Trigger Stud Replacement Video

[686PC]

Hello folks,

I came across video of
a smith I watch regularly replacing the trigger boss of a Model 29.

While I had read about the procedure, I never seen it done.

Since it’s hard to come by revolversmithing content on YouTube, I’m posting it here for your enjoyment.

Anvil 065: S&W model 29-2 Trigger stud replacement - YouTube

Cheers,
686PC

 

[chief38]

I have actually done two (Hammer Stud - similar repair) such repair jobs on S&W's over the years. The only thing I did differently is I did not peen the end over into a rivet like he did. I used Loctite to secure it in place and figured that it would be virtually impossible to come out since the Side-plate would prevent it from doing so even if the Loctite failed. I spent a whole lot of time measuring the depth super carefully, polishing the end (keeping it perfectly flat) and fitting it in as best I could. The end result is that unless you were specifically looking for the repair, no one would ever see it. With a light and an Optivisor the small circle (end of the pin) can be detected but the repair jobs came out better than I could have imagined.

Not only did I save a lot of money, there was no need to completely refinish the guns and I had the satisfaction of doing it myself! The M60 was easy to blend the pin in and on the Blued gun - I had to be incredibly careful and spot blued the new pin. All in all they came out GREAT!

Note: This type of job can be done at home as long as one has the knowledge, patience, skills, tools and most importantly the mind set to get it done correctly. Experience with metal working, tools, tapping etc. is a must! This is not a repair job for the novice or guys who are "mechanically challenged" - those fella's should send it to S&W for this repair job.

The biggest problem is in making the part itself if you can not find a replacement part. There use to be after market replacements available (had to be fitted) but I do not know of they still are. A small Lathe is definitely a plus if making from scratch!

What I was a bit pissed off over is that the guy in the video did not show the final results on the outside of the gun! This leads me to believe the cosmetics were not terrific. I guess we'll never know.......

 

[armorer951]

No offense to DeWalt, but I had to laugh when he placed the frame down on the work table and drilled an "exact" centered hole in the site of the original pin. Spotting this stud's position and proper vertical alignment is about as critical as it gets in terms of a result that would include a long lasting, functioning trigger with integrity, especially in single action.

I was also mystified why Mark mentioned "making another one of these up" when talking about the replacement stud, when the factory part is available. His function testing the action under spring tension with the sideplate off also made me cringe. Definitely not a good practice.
Just an opinion, but because this part of the frame and trigger interface is literally at the heart of the revolver in terms of safety and proper function, and upon completion, requires re-finishing, I would certainly consider this repair to be one of those things that should only be attempted by a master gunsmith with the knowledge, experience and machine tools available.

I would love to examine the actual result of this work first hand, and to see how the repair holds up over time, especially under the recoil of the 44 magnum. Indeed, it still is, in fact, hard to come by "good revolversmithing content" on the internet.

 

[Hondo44]

I did more than laugh, I grimaced. I'm only an amateur gunsmith and have to say he will not ever be working on my guns! Talk about making a relatively easy task more complicated.....'nough said!

 

[Milton]

I also wondered about that video! I almost lost it when he hand drilled that hole.When he began working the completed action with the side plate off I could not help but cringe. I would not want him "slicking-up"one of my revolvers!

 

[chief38]

I would think his repair (although a bit crude in my book) will stand up for some time. What I cringed at was his amateurish peening the stud on the outside of the Frame. That is probably why he did not show the end result - probably looked sketchy and ugly!

The Hammer Studs I used were from the Factory but I have not tried to order one in many years so I don't know if they are still available. There were also several versions over the years. There was also a version made that actually looked like a rivet - don't remember who made them but they were made to look like a finished stud of old vintage models.

I lucked out in that on the M60 I repaired, the Stud did not break off - it just came out. The hole was perfectly round and no drilling was required. That repair was easy especially because touching up Stainless is simple. The Blued gun was much harder and took much longer. I would NEVER attempt drilling out a Stud with a hand held drill! No way it would be precise! Thankfully I have a pretty descent Drill Press with extremely small run-out.

I understand than Professional Gunsmiths are taught that the proper way to do this repair would require the gun be refinished. As someone who has done this twice without refinishing the gun, I can say that is not necessarily true. I will agree that no matter how good you are, the job will never look 100% perfect, but with a lot of time and patience it can still come out very respectable without a refinish - NOT like the job Mark did. I will attempt to take a picture of my repair job (if I can take a descent close up with my iphone). The main reason I did not want to refinish the gun is because it is a somewhat collectible model and I did not want it refinished. At least in my case the repair was less painful that refinishing a pristine vintage gun.

 

[chief38]

Here are a few pictures of one of the repair jobs I've done on a Hammer Stud (basically same as a Trigger Stud). Not perfect, but unless you are within inches and looking for it under a bright light, it is not something that stands out. I believe my repair will last forever and was the right choice since this very early and pristine I/J Frame gun and I did not want it refinished! Perfect? No, but better than the alternative - at least to me.

Pic #1) taken under very bright light and at about 3 inches
Pic #2 taken at about 10 inches - can't even see the repaired Stud
Pic #3 just to show other side