BigBill
Absent Comrade
How do adjust the strain screw for the spring?
How much do you tighten it up?
How much do you tighten it up?
Strain screw adjustment?
- Thread starter BigBill
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The strain screw is not an adjustment tool
You tighten it up completely
Otherwise you run the risk of the screw backing out
You tighten it up completely
Otherwise you run the risk of the screw backing out
And if you need more torque you can put an expired large primer in front of the screw next to the spring before you tighten it up.
As noted, the strain screw is not an adjustment. It is designed to be tight. If you should need more length, then somebody has filed the end and you need a replacement screw. Putting a primer on the end might be a way to check but never a permanent solution.
minconrevo
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Note that there are different strain screws for different models and round or square butt variations within a model. If you must replace a strain screw that has been filed down past the fired LP fix be sure to get the correct one.
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Jason Demond
Member
As said. It is not an adjustment screw. You tighten it up and leave it, otherwise you can get light firing pin strikes.
However, it was common for people to shorten them to get a lighter trigger pull. That could work, but could also lead to the aforementioned light primer strikes.
Thanks I figured I ask here you guys are awesome. I have read some miss guided confusing info in the past where they lighten the strain screw to get a lighter action. That’s false info thanks to you guys.
I seen on you tube a online gunsmith sees some guys cut the trigger return spring. Originally it’s 17 coils, my m28 is 16 coils I guess the PO cut it. That’s another post. Thanks again.
I seen on you tube a online gunsmith sees some guys cut the trigger return spring. Originally it’s 17 coils, my m28 is 16 coils I guess the PO cut it. That’s another post. Thanks again.
That's what's called....
... "The world's cheapest trigger job". But it's a bogus way to get a lighter trigger. It's like cutting out your mufflers to make your car go faster.
... "The world's cheapest trigger job". But it's a bogus way to get a lighter trigger. It's like cutting out your mufflers to make your car go faster.
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Targets Guy
US Veteran
I bought a used K-38 some years ago and was getting a lot of light strikes with it. Reading this forum I learned what has been stated above: tighten the darn thing. Mine was about four turns out. Tightened it and no issues since. I now check it before and after each range trip.
i will love you forever and always
i will love you forever and always
Borderboss
Member
Replacing the factory mainspring with a Wolff Power Rib mainspring is an improvement, but it's best to get a Wolff long strain screw so that you can adjust the length of the screw to properly tighten the mainspring. Using the factory strain screw with a Wolff Power Rib mainspring will give an outstanding trigger pull that is totally unreliable for ignition.
YES IT IS........A permanent solution. It won't come out........Been there. Done that.......Got the tee shirt.......Bet you never tried it.
smithra_66
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All the way until it stops!
shawn mccarver
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No. No. No. Never, ever adjust the strain screw. Did I mention not to adjust the strain screw? Ever.
It is designed to be screwed right down, in which case it will not back out.
Unfortunately, there are those who try shortening it in order to have the same effect when it is screwed down. Do what you want as it sounds like a range toy question, but if you do, NEVER, EVER rely on it again as a defense weapon.
If I didn't say before, DO NOT attempt to adjust the strain screw.
shawn mccarver
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The best "action job" is to shoot your revolver about 10,000 rounds.
If you bought it used, put in a fresh return spring and mainspring if you have ANY reason to believe they have been modified.
625-7
Member
And after replacing the aforementioned springs it is best to shoot the afflicted revolver another 10,000 rounds and provide the forum members with an accurate range report to affirm the repair was in proper order.
NO TRUER WORDS HAVE EVER BEEN SPOKEN. Funny some buy a new gun and immediately start changing parts(thinking they can better the engineers at S&W).......Them COMPLAIN when the FTF FTE and other problems. I've always wore mine in buy shooting them.....No aftermarket parts needed(grips/stocks excluded)
Borderboss
Member
Maybe your standards on "shootibility" is different than others. The last two new S&Ws I bought needed help.
The Model 69 I bought had a double action pull that was a bit heavy. You might have 10,000 rounds of .44 Spl/.44 Mag rounds laying around and the time to burn them in the hope of "wearing the gun in", but I have neither. A couple of Wolff springs and some internal polishing and oiling took care of it with 100% reliability.
Then there's the 617 I bought last fall. It had a trigger pull only an S&W attorney would love. The DA pull was impossible to use with any level of accuracy, it was so heavy. The SA pull was double any other S&W I've ever handled. This thing never should have left the factory. Here again, a couple of Wolff springs, some internal polishing, and some oiling took care of the issue with 100% reliability.
IMHO, it's been a few decades since a gun left a factory in a 100% satisfactory state.
I am going to slightly disagree with this statement
It does not require firing 10,000 rounds . . . . . dry firing 10,000 times with your snap caps will achieve the same goal of smoothing things out
