area. If you get it on you, wash with copious amounts of water. If you get it on clothing, remove the clothing and rinse effected areas as above. This should be in the SDS.

 

[65-2x2]

Synthetic motor oil in a low viscosity grade is as good as, if not better than, any CLP for gun use. And is far less expensive than all those Snake Oils on the market.

That is exactly what I use for guns and other household items. A quart lasts for years. If you find a cleaner better than Kerosene, let me know... People spend a lot of time, effort and money searching for the "best" when good enough is good enough.