fredj338
Member
Forget wooden dowels all together. A brass rod wont hurt the bore & wont split.
Squib load/Bullet in the bore
- Thread starter Marylander
- Start date
fredj338
Member
Funny, I am sure everyone reloading has said something like this. Load enough ammo, ss or progressive, you will likely get a squib.
Once the bullet has been removed, inspect the barrel. Many times, maybe all the time, the squib will ring the barrel. Usually, this does no harm, but I would not go so far as to say it is totally harmless.
Really?
How does a single bullet stuck in the barrel, ring the barrel? If a second round is fired, the barrel will be rung, but not just one bullet.
How does a single bullet stuck in the barrel, ring the barrel? If a second round is fired, the barrel will be rung, but not just one bullet.
noylj
Member
Yes, you have to fire that SECOND round to bulge/ring the barrel.
Most squibs are caused by the reloader NOT inspecting the powder height of EVERY charged case before seating a bullet. If you can't inspect every case, use an RCBS Lock-Out die.
Most squibs are caused by the reloader NOT inspecting the powder height of EVERY charged case before seating a bullet. If you can't inspect every case, use an RCBS Lock-Out die.
gwpercle
Member
If I would have done that ... I would have gotten a barrel full of empty 22 cases stuck in the bore !
fredj338
Member
Yeah doesnt work that way. A squib is a ultra low pressure event. It does zero damage to the bore unless you fire another full power round behind it.
Hmmm. There are phillips screwdrivers with shanks from 3/32" up to 7/16", and depending on caliber of the barrel, a decent fit may be OK. A sharp point, like a phillips point, will drive into a lead bullet, expanding it and making the fit much tighter. I use a heavy hammer/mallet and the heavy "push" against a lodged bullet is better than a "tap, tap, tap", which can swage a bullet. I never put anything in a firearm barrel that is harder than brass. Not being critical of your methods, just relating some info from 50+ years as a machinist/mechanic...
hkcavalier
US Veteran
I lucked out with this one. Easy to remove with pliers. Still have it sitting on a window sill.
This one was tougher. I tapped it in with a brass hammer, got it further with a brass punch, then packed in a shotgun patch and got it the rest of the way with an M16 cleaning rod. The patch was there to keep the end from sliding off the nose of the bullet and wedging against the barrel. Even though the steel of a cleaning rod is pretty mild, it can't be good for the bore.
This one was tougher. I tapped it in with a brass hammer, got it further with a brass punch, then packed in a shotgun patch and got it the rest of the way with an M16 cleaning rod. The patch was there to keep the end from sliding off the nose of the bullet and wedging against the barrel. Even though the steel of a cleaning rod is pretty mild, it can't be good for the bore.
I have Alumilum and brass rods for squibs. I have never had much trouble getting bullets out of hand guns. If you use proper rod to begin with. I've had them brought it after owners used spike nails or whatever was handy that was smaller than bore. Usually steel and all it does is expand the bullet and make it harder to get out. I had a 357 brought in that they had bullet stuck between cylinder and cone. A SA import. The cylinder gap was enought that I sawed through the bullet with a jewlers saw and was able to get cylinder out. Worst sqibs are in rifles. I've had to take a brass rod and drill it to accept a 1/8 drill and make a pilot bushing to drill through
bullet from chamber. Then did same thing from Muzzel which was only about 6" from bullet. Used a series of bigger bits up to 1/4 . This was in a Rem 721 in 270win. They stuck a spitzer SP bullet and tried to tap it out from Muzzel with a steel cleaning rod. Turned out after all that and a squirt of PB Blaster it came out with a couple light taps. I have rig for ML sqibs.
It's stainless and turn pilot bit by hand to drill through bullet. Have screw end on shaft with nut welded on the end and a piece of 2" bar stock drilled
for a slap hammer. Use rachet to run screw into ball and then slap hammer it out. 3/8ths works in 45 & 50 cals. I only do this after I attempt to work some powder in and shoot it out.
bullet from chamber. Then did same thing from Muzzel which was only about 6" from bullet. Used a series of bigger bits up to 1/4 . This was in a Rem 721 in 270win. They stuck a spitzer SP bullet and tried to tap it out from Muzzel with a steel cleaning rod. Turned out after all that and a squirt of PB Blaster it came out with a couple light taps. I have rig for ML sqibs.
It's stainless and turn pilot bit by hand to drill through bullet. Have screw end on shaft with nut welded on the end and a piece of 2" bar stock drilled
for a slap hammer. Use rachet to run screw into ball and then slap hammer it out. 3/8ths works in 45 & 50 cals. I only do this after I attempt to work some powder in and shoot it out.
Sawfish
Member
Brownell's sells brass squib rods in various sizes that are close fits in the bore. I carry both a 44 and a 35 caliber in my range bag. I have only used them a couple of times in over 25 years, but they were worth the money them.
4barrel
Member
I wonder if anyone has used a firecracker in an empty case in the cylinder to remove? I have brass rods and hickory rods and aluminum rods and never had to do more. I have had about 4 squibs since the 1970s and the hardest to remove was a plated hbwc because of a low powder charge. Seems like a firecracker would be safe enough. Just do it and don't tell anyone.
Twice? You got 2 squibs? Hopefully it wasn't from the same batch!I lucked out with this one. Easy to remove with pliers. Still have it sitting on a window sill.
This one was tougher. I tapped it in with a brass hammer, got it further with a brass punch, then packed in a shotgun patch and got it the rest of the way with an M16 cleaning rod. The patch was there to keep the end from sliding off the nose of the bullet and wedging against the barrel. Even though the steel of a cleaning rod is pretty mild, it can't be good for the bore.
In 30+ years I've only had one...
hkcavalier
US Veteran
Twice? You got 2 squibs? Hopefully it wasn't from the same batch!
It was the same batch of .38Spl factory reloads. After that second one with the 27-2, I took it back to the seller with the pics on my phone. He gave me a full refund.
In another transaction, I bought a 500rd box of reloaded .223 from the same "manufacturer" that only contained 400 rounds. I only knew this because I put all the ammo on stripper clips that evening and the piles didn't add up. Same seller too, he made up the difference out of another box.
No rifle/pistol squibs yet, but I had a shotgun shell fizzle. Hunting ducks in the rain with an unsealed shotshell reload and water entered it. Kind of went "Phoooot!" and pellets fell all over me. The wad was sticking out of the muzzle. I just grabbed it and yanked it out.
I have had 3 occasions where the projectiles have left the case and jammed the action of my 929. All these were factory federal syntec the lipstick ones. I don’t think the synthetic coating let’s the case grip the projectiles. Only use these in my Para now.
Only because you bought the rods. Don't you know anything about reloading, gunsmithing, and life in general?
Beemer-mark
Member
Wow, I use a screw driver small than the bore and drive it out with whatever I have handy. Often the revolver or Pistol butt.
Qc Pistolero
Member
Any rod you use,make sure its clean.Alu rods are known to easily inbed hard this and that and you don't want any hard this and that to be rubbing against the bore of your pet handgun while you're whacking on that rod down the tube.
