What SD Ammo in an Airweight J-Frame?

[USMC(Ret)22408]

Remington +P 158gr LHP (R38S12) shoots to POA from my 2.5 inch 642. Got some Underwood Ammo 158 gr Hard Cast, but they are a bit much from the airweight.

 

[Archie]

I suggest using the heaviest bullet weight you can tolerate to shoot for one or two cylinders full. Make sure the load you select will work properly in your revolver and shoots close enough to the sights not to worry about 'holding off'.

 

[ameridaddy]

Florida J Frame -"135 SB version is best in sub 4" barrels."
I missed that. Thanks for the tip!

 

[Irn-Bru]

Lehigh Defense has some outstanding rounds for self defense. Pretty new on the market but just check out some of the YouTube video's.

 

[Stargater]

The choice for ammo has always intrigued me. If it's winter, people need a good round that will penetrate heavy clothing yet expand in flesh. In the summer, a slug that will expand rapidly in a human body will be preferred. Back in the 80s, a lot of people were using the Glaser Safety Slug, which had a reputation for vicious expansion in people wearing light clothing, but it wasn't so effective (or so I heard) against people wearing heavy coats.

I just laze out these days with a good 110gr JHP +P. I had a Treasury agent friend who gave me a couple of boxes of what they use, and I have them in my Rossi M88 to this day. I've never really worried about whether there was anything better. I've always wanted a few boxes of the FBI load that has such a good reputation, but the stuff is priced like it's one of these premium superstopper loads with pre-fragmented bullets held together by a polished copper jacket and a silver base blessed by Russian Orthodox priests for use against werewolves and Eastern European vampires! In the old days, good ammo was 50 rounds for 20 dollars. Now it's 20 rounds for 50 dollars! I'm old enough to remember people drilling holes in their lead round-nose bullets, then criss-crossing them with jewelers saws. Sounds ridiculous now, but you work with what you have. Some even filled the holes with various toxins believing that even if wounded, the people or animals they shot would eventually die. (And they did...we all eventually die from something!)

I think as you get older you worry less about what kind of rocket rounds are best. Still, I'd like to know of a good place to buy that damn FBI load.



These small-frame .38s (Rossi M88, top) and S&W 60 are
all-steel .38s, but I've heard conflicting reports on how well
they stand up to +P loads.

---

 

[exdetsgt]

I used to carry a Model 36 or an old lemon-squeezer Airweight while on duty. The 36 was tolerable but the Airweight almost destroyed my middle finger. After I got out of that line of business I bought a 442. It concealed well and carried like a feather. But hurt my hand and you didn't want to go to the range with 100 rounds of any kind of ammo.

One day, at the range, I noticed a friend shooting an SP101 with a 2 and 1/4" barrel. I had never seen one before although I had heard of them. So he let me shoot it. It was larger than a J-frame but smaller than a K-frame and considerably heavier than my 442. I bought one a few days later because after 100 rounds my hand didn't feel like it had been abused. I've still got my Smith K-frames. The trigger on my Model 10, made in the 50's, is still the standard by which I compare all triggers. None that I've shot so far can match it. And I really don't care what sort of .38 special or .357 magnum I use in a snub nose. It is, after all, just a "belly gun" as my father used to say.

 

[Gunfiter]

Vintage S&W 125 gr Nyclad swchp. I know, its old. But it has been stored indoors, is quite accurate, and is still consistently reliable. Plus, I've got lots of it, so practicing with my carry ammo isn't a problem. Modest recoil and good expansion. Old School still rules!

I carried the 9mm Nyclad in my 940 w/ full moon clips. Great round!! In my 49, the 135 gr. GDHP SB.

 

[Otreb]

I have some buffalo bore Barnes +p 110gr on order, plan to try it out across the chrono from a Taurus (No) View, the 442-2, 242 and a 4" .38 K frame. It looks promising.

 

[Goodnews]

129 gr Fed Hydroshok +P

 

[wrangler5]

< snip > I think as you get older you worry less about what kind of rocket rounds are best. Still, I'd like to know of a good place to buy that damn FBI load.---

The Remington +P 158g lead HP is probably a current equivalent. Although it's out of stock/no backorder at Midway at the moment, it does come into stock periodically. If you're interested, you can set up to get an email notice when it's available. That's how I got my current supply.

While it's 62 cents/round (plus shipping), that's only about half the cost of the Buffalo Bore equivalent. (BB does offer a standard pressure round with this bullet, that actually goes exactly as fast as Remington's +P out of my guns, and is advertised as using low-flash powder. Remington doesn't make any claims about powder flash.) It's also less than twice the price of the cheapest "plinking/practice" 158g rounds at Midway.

 

[686wheelgun]

Corbon 125 grain +P in the gun and I also carry a couple of speed strips with Speer Gold Dot 135 grain +P

 

[Sc0]

My Snubby Air-weight is a 317.
I loaded all 10 cylinders with Sub-Sonic 40 Grain.

You have 10rds in a 8rd cylinder?

In a 340PD I carry .38+p FMJ's for 3 holes and the last two are .357mags. Thinking of switching to CCI .38 or .357 with aluminum cases to save some weight. (All my SD pistols are loaded with FMJ ammo.)

 

[kroskam]

Concealed Carry Ammo

I have an older Model 37 Chief Airweight and am not supposed to use +P ammo in it. I use the Federal Premium 38 Special 110 grain Hydra-Shok JHP Ammo in mine that is specifically designed for Low Recoil but has hard hitting Jacketed Hollow Points. I only have 5 rounds so I want to make each one count.

 

[Smithbrother]

Watching shooting the bull convinced me that Critical Defense rounds were a good choice for short barrel wepons in SD scenarios. I carry them in my 60, 640 and 325. I also use Critical Duty in my 66-8 because of the longer 4.25 inch barrel. I would buy the Lehigh Defense but at about $3 per bullet . . . no.

 

[paladin**]

Make mine Remington Golden Saber +P 125 JHP. I also cary these in my 686 and (horror of horrors) Ruger LCR. I have found this round to perform well and is under rated as Remington does not (or has not in the past) actively solicit LEO and Military sales.

 

[Tyree1867]

1969 Model 38 with Buffalo Bore's 158gr LSWCHP. The standard pressure "FBI" load.

 

[adams484]

Yep it is free so far...

I agree with most of this but at the range you would typically use a J-Frame it really doesn't make a whole lot of difference.

You get typically 5 chances to disable your attacker with J-Frame at what is probably not going to be a lot of distance. The bullet used will be less important then shot placement.

+P would be my choice in a reliable fragmenting load. I would also carry a 45 or 10mm as a backup.

No in all seriousness, shot placement is going to determine the outcome more so then the load you are using. Head shot may or may not disable a big attacker but it is a good bet. A groin shot that will bust the hip will put them on the ground pretty reliably as well. But a heart shot will not necessarily stop them in time if they have knife. If they have a gun your probably screwed anyway so the head shot is the best but not certain.

But one thing for certain a magic bullet is not going to save your butt it will be situational awareness and shot placement. You will get 5 chances maybe six in some revolvers better be sure you can hit em where it counts before they can shoot you. Remember they are not deer and can possibly shoot back. You LEO's out there, how many times do you arrest a low life thug that doesn't at least have a knife? What was that... a 21ft rule? Seems like the effective range for a snubby.

Let me start with:

"It's a free country, all'yall can shoot whatever you want in a snub nose .38"

With that said however, let's consider a few things:

1) The standard pressure .38 Special is considered my many to be the "floor" for self defense (along with the 9mm in a semiautomatic). However that assumption is based on the performance of a .38 Special in a 4" service revolver.

2) Out of a 2" snub nose revolver, you're going to lose between 75 fps and 100 fps in velocity with a standard pressure .38 depending on the specific load. In field use, that's enough to put the standard pressure .38 Special from a 2" revolver in the same class as a .380 ACP out of a 3.5"-4" barrel.

There is a great deal of irony to be found when you encounter someone who's a fan of the standard pressure .38 in a snub nose revolver with 5 rounds, but who looks down his nose at someone carrying a PP in .380 ACP with 8 rounds in the pistol.

3) .38 +P loads lose even more velocity going from a 4" barrel to a 2" barrel, but they start out a lot faster. So even though they'll lose about 150 fps relative to a 4" service revolver, you'll still get velocities in the 900fps-950 fps range with 158gr and 125gr bullets respectively.

4) With a decently designed grip .38 +P loads are still quite manageable even in an lightweight revolver, so my advice is if you're going to use a 2" lightweight revolver for self defense, use a +P load. Don't kid yourself that 2" standard pressure results will be the same as 4" standard pressure results.

-----

Personally, I've never seen the advantage of the lightweight J-frame revolvers. The all steel Model 36 and Model 60 revolvers are much more durable, allowing you to practice regularly with a substantial number of rounds without wearing them out or loosening them up, they are easier to shoot accurately and rapidly due to the extra 6-7 ounces, but that extra weight does not prevent you from carrying one IWB all day long in comfort.

 

[gwpercle]

I have a 1968 model 60. I like the gun. It's not rated for +P. Granted, some folks say I can use +P, but I'm not going to do it. I get the point about the 380 comparison etc. but, my question is this. I'm going to carry my 1968 model 60. What's the best SD round for that weapon (non +P)? And, what's the best, most economical target round go be using in it? I just purchased some American Eagle 38 Special 158 grain lead round nose for target purpose, assuming that was a good choice?

Thanks for the input.

158 grain round nose is a good choice. Before the invention of +P , special hollow points and self-defense loads, a lot of cops carried them and probably terminated a lot of bad guys with them. That was before we found out the load was such a pathetic killer. More than likely your fixed sights are regulated to this exact load and should be fine for practice.....and may not be that bad for defense use either.
Gary

 

[elm_creek_smith]

I have a Model 38 (no dash) & like to practice with the EXACT same ammo I carry for SD.
So +P is out.

I don't understand practicing with one type of ammo & carrying another.
Doesn't that defeat the purpose of practicing???

What we're practicing is sight alignment/trigger control. At the ranges I will use the Model 37 Chiefs Special Airweight, the difference in POA/POI is minimal. In an actual defensive shooting event, I won't feel the recoil nor hear the report. Been there/done that with a .357 Magnum in a hallway. My ears hurt and rang for days (still ring thanks to 20 years on tanks), but I only heard two pops.

Seeing its an Airweight, a steady diet of +P ammo would not be good for the gun.

So I make my own 125 gr LRN.

Ya, it's not the "best" bullet, but with a 38 Spl, placement is king.

Just my 2¢

What ever works for you works for you. The first ammo my last employer issued me was 18 rounds of 158 grain RNL .38 special ammunition. "That's what we issue!" was what I heard when I objected to 1899 ammunition. The only time it saw the inside of a chamber was on the range when I fired it up.

 

[diyj98]

I've always worried more about finding an accurate load that shoots to point of aim than the bullet weight or design.