trr8 mising hammer block?

[SquarePizza]

So I recently snagged a used trr8, it was pretty gunky and it didn't have the power rib mainspring like I figured they all came with.

No matters, I have plenty of extra springs...

Pop off the side plate and ***... no hammer block?!

And the bloody thing still fires. Actually its been firing for a long time without it by the looks of it, as the hammer has worn the finish off the inside of the frame around the firing pin.

I thought these guns were not supposed to fire without the hammer block in place?

Looks like I'm off to ebay/numrich for a replacement.

 

[Pizza Bob]

You seem to be confusing the hammer block with a transfer bar. The hammer block, as used in S&W revolvers, prevents the hammer from contacting the firing pin (in frame mounted FP guns) or the primer (in Hammer nose FP guns) - it physically blocks the hammer unless the trigger is pulled which lowers the block and allows full travel of the hammer. So removing it would not prevent the gun from firing - quite the opposite - it probably would not pass the drop test used in some states.

The transfer bar, as used in Ruger revolvers raises when the trigger is pulled so that the hammer strikes the bar, which transfers the energy to the firing pin. Without the transfer bar in place the gun would not fire because the hammer would not reach the firing pin.

Adios,

Pizza Bob

 

[UncleEd]

Original owner may have inadvertently left it out or did so on purpose.

Back in the day, meaning when I was a lot younger, I'd find Model 14s without the hammer block, the target shooters
believing it was a way to make the gun smoother.

 

[SquarePizza]

Whoops, that's my bad. I always assumed it worked just like a transfer bar. Thank you for letting me know.

 

[steelslaver]

So removing it would not prevent the gun from firing - quite the opposite - it probably would not pass the drop test used in some states.
Pizza Bob

I wonder how far they drop them and on what. I don't advocate removing the hammer block, but have some older guns without that feature. Seams to me you would have to drop it hard enough to break the hammer pivot stud or the nub off the hammer or rebound slide to get one to fire dropping it without the block. That would take quit a blow right on the hammer. I don't climb ladders over hard surfaces while wearing a gun very often.

 

[UncleEd]

Hammer block was put into Victory model .38s, purportedly after a sailor tripped and his revolver hit the steel deck on its hammer.
He was killed.

Hence the "S" designation added to the Victory model serial numbers about 1942-43.

 

[TLE]

A lot of competition shooters and said to be gunsmiths remove the part as part of a trigger job. It has never bothered me so I leave it in plus if it's an IDPA competition not having it will get you disqualified at the equipment check station at the larger matches.

 

[kas9412]

I recently purchased a used Model 14-4. It shoots great, but doesn't rattle when I shake it like my other S&W revolvers. I suspect that the hammer block has been removed, but I've yet to take the side plate off to find out for sure...

kas