Would Bobbing the Hammer make the trigger reset quicker?

[Aceman58]

True, but with that, the springs have been increased to compensate for the lesser metal.. Again a completed engineered system, not cut here, and don't cut there...The trigger system needs to be balanced to work reliable is all I'm saying, sure you can trim it and it looks like the Timney, but only in looks.

I've had way to many weapons returned to me to help fix after the owners hacked away at this and that, new harder spring here, new softer spring there, trim the hammer, drilled holes in the hammer and trigger, etc. etc., and they ended up with a paper weight. I think this is one area that you may want to leave it up to an engineer to design a proper system for the type of shooting you want and the weight of trigger pull you need... For me I won't hack away at anything in the trigger system. I will polish and clean up and lube, we should all do that.

But with that said, I like combat trigger, based on my type of shooting...

 

[rootbrain]

Ooooooooo, good point!

But, what we are doing is transferring energy. Would you choose a steel hammer to drive a nail or an aluminum hammer?

The aluminum hammer would never transfer the energy needed to the nail in order to perform the same task as steel (considering the size of the hammer head were the same size as its steel counterpart). It would require multiple strikes. Aluminum would absorb too much of the energy needed and would also dent and deform.

If you weighed the actual hammer of the 15-22 after it was "bobbed" and its size then duplicated that same size in an aluminum alloy, the weight difference would be huge.

So, to achieve the same weight of the original piece using aluminum the part would need to be twice its size or perhaps even larger. So, aluminum would never work.

The only material that works in this application is very "dense" steel if we're looking at energy transfer, which we are.

The same size part in aluminum however and considering what it would weigh, (roughly half the weight of a steel part) would "re-set" incredibly fast however. It would just never last very long or produce the "energy transfer" needed.

I don't think you can compare aluminum and steel. Rather make a comparison between a claw hammer and a ball peen hammer. There are even hammers with no "claw" or "ball" that could be compared.

My take is when trying this, bob the hammer but use the same stock hammer springs it came with, then use lighter trigger springs to smooth out the pull, after polishing the pieces that interact.


Yes, 1st post. Found the site after googling for this exact issue. I know the thread is a bit old. But.....

Bump! LOL.

 

[aguablanco]

So, I must be dense, because I always believed that the resistance the bolt met on firing was the tension on the hammer spring, not necessarily the weight or the hammer. It seems we could measure the weight of the hammer in grams, while the spring tension is measured in pounds. While I can see, maybe, some increased reset speed by decreasing the hammer weight, it would seem to be negligible at best. I will now step into the other room to don my flameproof underwear.
RichH

 

[ballistictoyz]

ummmm nobody addressed the 10lb firing pin spring you must overcome--i ditched the spring altogether and just like its big brother found out its not really needed,i havent had any slam fires as its to light to do this and i found is a great help getting pull weights down without ftf's--so if your willing to put in the work a factory trigger is fine with some polishing and filing a got a 2lb trigger thats reliable and passes a 2foot drop test--so maybe a speed hammer is possible--how about drilling holes and skeletonizing the stock hammer?