S&W Victory takedown screw problem

Setting the screw at 40inch lbs of torque will keep it tight but still allow you to break it open fairly easy also.
This worked for me for about 1200 rounds. Then I had a couple range sessions where I had to tighten the takedown screw 3 or 4 times. Started using Vibra-Tite VC-3 and the problem went away. So, multiple simple solutions to this problem ... but S&W needs to rethink their solution of locking down the screw so tight that nobody can remove it.
 
Its obvous that someone at the factory is over tightening the screws in order to have these problems. Perhaps a call to the mothership to let them know may help new buyers in the future as this is not good for sales this way at all.Anyone experiencing this problem I would suggest calling S&W to let them know your frustration with this issue.
 
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Yes I would like to know the torque value they are using? 40 inch pounds is enough. Wonder if the torque guy grabbed a 40 foot pound wrench by mistake. How much can that screw handle max?
 
How much can that screw handle max?
I researched this several months ago. The alloy steel #12-28 socket head cap screw can take a lot more than 40 in-lbs; the stainless steel barrel nut is the limiting factor. So I looked up the torque specs for a stainless steel cap screw. Couldn't find specs for a #12-28 screw, so I interpolated between a #10 and 1/4" screw and came up with 60-65 in-lbs. So, I decide to go with 40 in-lbs. It is important to lubricate the screw because yow will get about 1/3 more clamping force for a given torque. BTW, when I started using Vibra-Tite VC-3, I also reduced the torque to 30 in-lbs. This has been working great for me and I've put 3000 rounds thru my Victory.
 
Update - my gunsmith had to freeze my pistol and then apply heat to the takedown screw before he was finally able to loosen it. He tried penetrating oil and heat first, but that didn't work. I wasn't aware of the freezing trick before this; maybe it will work for someone else as a last resort before having to send it back to S&W.

Nik
 
VC-3 is da bomb for this application, but it shouldn't be needed if S&W got it right in the first place. None of my other guns have this problem, and some of them are fairly rare stainless steel beasties.
 
Vibra Tite VC-3

Seems like the vc-3 is the way to go...Is anyone (10P8Troit) using it on any other screws on the Victory? Wondered about the barrel screw. Thanks
 
I don't post here very often but do visit a lot to absorb information. I looked at a Victory model today and was also impressed with the idea of a single screw for take down. This evening I decided to check the forum for comments. After reading this thread I think I'll stick with the units I have. Maybe S&W will get it corrected in a few months. Good luck to you who have purchased and are having troubles.
 
I like mine very much. I just tighten the screw when it needs it. Last time out I shot 100 rounds and it was fine. Going again tomorrow and can't wait to find out how it does this time.
 
Kind of wish I hadn't of put the Volquartsen trigger assy in the Mark III before that the Victory was my favorite. Maybe this fall they will have one for the Victory plus target grips. I keep checking my paint dots and the screw hasn't moved. 1435 rounds now. Hate to take it a part to clean it.
 
I purchased a brand new S&W Victory from Gander Mountain, lubed it up a little, and shot a few dozen rounds through it before I tried to disassemble it and found the Allen screw to be torqued down so tight none of my hand tools could budge it. Before I broke a wrench, I took it back to Gander Mountain where their resident "gunsmith" ended up rounding out the edges out of frustration using a metric wrench!

I called S&W Customer Support and they were extremely fast in e-mailing me a FedEx Shipping Label and the RMA paperwork to fill out. An hour later it was on its way back to the S&W factory. A couple of weeks later it was returned via FedEx, and all at no charge to me.

I haven't had time to disassemble it, but I'll do so after we run some more rounds through it. If it's resistant again, I'll use my 3/8" air-hammer with Allen bit and "convince" it to rotate.
 
I wonder if the frame/barrel gap has anything to do with it. This would take a few samples and a bunch of Plastigage to collect the data.
 
Screw

Hello,
I just purchased my Victory model, and will have it this weekend.
I really do understand why there is so much trouble. Working in an industry where you use all types and sizes of threaded fasteners, you learn where the problems come from.
This particular problem exists because S&W Decided to use a #12-24 Low Head SHCS. (Socket Head Cap Screw).
This particular screw requires a smaller hex wrench than what would be used if it were the standard head height.
The Low head uses a 1/8 wrench. To give you an idea This wrench is normally used on a #6-32 SHCS. Note I did not say Low head.
To apply sufficient torque to the 12-24. with a much smaller wrench has many disadvantages, one is stripping out the hex. They don't put the hex detail in the head of the screw as deep, there is less total area to help break things loose. This was a horrible design purely due to the use of a Low head screw and an inadequate wrench to do the work with.
You can use a split washer, you can use a rubber O Ring, and it will work just fine. However going to a standard screw, with the 5/32 wrench will give you the desired results. Adequate tightening and no issues breaking it loose.
The 5/32 wrench is typically used on the 10-32 and 10-24 SHCS.
The # 12 screw is not commonly used, and the next size wrench is 3/16, which is what you would use on a 1/4-20 or 1/4-28 cap screw.

Anytime we use Flat head, or Low head, Or button head screws, the smaller wrench is used, Were not talking one size smaller, we are talking 2 sizes smaller. From 1/8 to 5/32 you have 9/64 right in between, which is used on the 8/32 SHCS. Many times we end up taking a center punch and driving the flat head out, or drill the head out.
These screws lock in place and stripping the hex out or twisting the wrench into a pretzel is common. So this Victory issue with the screw is really quite simple, Use the proper screw type with the proper wrench size.
I'm willing to bet there would be no problems here.
 
screws

I wonder if the frame/barrel gap has anything to do with it. This would take a few samples and a bunch of Plastigage to collect the data.

This is also a good point, there should be no substantial gap, not more than .002-.005, it's the same with bedding a rifle barrel, the screw should just hold things together, and not cause any strain or put any pre load on any of the parts. Hopefully you will need nothing more than some red gage to see what is happening.
 
Chalk up another SW22 owner with the overtight screw. I wish I would have checked the forum first when I was having problems. I guess I got lucky. I went to break the gun down to inspect and lube it before its first range trip. I tried the factory hex wrench then moved to one that was longer to get more torq on it. I need to inspect the screw head better, but I'm sure I rounded it off. I got lucky and got screw to break free, but I thought I snapped the hex wrench. Maybe I can get S&W to send me a new screw. I got a about 150 rds through it, but was having feed problems on the first few mags (I guess to be expected with a new firearm). I was using CCI std velocity ammo for the first 100, then switched to Aguila super extra for the last 50 and it ran very well.
 
Welcome to the forum.

Good luck on the screw. I'm sure Smith&Wesson will send a new one.

With my Victory I've found that if I stay with .22lr's above 1150fps I have no problems.
 
I have an April 2016, just bought it yesterday from Cabelas, and the barrel screw popped loose with what I consider normal breakaway torque. Haven't fired it yet so no idea if the screw will loosen up with firing.
 
victory

Picked up my victory this weekend, only came with one wrench instead of the 2 needed, but I have so many. Found the screw tight for the short 1/8 wrench but broke it free, will use a long 1/8 wrench the rest of the way, will find out the thread pitch on Tuesday, but it's not 24 and it's not 32. It might even be metric. I do not believe the trigger is plastic, looking in the set screw hole for the trigger over travel, sure looks like metal to me. Very impressed with the simplicity, and was impressed with the amount of different ammo's it shot including the Silent which is far below the 1080 fps of the SV ammo.
 
BTW there is nothing Super about Aguila Super Extra. I ran chrono test on it Thursday with my Labradar as a friend had a box and his Beretta was stove piping a lot with it a sign of under power. I have ran 7 brands so far with my Victory and Volquartsen Barrel.

Norma TAC-22 HV 981, LV 918, AV 951, ES 68, SD 18

Remington Thunderbolts 1154, 1040, 1092, 115 35

Armscor 36gr HP 1184 1126 1155 59 18

CCI standard 1000 953 980 47 15

Eley Target 1022 981 1004 41 12

Federal Target Grade 1132 1072 1089 60 19

Aguila Super Extra 1101 1024 1068 77 29

I have 4 more kinds of 22LR target grade ordered to test.

I am shooting the TAC 22 in my Victory and Mark III Competition and like them good enough to buy 4,000 rounds and they are cheap besides.
 
I got my gun back from S&W. It was actually kind of comical. There was a brand new screw in it and it was barely hand tight. I guess with all the trouble I had, they decided to let me tighten it down myself. I don't know if it's actually a different screw, but it does seem like the wrench engages much deeper into the screw than the original did. I'm now able to torque it down adequately so that it won't come loose during shooting, and yet still be able to break it loose for take down.
 
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