Ok I have a situation I could use some help with. I recently acquired a Sig p220 but its in bad shape. There is no blueing left on this gun u can see the bare metal and all the rust it has accumulated. Now by no means am I not handy when it comes to working on guns but I have never tried to refinish one. I have done some research but i cant find the answer im looking for, I can't afford duracoat or creakote so I was thinking some rustoleum high temp(baked on for an hour) and krylon clear coat matte finish. So can anyone help with suggestions or have u dome this before and if so can anyone post pics.
what to do?!?!?!?
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F75gunslinger
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Let me ask you this....do you have any painting skills ? Do you own a compressor ? Do you own a small oven ? I traded for a Mossberg 500 awhile back and collected a few things to do my own cerakoting job. I got a used mini oven on craigslist, a small sandblaster ( an air eraser..looks like an airbrush) and an airbrush as well. If you like projects and want to do more..it may be a way of doing the Sig and getting more out of it. I think the 500 I did came out quite nicely, and will do more of it in the future as projects become available.
i don't think the type of finish you're thinking of will last very long against any oils/solvents regularly used for guns.
i don't think the type of finish you're thinking of will last very long against any oils/solvents regularly used for guns.
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marine6680
Member
Cerakote is the best spray on finish out there. The bake on version is pretty tough.
Regular spray paint will not hold up well at all on a firearm.
Cerakoting is best done by a pro, but a person with decent painting skills can manage at home if they have the equipment.
Have the pistol reblued, or cerakoted.
Regular spray paint will not hold up well at all on a firearm.
Cerakoting is best done by a pro, but a person with decent painting skills can manage at home if they have the equipment.
Have the pistol reblued, or cerakoted.
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I have the skills and the oven but nothing else. I just done have the money to send it off to have it done and I cant find anyone locally to do it in ky. I would love to have it done but im just trying to get it done with what I got
Rastoff
US Veteran
While I can appreciate wanting to do it yourself, a professional finish is always the way to go with a gun. The solvents and just general use are hard on a gun. Any standard paint from the hardware store won't hold up long.
How much do you have to work with? A handgun can be completely refinished for $250.
F75gunslinger
Member
Another option, again, if you prefer to do it yourself, is to try some cold bluing. It doesn't sound like it was well cared for before you got it, and cold bluing would hold up far better than paint and keep it from getting worse. If, in the future, you decide you want to redo it, it can still be gone over. Look at you tube and there are videos on cold bluing and how to's.
Another option.
http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-smithing/409787-slow-rust-blue.html
Another option.
http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-smithing/409787-slow-rust-blue.html
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F75gunslinger
Member
I disagree on that comment Rastoff. For a collector or serious shooter perhaps, but not everyone who loves our sport has the money to pay someone. For someone who likes to do their own projects, and is willing to take the time to learn a new skill, this is exactly the type of gun to work with. It has already been abused. Why not try to make it a good shooter and have some pride in your own work in the process ?
Biggfoot44
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Common spray paint is frequently used upon AR type rifles for camo jobs. Inexpensive for the supplies for the initial job. Inexpensive for the frequent touchups. ( There was a clue in there .)
For truely minimal investment , I'll echo the quality cold blue.
For truely minimal investment , I'll echo the quality cold blue.
barbourman04
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Great advice. I second this. What better way to learn than to learn on a gun that is already messed up. No harm no foul. If you mess it up, just re do it. Not like it's your favorite m&p.. I actually wouldn't mind having a gun like this just for this reason lol. Tinker away!
marine6680
Member
Really depends on the end goal, but spray paint will start coming off almost immediately.
But as was mentioned, a local auto paint shop may be able to help you out cheap, if you show up with the Cerakote and the parts prepped.
Cleaned and sandblasted parts. The part will need cleaned with a good solvent like acetone after the sandblasting. After that, no touching except with gloved hands, fingerprints can prevent good adhesion.
The baked finish is best, but they make an air dry version.
But as was mentioned, a local auto paint shop may be able to help you out cheap, if you show up with the Cerakote and the parts prepped.
Cleaned and sandblasted parts. The part will need cleaned with a good solvent like acetone after the sandblasting. After that, no touching except with gloved hands, fingerprints can prevent good adhesion.
The baked finish is best, but they make an air dry version.
ginzo
Member
I cold blued a Ruger Security six, turned out fine.
And it WAS ABUSED!
Addendum: I also was looking for a low cost way to refinish a gun. I didn't have the cash to lay out, although a pro job is DEFINITELY worth it. This worked for me. It was not meant to be a professional job, was more of a "no harm, no foul" project as the gun was mechanically sound, just a junk yard dog. My thought process was It could be undone if it didn't come out better than it started.
Believe me this was as much luck as it was mechanical ability. I did a ton of research before attempting this, and I feel was just lucky with the results. I didn't need a "perfect" refinish, just something to say "wow", I did that! 1st and foremost was to preserve the gun.
And it WAS ABUSED!
Addendum: I also was looking for a low cost way to refinish a gun. I didn't have the cash to lay out, although a pro job is DEFINITELY worth it. This worked for me. It was not meant to be a professional job, was more of a "no harm, no foul" project as the gun was mechanically sound, just a junk yard dog. My thought process was It could be undone if it didn't come out better than it started.
Believe me this was as much luck as it was mechanical ability. I did a ton of research before attempting this, and I feel was just lucky with the results. I didn't need a "perfect" refinish, just something to say "wow", I did that! 1st and foremost was to preserve the gun.
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Rastoff
US Veteran
OK, I hear you. I was focused on the idea of using hardware store "rattle can" technology. It simply won't stand up to normal use and cleaning. No reason not to use the cold blue process or something similar.
And, yes, guys use spray can paint to do their ARs all the time. However, the goal there is just coverage/cammo and not protection.
So, I retract what I said. With proper care, the high temp Rust-Oleum will indeed put a uniform finish on that will protect from rust. Just be careful with cleaning products and realize that it will wear off more easily.
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