Triple Lock center pin

[Skizzer]

Have a 5" Triple Lock, .44, and recently discovered that the center pin will move completely out of the back of the extractor star, cylinder open, of course. The pin seems to fit pretty tight, but exhibits no spring action; just slides when pressed w/finger, or a punch. Took the extractor rod apart to see if I could repair the problem, but can't see what's missing, or how the center pin is normally held w/in the extractor rod housing. Center pin spring seems to still be there, altho obviously not functioning. The Numrich schematics of a Model 29 haven't helped my understanding. Can someone explain how the center pin is normally "captured" within the extractor rod?

Also, previous to this discovery I had shot the gun w/o problem; seemed to function OK.

 

[oneeyedpete]

Have you checked the schematic on Numrich? That is usually where I go to decipher guns I am not familiar with. It might be perfectly normal but it pays to check!

 

[Skizzer]

Yeah, I did, but only the Model 29 schem, assuming they didn't have one on the TL (too old & rare), and that the newer N frame would still be close enough on the design & components of the extractor rod and center pin. Very possibly a faulty assumption!

 

[Skizzer]

oneeyedpete,

Looks like I was badly mistaken according to a 2/19/15 post from Hondo44 on a broken center pin post. Apparently the TL center pin spring is arrayed differently from even the 2nd & 3rd Model HE's, let alone the Model 29. Guess that's what I get for "assuming"...

 

[Hondo44]

Yes the TL is different by not having an integral collar for a spring seat machined on the ctr pin. I believe your center pin is only missing the tiny "E" clip and washer.

Here's what your ctr pin should look like with the groove for the "E" clip:

Photo by delta-419

Just google "E" clips. Here's one place you can get them:

https://www.autozone.com/screws-pin...hB_f8WCsHnChdcq8guxoCfBUQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

[Skizzer]

Thanks, Jim! Exactly what I needed to know! Yes, I can now finally see that it is the E clip that's missing. Great photo! Also, really appreciate the source info on E clips. Thanks very much!

 

[Skizzer]

Jim,

Was able to get the E clip at Autozone and am installing, thanks again!
Unfortunately, I closed the cylinder with the extractor and center pin still removed, not realizing that the thumb piece would no longer open it. Is it the "center lock" (bolt plunger? Having trouble reading the schematic) that's holding it? Haven't found a way to unlock it so far, any suggestions?

Mike

 

[cgt4570]

Wow, that's a tough one. I'm pretty good with rebuilding vintage Smiths but only have one TL (.44 7.5" target). I looked it over and I don't see an easy way to unlock the 'third' lock without the center pin and ejector rod installed. Never heard of that happening before. Hopefully one of our experts knows a trick.
My only thought is working a trimmed feeler gauge in from the right side to depress the locking plunger and spring?

Jim,

Was able to get the E clip at Autozone and am installing, thanks again!
Unfortunately, I closed the cylinder with the extractor and center pin still removed, not realizing that the thumb piece would no longer open it. Is it the "center lock" (bolt plunger? Having trouble reading the schematic) that's holding it? Haven't found a way to unlock it so far, any suggestions?

Mike

 

[Skizzer]

Yeah, leave it to me to be "creative"! My first TL and I'm not real familiar w/them; never dreamed it could lockup like this. So, hate to be dense, but what locking plunger and spring are you referring to? All I can think of is the center pin end functioning as the locking plunger and that's removed.
Appreciate the help, Chris.

Mike

 

[Skizzer]

Chris,

I figured it out: The front lock also controls the middle lock, so pushing forward on the button that protrudes rearward on the front lock will move the middle lock to release the cylinder. Blind hogs & acorns, I guess! Jim is no doubt having a hearty laugh on this one! Thanks again for the help.

Mike

 

[Hondo44]

Good work Mike. That's the solution and you found it!

 

[series guy]

Great thread with some excellent information. Just finished fixing my Triple Lock with the same issue. The photo really helped. Luckily Autozone is one mile from my house.

 

[nicfarion]

Just for advise if anyone needs the e clip it is available in a multi pack on amazon. They're stainless too so good quality and it's small enough it fits in the center tube. I had the same problem my center pin would just float in the tube. It's a one of design for the triple lock and it can't be interchanged with a 2nd model one without replace cylinder and tube I believe.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Hondo44]

Correct, and add the 2nd model and later style spring seat collar.

 

[Skizzer]

Jim,
I notice that the center pin on my TL does not protrude out of the extractor (attempted to attach photos but am apparently too technically challenged to follow the FAQ instructions!) as on a Pro-Model 10 I have, as well as my Model 29. Is this the right condition of a TL? Because the center pin is "forward sprung", as you've mentioned in a previous thread?

If TL's are supposed to be that way, how do the thumb piece and bolt move the center pin far enough to release the mid-, and front locks?

 

[Hondo44]

Once again, your thinking is right on the money!

Because the ctr pin is forward sprung, you'll notice there's no divot in the recoil shield needed to 'cam' the ctr pin out of the way when closing the cyl.

When the cyl is fully closed the front locking bolt in the barrel shroud then pushes the ctr pin to the rear and holds it in the recoil shield locking hole about the same length as other models with rear sprung ctr pins. At that point the ctr pin becomes a rear sprung part. So the thumb piece pushes it forward like other models to unlock the cyl. All three locks are unlocked simultaneous. Cool huh?

Just a little more complicated than it needed to be. The collar could have been machined integral with the pin like later models and eliminate the E clip and washer to simplify the ctr pin. But being forward sprung eliminated the machining time to put the divot in the recoil shield which was a nice touch.

 

[Skizzer]

Great explanation Jim, and a relief to know that there's nothing more wrong w/that assembly - thanks! I had noted the lack of the recoil shield divot, but thought they may have just not evolved to that, yet. Apparently the center pin had lost the E clip some time back, allowing the pin to stick out enough to strike the recoil shield, because I've noticed a little marring on the edge of the shield.

Again, appreciate the help.

Mike