WOW. Having replace lots of barrels and cylinders I find one turning into a grenade highly unlikely unless the cylinder that blows had serious issues to start with.
If they carry up correctly and they pass the range rod test, they will work as safely and well as a factory one. Between the forcing cone and the normal rotational slack cause by the cylinder stop needing enough clearance to drop in the notch and operate in its window about the worst you would get is some spitting. Spitting is usually caused by a large gap and the forcing cone not being cut correctly
Cylinders don't get weaker by being moved from one gun to the other. You seldom have much in the way of timing issues. I have even stuck a 6 shot 32 H&R cylinder in a 5 shot 38 special frame and had the cylinder carry up and time right. Shot very well too with a 32 caliber barrel. I run into more issues with yoke tube length and Barrel to cylinder gap than timing issues. Once those are sorted out I am almost always good to go.
I have done probably 40 or more cylinder swap, reamed them to different calibers, chance barrels etc so far and fired every single one and still have all my fingers. I will also note that S&W test fires every single new revolver by hand. If it was as dangerous as some people believe it is they would not do so.
Check out this performance center guy install a raw cylinder, cut the ratchet teeth, check the carry up dragging cylinder, cut the forcing cone, then assembling, check the gap, and checking it by plunging the range rod to check alignment in just a few seconds. from about 4:20 on
Smith & Wesson Pro Series | Shooting USA - YouTube
The whole video is well worth watching
While you do need to have a clue about how things need to be and how to adjust them it isn't rocket science and once done with the proper checks LESS dangerous than buy a new gun off a rack and firing it without doing the same checks