Evolution of My M&P9

Saudade

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I bought my M&P9 fullsize back in mid 2013 when it was still on roster. Despite the gripes about the trigger I liked it. About a year later I read about "upgrades" such as the H trigger bar and new slide stop. So I purchased them and did the easy upgrade. Not bad at all. About a year after that I came across a sear housing block that contained the performance center sear so I jumped on it. Another easy upgrade and did improved the break and reset. I also did the Burwell trigger job to the extent I could. In the end not bad at all.

Last year I bought the ported 5" slide kit to turn it into a pseudo CORE. Topped it with a RMR. The CORE slide had an improved striker block (like the APEX USB). A bit of tweaking the loop and I was quite pleased.

Later last year, S&W did a fire sale on 2.0 grips so I grabbed a bunch of backstraps and grip tools to go with my CORE backstraps. Still have the CORE grip on it.

Finally, last week, I received a 2.0 sear housing and trigger bar. The install was drop in. A leap in improvement and no dang loop to tweak. Still a far amount of takeup to disengage the striker block, but once it hits the sear, the break is crisp and clean. Reset is vastly improved. Naturally the H trigger bar is gone but the 1.0 slide stop is still in.

So from a plain jane, on roster, M&P9, to a nearly 2.0 CORE, (OK, let's call it v 1.5), all using S&W parts.

Now some will say (OK perhaps many), what a waste. I should just bought a 2.0 or dropped in an APEX and be done with it. Perhaps you're right. Still, it's been an incremental improvement, a learning exercise and rewarding to know I didn't screw it up (so far).

Here are a few pics along the way.

The day I picked it up in original form.

MP9FS New.jpg

My CORE Slide Kit
MP9FS PC Box.jpg

Sportin' the CORE
IMG_1900.JPG

Bunch o' grips
grips.JPG

1.0 vs 2.0 sear housing
shb1v2.JPG


On to pricing for those who must know

M&P9 - $499 plus tax and dros
H stamp trigger bar and improved slide stop - $20
5" Ported Slide kit - $357 delivered
Box full of 2.0 grips - $15
RMR06 Type 1 - $350 (on sale)
2.0 SHB and Trigger bar - $52 delivered

So approx $1360 so far and I still have all of the original parts.


Next off to the range. But that will be a different post.
 
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Great story Saudade and a very nice looking gun.
My M&P 40 was the first handgun I bought (already had a 1911 and a Ruger Service Six passed down to me) and the first firearm bought in 25 years back in 2011. It has had over 50,000 rounds through it. I did put an Apex FSS trigger kit into it in 2014 but recently put the stock trigger back into it and found that it didn't make much of a difference to me.

It's my favorite gun and the one I probably shoot the best with.

I cast and reload so at about 6.6 cents a shot, I've spent over $3200 in ammo. That makes the gun price negligible even when I include the extra mags and wear items like recoil springs (2), mag springs (4) and slide releases (2).
 
Greatly done
 
<snip>That makes the gun price negligible even when I include the extra mags and wear items like recoil springs (2), mag springs (4) and slide releases (2).<snip>

OK LMAO... This is so true. I've spent far more in ammo and spare parts compared to the handgun purchase.

I drive a 1988 Jeep Cherokee. Could have bought 'Vette with all the $$$ I've dumped into it. Still, it's my Jeep, there are many like it but this one is mine.
 
Thank Saudada for the acknowledgement.
I wonder why yours was drop in and mine took some fitting and is a very snug fit? Maybe there were changes made from early to more recent manufacturing dates.

How is your over travel with the new setup? Mine is zero perceived. Take up is minimal but had to shim to achieve.

Time for you to install the trigger/locking block. $10 is well worth the price of admission. Don't forget $8 for the locking lever.

Very happy with the results on my PC CORE.

M&P PC CORE 700
Apex FSS Kit 160
Apex barrel 200
M2 lock/trigger bl 10
Lever 8
Trigger bar 8
M2 sear block 28
Vortex Razor red dot 400

TOTAL 1514

As a side note. The PC CORE slide will work on the M2.0c frame. I imagine that it will work on the M2.0 full size too.

Cheers

Philip
 
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Thank Saudade for the acknowledgement.
I wonder why yours was drop in and mine took some fitting and is a very snug fit? Maybe there were changes made from early to more recent manufacturing dates.

I can only guess this may be a factor. Also the true COREs use the SHB with the internal lock (the lock hole is blocked). I recall some frame differences with these diff SHBs.

How is your over travel with the new setup? Mine is zero perceived. Take up is minimal but had to shim to achieve.

Mine is imperceptible. Seems like the lower trigger half hits the bump as soon as the sear breaks. However, the hinged trigger feels very flexy to me so there's some give beyond the tolerances. Takeup is still like before, some pull to hinge the trigger past the drop safety, then a bit more to engage the striker block. I can feel the trigger flex if I don't pull enough to release the sear. However, this is very smooth and predicable. I feel no "creep" other than the flex, and BANG!

Time for you to install the trigger/locking block. $10 is well worth the price of admission. Don't forget $8 for the locking lever.

Honestly, I'm not convinced I needed this just yet. Perhaps you can provide some details to the improvement due to the locking block.


Very happy with the results on my PC CORE.

That says it all!! :)

As a side note. The PC CORE slide will work on the M2.0c frame. I imagine that it will work on the M2.0 full size too.

So this intrigues me. The slide lock notch is different on the 2.0 so the 1.0 slides won't work on a 2.0. Also the frame is different here so the 2.0 slide lock parts won't fit on a 1.0. Did I miss something?

Looking forward to some range time this week to see if it really works. :)
 
The only difference I fell with the new lock block is some what tighter slide to frame fit. Is it a game changer? No, but it was a cheep upgrade and worth it to me. YMMV <:)

The 1.0 slide does fit and function on the 2.0, not the other way around. The slide notch on the 2.0 is to small for the lock to fit in. You could alway file down the lock to fit the frame, very little needs to be filed off but I'm not going to do that. I have no need to put a 2.0 slide on a 1.0 frame, at this time.

IMG_5543.JPG

C heers

Philip
 
Congrats on the evolution of your M&P. I went the easy route on my 2.0 compact (Apex flat trigger and threaded barrel, vortex red dot, suppressor) but have also had guns that I worked on over time. I have to say the over time route is very satisfying and I learned more that way. It really makes it YOUR gun. Enjoy.
 

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