WARCOLLECT
Member
I reload rifle brass 5 or so times then anneal to get more life.
Number of Reloads per Case
- Thread starter Krell1
- Start date
Now that's a good point. I guess we're all doing our fair share when we recycle over and over again. Of course, now if we could just beat this global warming thing and thaw out the northeast.....wait, polar vortex, record snow in NYC, blizzard warnings. Maybe we've gone to far on the global warming thing.
Yeah, in the early 70's, the hipster scientists were convinced that we were headed for a miniature ice age.
Earth's gonna do what the earth's gonna do. Whether we like it or not.
.... like these 38 specials, for example.
And this is when you know it's time to throw them out!
I recently had the first loss from 100 Remington .357 cases that have been loaded many times since I bought them for IHMSA shooting in the '80s. All loads were hefty charges of WW296, fired in a Ruger Security Six or a TC Contender. The case failure happened when I ran it into an expander die that was adjusted for .38 special.
tlay
US Veteran
If you are having trouble with loose primer pockets you can do what I do. I "borrowed" my wife's clear fingernail polish and input a dab around the new seated primer. I have only had trouble with some military 5.56 cases. It works great. I had a few blow out and lodge in the trigger. If you don't mind getting slack from your buddies you can use her hot pink polish.
That way, you don't even have to mark your cases! Makes getting your cases away from the seagulls easier. By this, I mean the guys who will "clean up" your brass without asking. I have seen many a seagull schooled on range etiquette, at my range. I thought one guy was going to beat up a guy for picking up and throwing his brass in the barrel. Seems it was brand-new Lapua brass. Had to get the folks at the range to open up the barrel so he could retrieve them!
On reloading, I wait until the case shows signs of overpressure or imminent failure. If when I am seating primers I get one which doesn't seat right, I try it a 2nd time. if it doesn't seat the 2nd time, I throw it in the recycling bin. I use brass from the factory loads I shoot and the stuff I pick up at the range, so it's easy to come by. I haven't bought new brass, ever.
One thing I do recommend though is using a cheap "universal" decapper to deprime all the brass you pick up, and go easy on the handle. Every now and then the brass I pick up has some Berdan primer pockets mixed in. Those will break your decapping pin on your sizing die, if you're heavy-handed with this step! I find them mostly with .223 and 9mm, but occasionally with .45ACP, as well.
tlay
US Veteran
A universal deprimer is a good idea if you only want to deprime and not resize also. A lot of reloaders who only shoot their own brass that have fire formed to their gun do not resize. This also prolongs the life of your brass.
I only use the fingernail polish when there are no signs of overpressure. I have made it a habit to use it on all my military brass that I use.
I only use the fingernail polish when there are no signs of overpressure. I have made it a habit to use it on all my military brass that I use.
I still resize.
I just like the universal decapper, because all I need to do is change the shell holder when I'm switching calibers (instead of the shell holder and the die).
Maybe this sounds like an extra step, but after I tumble all the brass picked up on my range visit, I separate it by caliber and then decap it all. Then I prep all the brass (clean flash holes, primer pockets, and then chamfer & deburr the case mouths). It's not until I am ready to seat new primers, that I resize, measure, and trim (if neccessary). Otherwise, I just leave everything cleaned and prepped in plastic tupperware boxes, until I need it.
I just like the universal decapper, because all I need to do is change the shell holder when I'm switching calibers (instead of the shell holder and the die).
Maybe this sounds like an extra step, but after I tumble all the brass picked up on my range visit, I separate it by caliber and then decap it all. Then I prep all the brass (clean flash holes, primer pockets, and then chamfer & deburr the case mouths). It's not until I am ready to seat new primers, that I resize, measure, and trim (if neccessary). Otherwise, I just leave everything cleaned and prepped in plastic tupperware boxes, until I need it.
S&WIowegan
US Veteran
I've been handloading now for about 25 years. I've got some 45ACP brass with illegible headstamps which I continue to load. My 38 Special and 357 Magnum brass gets loaded until it splits. If I accidentally loaded a split case, I shoot it one last time and toss it. Nickel brass seems to split sooner.
Rifle brass is a different deal. I've seen quite a bit of once-fired .223 brass with split case mouths which always get tossed.
Rifle brass is a different deal. I've seen quite a bit of once-fired .223 brass with split case mouths which always get tossed.
Wee Hooker
Member
The problem I find with counting how many times you have reloaded brass, is that you have to have a good system to keep it all separated by the number of times it's been shot. This can run into allot of different lots of brass if you shoot allot and in multiple calibers. Also, You also can't really scrounge brass left behind at the range unless you want to guess on it's condition. Been there-Done that and it was hopeless. Now I just shoot it up and throw the spent brass into a coffee can on my return home. When the can is full, it gets tumbled then put back into the production line. From there I just keep an eye out for the occasional worn out/cracked piece. No issues yet.
SgtLumpy
Member
That's much like I do. I often run it through a little citric acid then short tumble in walnut/NuFinish before decapping, just to clean dirt off and lube a little before decapping.
Each handling step adds an opportunity to see and cull a bad case.
Sgt Lumpy
BUFF
SWCA Member, Absent Comrade
I find that useful case life also depends a lot on the firearm it is fired in. Semiautomatics often chew up the case's rim, some badly. I don't bother to pick up my brass fired from an FAL if it has been fired twice previously in one of them, for example.
I use a cracked case in a revolver until the bullet will not stay in the case after it is crimped. I listen for the strange sound or very easy sizing of split semi-auto brass.
Very seldom do I find brass that can't be reloaded one more time. That ammo goes into the "shoot and scrap" ammo box.
Very seldom do I find brass that can't be reloaded one more time. That ammo goes into the "shoot and scrap" ammo box.
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Engieman
Member
Load 'em till they fail. All my .44 Special brass has been reloaded some many times I honestly can't even estimate. I've been shooting/reloading that brass for over 35 years. No failures that I can remember, still have all the original brass and have never bought any more .44 Specials. And they have been shot a LOT.
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I reload the cases until I see a crack, then just toss - 'em. I will tell you that the solid Brass cases do seem to last longer than the Nickel plated ones, probably because the Nickel tends ti make them a bit more brittle. The general rule is the more times they get reloaded and the greater the powder charge is - the less longevity they will have.
retired_diver
Member
Someone already stated head case separation in rife, here is a picture of a loaded round that might have that failure this one in 357 mag. I agree with others keeping track of how many times you reload a case is just too much work. I do it until signs of over stress including the circle at the bottom of the case (see pic), splits and loose primer pockets then throw it away. I have some 44 mags that I load medium (900fps/240gr) and they were nickel and are now brass and they still are performing. 
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tlay
US Veteran
I would think the nickel cases split earlier because they have less brass in them. I would think if they nickel plate the brass in order to be the same outside diameter the brass would be thinner. Not sure and have never measured by peeling the plating off.
