What to do with this Model 63? UPDATED WITH RESULTS OF REAM JOB.

[H Richard]

My 10 round 617-6 was sticky, and after the chamber reaming with the standard finishing reamer, it has no problems. I can shoot a couple hundred rounds with no extraction problems. This is like the 7th or 8th 22 I have done this to and all work just great.

 

[Ole Joe Clark]

Please don't let BUBBA work on it!

Have a blessed day,

Leon

 

[Pisgah]

This is not an unusual thing. My son has a 63, and I have a 17-1 and after some shooting the empties get very sticky. I just run a brush and dry cloth through them after each 25-30 shots and the problem is much improved. I found that keeping the chambers dry makes a big difference.

To the best of my recollection I have owned 8 S&W .22 revolvers over the past 45 years or so. Every single one of them had sticky extraction, a couple after only one cylinder-full, the rest after no more than 2-3 cylinder-fulls. The dry-brush-as-needed expedient eventually cures the problem without doing any honing of chambers.

 

[Texas Star]

My M-34 was terribly sticky. I sold it. I never bought another .22 revolver. I use a Ruger MK II auto in that role, or use a M-60-4 .38 as a small trail gun.

I feel much better with the added power of the .38, anyway.

 

[Muley Gil]

I had a blue M34 for a number of years. Extraction was OK; my problem was DA firing was iffy. I usually had at least one misfire in two cylinder fulls. SA was fine. I cleaned the chambers, the recesses for the case heads, I went to a heavier main springer. I never did get reliable DA ignition.

 

[raljr1]

Just for info sake, and I have not tried this with my model 63, but I have a browning buckmark that will not chamber or extract brass 22 cases but works flawlessly with nickel plated cases. And yes, my 63 suffers from sticky extraction....but I am going to try nickel cases next time.

 

[crsides]

For those who shy away from reaming the chambers, like me, I took the plunge and reamed 6 of my K22's and kit guns. If you can unscrew the forward side plate screw and remove the cylinder, it is a piece of cake. The worst part is cleaning the heavy oil out when you're thru. All you need is a vice and piece of leather to hold the cylinder, a chamber finishing reamer with a T bar attached, and cutting oil. Turn the reamer clockwise and never reverse the direction. Clean the reamer after each chamber, and more often if you are removing a lot of metal. There is a shoulder on the reamer to let you know when you're done. It will start turning freely. Clean the cylinder as you normally would and reinstall.

 

[BC38]

For those who shy away from reaming the chambers, like me, I took the plunge and reamed 6 of my K22's and kit guns. If you can unscrew the forward side plate screw and remove the cylinder, it is a piece of cake. The worst part is cleaning the heavy oil out when you're thru. All you need is a vice and piece of leather to hold the cylinder, a chamber finishing reamer with a T bar attached, and cutting oil. Turn the reamer clockwise and never reverse the direction. Clean the reamer after each chamber, and more often if you are removing a lot of metal. There is a shoulder on the reamer to let you know when you're done. It will start turning freely. Clean the cylinder as you normally would and reinstall.

Speaking for myself only, I have no hesitancy about using a reamer. The issue is getting one.

 

[diecidecimi]

reaming

Some months ago i went in these threads, and I saved the links.
Interesting, to me.
1960 K22 chamber diameter vs. SAAMI sporting specs

and

Finish reaming K22s, or, How To Solve Difficult Extraction In .22lr S&Ws

 

[les.b]

That's some good dope for anyone thinking about doing this operation!! Thanks for sharing the links,

Best Regards, Les

 

[sigp220.45]

Here's an update. I figured I'd rather put it here than face the guffaws of the actual gunsmiths in the gunsmithing section.

I ordered a .22 Magnum cylinder reamer from 4D Reamers in Kalispell, MT. 34 bucks plus shipping. The rental is for 7 days, but they give you 17 days from when it is shipped to cover transit time. (Doyle is compelled to sit on all new mail.)

There is no handle, just the reamer. I bought a cheapo tap handle from Tractor Supply (8 bucks) but it wouldn't tighten enough to hold the reamer securely. I bought a slightly better one from Lowes that tightened like a drill chuck (15 bucks) and it worked fine. The cutting oil (4 bucks) from Tractor Supply was good.

Then I sat down, poured a glass, put War Horse on, and started twisting (over a trash can).

Initially I wrapped the cylinder with blue painter's tape, but the oil got on it and the tape just turned. I used a cloth and a good grip and started making progress.

It didn't seem like I was getting anywhere at first, but I took the reamer out often, sprayed it off with WD40, drenched it in oil, and before long the first chamber was done. The whole thing was done before War Horse was over.

Mixed bag of .22 WMRs chambered fine. At the range I had a hard time with the cylinder not wanting to close and being hard to cycle. Turns out some of the metal chips got under the ejector star. Once I blasted them out all was good. As as a bonus, .22 LRs and Shorts also shot and ejected just fine.

So there you have it. The forum friends who suggested the chambers were out-of-round were right, I think. When twisting the reamer there was a distinct "resistance/no resistance" feel. They are sure round now.

Thanks to all who chimed in. I hope this was helpful to someone.

Here is my dog Randy about to catch a ball, as a small bonus.

 

[ColbyBruce]

So you are shooting .22 Short/Long/Long Rifle and .22 mag through it with no problems? Don't forget .22 WRF.

 

[sigp220.45]

So you are shooting .22 Short/Long/Long Rifle and .22 mag through it with no problems? Don't forget .22 WRF.

Good point. I found a box in my stash and I'll try them tomorrow.

 

[Hondo44]

Here's an update. I figured I'd rather put it here than face the guffaws of the actual gunsmiths in the gunsmithing section.

Bravo! Feels good to fix something like this one's self.
The new 22WRF from Winch and CCI are very good including CCI's Defense load. And cheaper than 22 Mags when I find them.

How was the accuracy with non-magnum loads?

 

[les.b]

Thanks for the update. And congratulations on successfully completing the job!! That is a fine looking revolver you have there, and now it is not only fixed, but much more flexible in Ammo choices than before.

PS.., Doyle is a fine looking "mail sitter", and Randy shows considerable althletic ability as well!!

Best Regards, Les

 

[M29since14]

Thanks for the bonus!

 

[Cal44]

Did you notice any bulged or split cases with you shot 22LR in your newly reamed 22 WMR cylinder?

I have a M650 in 22 WMR and wondered what would happen if I shot 22LR in it.

 

[sigp220.45]

Did you notice any bulged or split cases with you shot 22LR in your newly reamed 22 WMR cylinder.

I have a M650 in 22 WMR and wondered what would happen if I shot 22LR in it.

I shot 50 rounds of LR, and one case was split. None of the 30 or so shorts split. The accuracy seemed the same as before the operation, but I was mostly shooting for function.

 

[D Brown]

This is a most excellent thread everyone! Thanks to everyone for their contributions!

 

[CAJUNLAWYER]

You DO know that you should NOT shoot .22 magnums in it? The barrel is too tight. bore diameter for 22's is 223 and for 22 magnums it is 224