Stainless revolver struggle averted!

[RIDE-RED 350r]

For cylinder rings on SS revolvers, I use an eraser.

I'm going to have to try that. Thanks for the tip!

460 rings are the most miserably stubborn friggen things I have ever attempted to clean off any firearm, bar none.

 

[KevinCH]

I'm going to have to try that. Thanks for the tip!

460 rings are the most miserably stubborn friggen things I have ever attempted to clean off any firearm, bar none.

If a pencil eraser won't work, try an ink eraser - they are a little more abrasive.

I've also used the worn Scotch-brite side of those yellow & green scrubby sponges that are used around kitchens & baths. Cut it into a small square; I keep it wet with either a solvent or oil & go slowly.

 

[iwanna]

+1

Keep it away from your blued guns!

Be careful with nickel also. The cloth is abrasive. If you get too aggressive, you can rub through the finish. Don't ask me how I know.

 

[loeman]

This stuff is amazing, too -- and a whole lot cheaper.

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/61UXen5QEGL._SL1500_.jpg

I tried this the day Pisgah posted. I just happened to have some in my cabinet. It IS amazing! It cleaned off the front of my 681 cylinder in no time and its never looked better, but like all abrasives one should use caution and always remember to not be too heavy handed.

 

[Pisgah]

I tried this the day Pisgah posted. I just happened to have some in my cabinet. It IS amazing! It cleaned off the front of my 681 cylinder in no time and its never looked better, but like all abrasives one should use caution and always remember to not be too heavy handed.

Every product mentioned so far, except the #9, is abrasive to some degree. They fall into the category of "micro-abrasives". There is little chance they will effect any measurable dimensional change in a gun (for instance, some fear "wallowing-out" chamber mouths, an event unlikely in the extreme), but they can and will remove bluing if applied with a great deal of vigor. Best to limit them to stainless guns or, on blued guns, at most a very light occasional use on the front of severely fouled cylinders.

 

[eTripper]

Thanks for the heads-up on the 'Birchwood/Casey Lead-Removal Cloth. This will be another weapon in my battery for removing carbon heat-rings. I have been using both Flitz, and Maas with great results.

 

[Marine Corps Air]

After reading past Forum postings and calling S&W CS, I have another option for you. Hoppe's has an "Elite" product line that does not have ammonia in it, which is harmful to nickel finishes. I also believe that it is a water based cleaner. It comes in an 8 oz pump spray bottle:

Amazon.com: Hoppe's 8 Ounce Elite Gun Cleaner: Sports & Outdoors@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/412mKVNNo5L.@@AMEPARAM@@412mKVNNo5L

I use it for both my nickel and stainless steel firearms. Non abrasive, it usually easily begins to dissolve the carbon with no problems. Soft toothbrushes provide the needed additional "horsepower". I finish the jobs with Mother's Mag Wheel Polish (with a soft cloth and TLC) and mine are restored to the same condition after returning from the range that they were when I first brought them home from the LGS.

I'm not saying that the solutions from the other Forum members aren't effective - this is just another option for you.