This is incorrect. The correct form is "Dat yore dawg?"
WHEN YOUR BETTING YOUR LIFE UPON IT
- Thread starter lazy-b
- Start date
This is incorrect. The correct form is "Dat yore dawg?"
Still wrong here: "Izzat yore dawg?"
I swap your LCP for my Kel Tec's, and my HD gun varies like the wind, and includes a Springfield 1911 that runs like a Swiss Watch. My HD guns run from one end to the other. In the night stand safe right now is a 64-2 two inch, but that'll change in a month. Love my .22 WMR LCR, and my G26 is my favorite truck gun. Sounds like we're together at least in spirit.
American1776
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revolvers are very reliable. I love my wheel guns.
But all my auto loaders are VERY reliable too. Heckler & Koch P7, Walther PPK/s, Makarov PM. Seeing a FTF or FTE in a HK P7 is almost as rare as the phoenix.
Revolvers are reliable in different ways over autos, SOME autos are more reliable than revolvers in different ways. For example: If you drop a revolver and bend the crane/yoke, you might have some REAL problems when you go to shoot it. Drop a P7 (ouch), and odds are, it'll still be just fine.
Still in IDEAL conditions, the revolver will probably be more reliable than the auto.
But all my auto loaders are VERY reliable too. Heckler & Koch P7, Walther PPK/s, Makarov PM. Seeing a FTF or FTE in a HK P7 is almost as rare as the phoenix.
Revolvers are reliable in different ways over autos, SOME autos are more reliable than revolvers in different ways. For example: If you drop a revolver and bend the crane/yoke, you might have some REAL problems when you go to shoot it. Drop a P7 (ouch), and odds are, it'll still be just fine.
Still in IDEAL conditions, the revolver will probably be more reliable than the auto.
What is the best gun lube?
If you're going to be the grammar police hadn't you better attend to your own first?
Mainsail
Member
If you're going to be the grammar police hadn't you better attend to your own first?
I seriously doubted anyone would even notice.
shouldazagged
Absent Comrade
Well I suppose grammar dissection is a change from a debate that will never, ever, ever conclude.
stantheman86
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.44 Magnum, because shooting twice is just plain silly
There are no real good choices for autos in hand cannon calibers besides Desert Eagle, AMT and wierd stuff like LAR.......so when I need hip artillery like .357, .44 and .454 I'll stay with my wheelguns.
There are no real good choices for autos in hand cannon calibers besides Desert Eagle, AMT and wierd stuff like LAR.......so when I need hip artillery like .357, .44 and .454 I'll stay with my wheelguns.
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Worst two auto malfs I've ever experienced:
First gun as a puppy-po-po was a 659 . Full lead, ball ammo was the dirt-cheap fodder for the training range. Had a case wedge itself tight into the the chamber, such that immediate action drills were useless. Shut down the line until the range-master could clear it.
Experienced the dreaded Phase-3 malf with a new G19 3rd gen, and USA white-box. (The Gun Zone -- Glock Phase 3 Malfunctions). I spent a few minutes showing it to a shooting buddy with me at the range that day. Immediate action was also useless, and it took me a few mins to sort it out.
Even w/ quality OEM ammo, I had two Kahr PM9s , and a P45 that had to good back to them. The early PM's had a couple of known functioning issues, and Kahr fixed them right, the first time. The P45 had to go back twice. I was getting numerous failures-to-fire. They didn't grasp that the chamber was cut too deeply on the first visit, LOL.
Every other malf I've had with various autos has been cleared immediately so that I could keep shooting. Failures to chamber, eject, or fire are swift. Double-feeds, a bit longer, LOL. Here's a great body cam vid of a recent police shooting where the officer clears a malf on what appears to be a Glock:
Lessons Learned From an Officer-Involved Shooting - The Truth About Guns
Revolvers: Dropped an early K-frame of mine, bending the hammer spur such that SA pull didn't work. Still had enough clearance for DA, thankfully.
Peened out the hammer-nose bushing from too much dry-fire, to the point where the cylinder would bind when loaded.
Had some UMC .357 tie-up a M28 that I had. Primer flowed back into the nose-bushing, locking it up tight. That was fun to take home and fix!
Examined a recent 442 at a dealer, where the firing-pin would jam forward when struck. Thus, the cylinder couldn't rotate! (something to say for the former hammer-nose design, eh?).
...and WHO among us hasn't had the occasional unscrewing of an ejector rod, binding the cylinder shut? Guilty on Ruger's Six-series, too.
Until Caracal's debacle in our market, I was loving me some F-series 19rds on-tap. Most days, I'm now getting by with a M12 snub. However, I am waiting a couple of new Wunder-Nines to hit the market for a lookee see.
First gun as a puppy-po-po was a 659 . Full lead, ball ammo was the dirt-cheap fodder for the training range. Had a case wedge itself tight into the the chamber, such that immediate action drills were useless. Shut down the line until the range-master could clear it.
Experienced the dreaded Phase-3 malf with a new G19 3rd gen, and USA white-box. (The Gun Zone -- Glock Phase 3 Malfunctions). I spent a few minutes showing it to a shooting buddy with me at the range that day. Immediate action was also useless, and it took me a few mins to sort it out.
Even w/ quality OEM ammo, I had two Kahr PM9s , and a P45 that had to good back to them. The early PM's had a couple of known functioning issues, and Kahr fixed them right, the first time. The P45 had to go back twice. I was getting numerous failures-to-fire. They didn't grasp that the chamber was cut too deeply on the first visit, LOL.
Every other malf I've had with various autos has been cleared immediately so that I could keep shooting. Failures to chamber, eject, or fire are swift. Double-feeds, a bit longer, LOL. Here's a great body cam vid of a recent police shooting where the officer clears a malf on what appears to be a Glock:
Lessons Learned From an Officer-Involved Shooting - The Truth About Guns
Revolvers: Dropped an early K-frame of mine, bending the hammer spur such that SA pull didn't work. Still had enough clearance for DA, thankfully.
Peened out the hammer-nose bushing from too much dry-fire, to the point where the cylinder would bind when loaded.
Had some UMC .357 tie-up a M28 that I had. Primer flowed back into the nose-bushing, locking it up tight. That was fun to take home and fix!
Examined a recent 442 at a dealer, where the firing-pin would jam forward when struck. Thus, the cylinder couldn't rotate! (something to say for the former hammer-nose design, eh?).
...and WHO among us hasn't had the occasional unscrewing of an ejector rod, binding the cylinder shut? Guilty on Ruger's Six-series, too.
Until Caracal's debacle in our market, I was loving me some F-series 19rds on-tap. Most days, I'm now getting by with a M12 snub. However, I am waiting a couple of new Wunder-Nines to hit the market for a lookee see.
Arik
Member
For bears?
Wrong, wrong and still wrong.
It is "Datcher dog?"
My limited experience is with revolvers.
Nothing biased against auto feeds, just haven't fired one in years and would need some hands on guidance to get restarted.
Revolvers aren't always reliable.
I respect your decision as to what you're comfortable with. It has been my experience that new model pistols, particularly when efforts are made to make them ever smaller, do suffer from reliability issues.
But, and it's a bit but: revolvers also have reliability issues. Get some unburned powder under the extractor star and you cannot close the cylinder, a loose extractor rod will prevent you from opening the cylinder. And, if you haven't been trained on tactical reloading technique, get a fired casing simultaneously chambered and UNDER the extractor and you're out of business, period.
One last point: hot ammo, combined with a soft primer, can cause the primer to extrude into the hammer-nose hole in the frame, in which case the cylinder will stop rotating. The fix for this to activate the cylinder release, then whack the cylinder smartly on its right side to sheer off the extruded primer material. But how many would have the presence of mind to do this in combat or to figure out whether its the primer or loose extractor rod causing the problem?
I respect your decision as to what you're comfortable with. It has been my experience that new model pistols, particularly when efforts are made to make them ever smaller, do suffer from reliability issues.
But, and it's a bit but: revolvers also have reliability issues. Get some unburned powder under the extractor star and you cannot close the cylinder, a loose extractor rod will prevent you from opening the cylinder. And, if you haven't been trained on tactical reloading technique, get a fired casing simultaneously chambered and UNDER the extractor and you're out of business, period.
One last point: hot ammo, combined with a soft primer, can cause the primer to extrude into the hammer-nose hole in the frame, in which case the cylinder will stop rotating. The fix for this to activate the cylinder release, then whack the cylinder smartly on its right side to sheer off the extruded primer material. But how many would have the presence of mind to do this in combat or to figure out whether its the primer or loose extractor rod causing the problem?
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CScott
Member
A southern friend of mine (a great CPA) would say "If ya'll's happy with ya'll's boat anchor, I'm happy for ya'll. Ya'll want a coke? I got root beer or Mountain Dew".
keith44spl
Member
What with having an affinity for blondes, brunettes and redheads....
I believe in......
.
I believe in......
.
I've never had an issue with hammer fired semi-autos only with the striker fired ones I've had a few minor failures with but nothing that couldn't be sorted out by quickly racking the slide. Think most of the semi-auto problems come from reloads and people not using quality ammo and not shooting them enough to understand how they work. Sure they are more ammo sensitive but once you've put a few 1000 rounds through one I really don't see an issue. Sure revolvers need less maintenance and "exercise" but the trade off is less rounds. I like both and have both but I'll always take more rounds than less.
BigBill
Absent Comrade
Here's the honest truth, the real story.
In 1990 I purchased a brand new Springfield Armory Series 90 1911a1 in 45acp. It jammed one round per mag. It came with the taller sights, in black park with a nice fit on the frame rails. It sat in the safe for over 20++ years I refuse to let anyone fix it. I did shoot it and became very fast at jamming it. Now fast forward I picked up a well used norinco that needed rebuilding. Very loose barrel bushing in the slide. I purchased every DVD on how to work on the 1911's. I built a low budget race 1911 that shoots cloverleafs and clusters at 25yds. I purchased the 1911 tools from brownells in the process. I remembered about my 90's 1911 in the safe.
The extractor was untuned. I used the pull Gage and extractor tuning fixture from brownells and retuned it. She now empties mags as fast as I pull the trigger. Now I realized what I did I loaded the first round by hand. I let the extractor spring over the case lip. Autos should be loaded from the mag only. I trust my 1911's now there awesome.
I did get an education on building 1911's and how fast I could clear a stove pipe for 20years at the range. I took it out once a year and put 8rds thru it. She has only 100rds thru it before I adjusted the extractor and tuned it.
All my autos run flawlessly with no jams. I shoot my reloads and Russian wolf ammo.
I can ccw and shoot any handgun. God designed us with elbows and shoulder joints too I can't adjust and shoot any rifle very accurately. The rifle don't fit me is BS move your elbow and hand grip then adjust were the scope sits. Ever adjust to shoot a boys rifle? Change the grips on your handgun.
Load your autos only from the magazine's.
In 1990 I purchased a brand new Springfield Armory Series 90 1911a1 in 45acp. It jammed one round per mag. It came with the taller sights, in black park with a nice fit on the frame rails. It sat in the safe for over 20++ years I refuse to let anyone fix it. I did shoot it and became very fast at jamming it. Now fast forward I picked up a well used norinco that needed rebuilding. Very loose barrel bushing in the slide. I purchased every DVD on how to work on the 1911's. I built a low budget race 1911 that shoots cloverleafs and clusters at 25yds. I purchased the 1911 tools from brownells in the process. I remembered about my 90's 1911 in the safe.
The extractor was untuned. I used the pull Gage and extractor tuning fixture from brownells and retuned it. She now empties mags as fast as I pull the trigger. Now I realized what I did I loaded the first round by hand. I let the extractor spring over the case lip. Autos should be loaded from the mag only. I trust my 1911's now there awesome.
I did get an education on building 1911's and how fast I could clear a stove pipe for 20years at the range. I took it out once a year and put 8rds thru it. She has only 100rds thru it before I adjusted the extractor and tuned it.
All my autos run flawlessly with no jams. I shoot my reloads and Russian wolf ammo.
I can ccw and shoot any handgun. God designed us with elbows and shoulder joints too I can't adjust and shoot any rifle very accurately. The rifle don't fit me is BS move your elbow and hand grip then adjust were the scope sits. Ever adjust to shoot a boys rifle? Change the grips on your handgun.
Load your autos only from the magazine's.
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BigBill
Absent Comrade
.44 Magnum, because shooting twice is just plain silly
Why waste ammo when one well placed powerful round will do the job. I don't need more than five rounds the sixth round is for me if I miss lol I don't miss.
I seriously doubted anyone would even notice.
LOL, what, you think you're the most educated or intelligent person on the forum?
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