I have a model 60 chambered for 38 special. For me, 38 special +P is all I need for carry.
You're Gettin' a J Frame....38 or 357...Your Pick??
- Thread starter Nalapombu
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Lobster Picnic
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I think the 642/442 is a good place to start, but also consider an older Model 36 or Model 60. They are steel, a bit smaller than the current J-frames, and only 4-oz heavier than the 642/442.
That's a nice sentiment but it's not quite that simple so don't bet your life on it. Like anything else mechanical, revolvers have certain shortcomings and weaknesses.
Whatever you do, if your 640 is one of the original models in .38 Special, just keep it.
Whatever you do, if your 640 is one of the original models in .38 Special, just keep it.
I'd have to agree. One of the 642-1's got traded for a Colt MKIV .45 and the 64 got turned into a 2" 34-1. Joe
RIDE-RED 350r
Member
I just bought my first J-Frame a month ago. An M36-7 with a nice pancake style belt holster that carries the little revolver high and canted forward. Being that I am used to carrying my other Smiths in K, L and N frame I find this little Mini-Smitty an absolute pleasure to carry. I almost forget its along for the ride on my belt!
As to caliber, I feel that 5 rds of 38spl should put an end to any assault if on target. I know a 357 will do the job better, but being I have larger hands and due to my hands being somewhat large, my pinky doesn't come close to wrapping around the grip of my J-Frame when I shoot, I feel 357 would be a challenge to manage effectively in an emergency rapid fire situation.
My brother has a current revision m60 and I have fired 357 out of it. It's not impossible to use, but it is far from smooth. Very punchy. I'm no tactical expert but my gut tells me manageability of the firearm while firing is just as important as the caliber.
I vote 38spl, but that's just me. Everybody is different.
As to caliber, I feel that 5 rds of 38spl should put an end to any assault if on target. I know a 357 will do the job better, but being I have larger hands and due to my hands being somewhat large, my pinky doesn't come close to wrapping around the grip of my J-Frame when I shoot, I feel 357 would be a challenge to manage effectively in an emergency rapid fire situation.
My brother has a current revision m60 and I have fired 357 out of it. It's not impossible to use, but it is far from smooth. Very punchy. I'm no tactical expert but my gut tells me manageability of the firearm while firing is just as important as the caliber.
I vote 38spl, but that's just me. Everybody is different.
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Nice Perrin. Street Bowie?
For me, the J-frames are a usually for BUG duty, in a pocket, etc.,. The .38 is okay in this mode, IMHO. Prefer the no-lock 642/442.
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I own or have owned model 36s, 37, 38, 49, 640, 649-3, 60, 60-15, pre model centennials and airweights, a 637 PC...some in 357 & .38 spl.
My experience is to buy a gun that will shoot .357s. The 357s bring more $ and resale is higher. I carry a 649-3 with both +P and .357s in same cylinder. I put the +ps for the 1st 3 shots and the 2 magnums as the last 2. I figure if I have to get to 4 or 5 shots I am going to need all the help I can. If I am pocket carrying it's an airweight model 38 or 638 with +P. To little control for my hands with .357.
I just purchased my 1st L frame 686 3". Now there is a gun than was made to shoot hot loads It's in my nightstand and truck when I leave the house..but I digress...
One last thing..I also have the 940 2" in 9mm. I shoot it without moon clips. These are great guns with less recoil than a .357 but higher velocity than a .38 spl. I don't know why SW stopped making them. Another choice if you can find one.
My experience is to buy a gun that will shoot .357s. The 357s bring more $ and resale is higher. I carry a 649-3 with both +P and .357s in same cylinder. I put the +ps for the 1st 3 shots and the 2 magnums as the last 2. I figure if I have to get to 4 or 5 shots I am going to need all the help I can. If I am pocket carrying it's an airweight model 38 or 638 with +P. To little control for my hands with .357.
I just purchased my 1st L frame 686 3". Now there is a gun than was made to shoot hot loads
It's in my nightstand and truck when I leave the house..but I digress...One last thing..I also have the 940 2" in 9mm. I shoot it without moon clips. These are great guns with less recoil than a .357 but higher velocity than a .38 spl. I don't know why SW stopped making them. Another choice if you can find one.
Lew Archer
Member
The J frame is a great handgun for when you don't think you'll need a handgun.
After all, if you really thought you were in imminent peril of being in a gunfight...but had no idea how many adversaries you would face...or at what range...or how they were armed...not to mention where or when, exactly, the proverbial balloon would go up...would you really pick a j frame if circumstances limited you to a handgun?
But, for a backup gun, or a primary weapon when danger is unlikely, they are very handy...meaning you might actually have it with you...and it just might save your life.
Personally, for that kind of role, where convenience and discretion...and comfort...make the j frame a viable choice, I would choose the 642 or 442. One rated for +P ammo. Light, but not too light. Snag free. Good for ankle or pocket carry, good in belt or shoulder rig, too.
Reasonable controllable. Very reliable. If it's not an easy gun to master, at least it is simple to operate under high stress.
It sounds like Speer's recent offerings intended for short barreled revolvers are solid performers, too.
In a fight, a fight started by someone else, by the time you get to your weapon, you may already be hurt, you may be down, fighting for your life from the ground. In other words, less than optimal circumstances. So, I would want a reasonably powerful round that is controllable even when conditions aren't optimal.
I like the steel frame old school j frames...36, 60, 42, 49, etc. However, if I'm going to carry that much weight, maybe going to a slightly heavier, larger gun, such as a Glock 26 or 27 (or whatever compact semi auto in 9mm, .40 or .45 you like) is a better choice.
The danger with being a gun buff is sometimes we're inclined to pick a gun because we like it, have a good feeling about it, maybe feel sentimental or nostalgic about it, and so choose a self defense tool for the wrong reasons. Better to coldly analyze the need and select accordingly.
Hard to do, for those of us who have a passion about firearms.
After all, if you really thought you were in imminent peril of being in a gunfight...but had no idea how many adversaries you would face...or at what range...or how they were armed...not to mention where or when, exactly, the proverbial balloon would go up...would you really pick a j frame if circumstances limited you to a handgun?
But, for a backup gun, or a primary weapon when danger is unlikely, they are very handy...meaning you might actually have it with you...and it just might save your life.
Personally, for that kind of role, where convenience and discretion...and comfort...make the j frame a viable choice, I would choose the 642 or 442. One rated for +P ammo. Light, but not too light. Snag free. Good for ankle or pocket carry, good in belt or shoulder rig, too.
Reasonable controllable. Very reliable. If it's not an easy gun to master, at least it is simple to operate under high stress.
It sounds like Speer's recent offerings intended for short barreled revolvers are solid performers, too.
In a fight, a fight started by someone else, by the time you get to your weapon, you may already be hurt, you may be down, fighting for your life from the ground. In other words, less than optimal circumstances. So, I would want a reasonably powerful round that is controllable even when conditions aren't optimal.
I like the steel frame old school j frames...36, 60, 42, 49, etc. However, if I'm going to carry that much weight, maybe going to a slightly heavier, larger gun, such as a Glock 26 or 27 (or whatever compact semi auto in 9mm, .40 or .45 you like) is a better choice.
The danger with being a gun buff is sometimes we're inclined to pick a gun because we like it, have a good feeling about it, maybe feel sentimental or nostalgic about it, and so choose a self defense tool for the wrong reasons. Better to coldly analyze the need and select accordingly.
Hard to do, for those of us who have a passion about firearms.
hotrod150
Member
Well said, couldn't have put it better myself.
b3337
Member
I bought a 637 today to replace the 36 I sold a couple of months ago. I have had 2 36's (sold one, wife commandeered the other) and was looking to lighten the load a bit and settled on the airweight. I chose the 637 because it's light, has an exposed hammer, and was in my price range. I have no desire to fire 357's out of J frame, but as posted earlier, if selling later on, that's a plus for buying one even if you're not going to shoot 357's.
Double-O-Dave
US Veteran
Nalajr:
Here are a couple of photos of my J-frame collection. I really like the Bodyguard design, and I currently own three of them: a Model 38-0, a Model 638-1, and a Model 649-0. I no longer own the Model 60-7 pictured below, I traded it to a fellow Forum member so that I could acquire the Model 649-0. The Model 649 is too heavy for pocket carry, but it is good for shooting at the range. Because of previous injuries, surgeries, and arthritis in both hands, there is no way I could shoot a .357 Magnum round out of a snub nosed revolver. The Model 38-0 and the Model 638-1 are my EDC. When my hands are really bad, and even a .38 Special is too much to bear, I'll go with my Model 432PD in .32 H&R Magnum.
Best of luck,
Dave
PS: sorry for the ommission, here is the legend for the 2 photos, below: photo #1: (top left): Model 60-7, (bottom left): Model 642-2, (top right): Model 38-0, (bottom right): Model 432PD; photo #2: (top): Model 38-0 with nickeled cylinder, (bottom left): Model 638-1, (bottom right): Model 649-0.
Here are a couple of photos of my J-frame collection. I really like the Bodyguard design, and I currently own three of them: a Model 38-0, a Model 638-1, and a Model 649-0. I no longer own the Model 60-7 pictured below, I traded it to a fellow Forum member so that I could acquire the Model 649-0. The Model 649 is too heavy for pocket carry, but it is good for shooting at the range. Because of previous injuries, surgeries, and arthritis in both hands, there is no way I could shoot a .357 Magnum round out of a snub nosed revolver. The Model 38-0 and the Model 638-1 are my EDC. When my hands are really bad, and even a .38 Special is too much to bear, I'll go with my Model 432PD in .32 H&R Magnum.
Best of luck,
Dave
PS: sorry for the ommission, here is the legend for the 2 photos, below: photo #1: (top left): Model 60-7, (bottom left): Model 642-2, (top right): Model 38-0, (bottom right): Model 432PD; photo #2: (top): Model 38-0 with nickeled cylinder, (bottom left): Model 638-1, (bottom right): Model 649-0.
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Obviously we do not know your definition of POWER
However, I guaranty you that with the same weight projectile a 38+P moves out of a model 60 several hundred feet per second slower than the 357 Magnum loading.
Your statement makes me believe that you either do not own or do not know how to use a chronograph.
I do not live in either NY or Texas, but if you ever get to South Florida I will be happy to take you out, set up a chronograph and show you just how inaccurate that statement is
One of the things I forgot to mention when I first posted this is that if your "theory" of 38+p and 357 Magnum generating the same power were true, there would be no one complaining about the recoil of 357 Magnum ammunition in a J-frame
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eveled
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My thoughts exactly. The 442 was my choice. No need for .357 out of a snub nose .38+p is plenty. Ed
Lou_NC
Member
Nalajr,
You are correct in your observation that S&W's have gotten expensive. I'd suggest that you serioulsy consider looking at the used market. I've scored some excellent deals on S&W revolvers that way over the years. With all the popularity of the plastic semiautos these days, many folks sell off there Dad's/Uncle's old revolver(s) to raise some cash to fund their latest "plastic adventure". I am happy to oblige them. You need to be patient and know what you're looking for, but you can find deals. My best results have come locally, but I've also gotten a few good deals on internet sites. They're few and far between, but they're out there. I enjoy the thrill of the hunt, almost as well as scoring one from time to time.
Good luck,
Lou
That's a fact. My Classic Model 36 has noticeable heft compared to those with lightweight frames, but that's what I was looking for. To the question, 38spl+p. Like someone else said, a J frame's what you carry when you're not expecting trouble. 38 should be sufficient.
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photoman
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