Life expectancy of a scandium frame???

[FTG-05]

I can tell you from having a 40 caliber pistol repaired at a service center. Smith and wesson's service is #1. No matter what happens to your handgun it will be repaired. This is why I have 5 smith & wesson handguns. Just know they stand behind their warranty.

Glad to hear this, 'cause I have a cracked frame 329PD there right now.

 

[luis]

Alloy frame guns do wear out but S&W has built a protection factor. Smith no longer makes parts beyound 5 or 10 years. Try getting Smith to repair some of the Ti guns, they will tell you that they are out of parts.

 

[Harry58]

A guy at the local gun shop told me that scandium frame revolvers were rated at about a 5000 round service life, while the aluminum alloy frames were rated at about a 3000 round service life.

From some of the previous posts, it sounds like you guys think that the scandium guns will go a lot longer than 5000 rounds.

 

[Steve in Vermont]

I understand S&W will stand behind their products, but so will my local car dealer. Yet I don't want a car that I can't depend on, even though I'll feel better stranded at 3AM on a back road thinking "at least the dealer will honor the warranty".

 

[ShooterMcgavin18]

False Information

Guys,

The information that most everyone in this post has responded with is simply not true. The Smith and Wesson lifetime repair policy does not apply to normal wear and tear, such as shooting the handgun. A Scandium revolver has a definite life span and it is no where near 1,000 rounds in my experience. I would estimate that I ran 500 rounds at the most through my 360SC revolver before the cylinder would simply slide backwards off of the ejector with the cylinder open.

Like you all have posted, I was under the false impression that Smith and Wesson had a lifetime guarantee on this product. I called up S&W, they sent me a prepaid shipping label to return the firearm and I sent it back, only to receive the attached letter in reply(along with my unrepaired firearm).

I was shocked at the reply I received from Smith and Wesson. I immediately looked on the internet and found this thread. Assuming that you were all putting out accurate information, I called Smith and Wesson to discuss their policy and determine why my firearm had not been repaired. Their representative, Paul (Manager), explained to me that the lifetime repair policy only covers defects in manuafacturing and in no way covers normal wear and tear from usage, I.E. FIRING the gun! He explained that the policy would only cover me if there were defects in the manufacturing process that caused the failure.

I would caution you all, if you own a scandium or Aluminum revolver from Smith and Wesson, DO NOT FIRE IT! The gun has a most distinct lifespan before it will break and it is in no way covered by Smith. I mean, they did not even offer to repair the gun for a price. Essentially I have a $900, paperweight now.

I would suggest that you buy a steel frame equivalent, of for that matter go with another brand of firearm that has a better warranty and covers their firearms to be used as they were intended. I have always loved my Smith and Wesson products, but after this experience, I may be going elsewhere with my money when I purchase my next firearm.

 

[ShooterMcgavin18]

False Information

See the attached picture. This is the malfunction that I am having. The gun was shipped to Smith and Wesson in this exact condition. The firearm was purchased in roughly 2007 and has only 500 rounds fired through it at the most. It is most likely much less than that.

 

[Echo40]

Considering that this thread is over a decade old, it's highly likely that at the time S&W's Lifetime Service Policy DID apply to ordinary wear and tear but simply DOESN'T ANYMORE, or at least they're no longer honoring the terms of their own policy.

Either way, posting in a thread that started in 2009 and had its last post in 2011 arguing that what folks are saying is false makes no sense.

This is why if you do a thread search, you should always make note of the date in which the thread was posted/active, because times change, things change with them, and replying to ancient threads is pointless unless it's an ongoing thread that has been pinned or otherwise is repeatedly referenced as a source of information which is no longer accurate.

 

[ShooterMcgavin18]

Well my friend, If it was posted in 2009. It applies. That is the timeframe that the gun was purchased during, and should be the guarantee afforded to me from Smith and Wesson.

 

[s&wchad]

ShooterMcgavin18,
Sorry to hear about the issue with your 360Sc and the poor factory response.

Please understand that this forum is privately owned and not affiliated with Smith & Wesson Holding Corporation in any way. See the bottom of any forum page for the disclaimer. We have no pull with the factory.

The issue your having is referred to “cylinder jumping lug”. That problem happens when fired cases stick in the cylinder and and you apply a lot of force on the ejector rod, without supporting the cylinder. When S&W made the change from the pressed in steel frame lug to the integral frame lug, they didn’t make the ledge that limits rearward movement of the cylinder tall enough. That’s my opinion, anyway. It’s worse on alloy frame guns, where the harder steel or titanium cylinder contacts the aluminum alloy lug.

I had the same problem on the 342Ti. Fortunately for me, S&W was able to straighten the yoke and get my gun back in service. Your gun will still function OK, but you’ll need to make sure the chambers are smooth and clean, use ammo where the fired cases don’t stick in the chambers and support the cylinder while ejection.

It’s a darn shame S&W didn’t deal with your problem and accept responsibility for a poor design.

 

[AJR337]

I realize it's not ideal/what you were hoping for but an experienced torch welder or you could try JB Weld to build up the lug and then shape it with a file?

 

[delcrossv]

I realize it's not ideal/what you were hoping for but an experienced torch welder or you could try JB Weld to build up the lug and then shape it with a file?

Umm not JB Weld, but building up and shaping a new stop lug has been done successfully.

 

[JimCunn]

" and see quite a bit of wear into the frame where the cylinder closes"

What does that hurt?

 

[BC38]

I realize it's not ideal/what you were hoping for but an experienced torch welder or you could try JB Weld to build up the lug and then shape it with a file?

Drilling the frame and pressing in a steel cylinder stop lug would be a better solution. The trouble with "welding" on the frame is that you have to know the exact alloy of aluminum first and when you're done any heat treatment will be destroyed.

 

[Steve912]

The issue your having is referred to “cylinder jumping lug”. That problem happens when fired cases stick in the cylinder and and you apply a lot of force on the ejector rod, without supporting the cylinder. When S&W made the change from the pressed in steel frame lug to the integral frame lug, they didn’t make the ledge that limits rearward movement of the cylinder tall enough. That’s my opinion, anyway. It’s worse on alloy frame guns, where the harder steel or titanium cylinder contacts the aluminum alloy lug..

Could it be repaired, substituting a SS lug from, say, a 65 or 686?

Edit: just saw Steelslaver posted this approach earlier, in another
scandium revolver thread.

 

[No Quarter]

Well over 1000 rounds through my 340PD, 327 PC snub, 340 M&P. Probably 25% 357, the rest .38 special with more than half of those plus P.

They all are still tight, accurate, and get carried regularly. No cylinder erosion, no top strap erosion, just great, easy to carry guns with plenty of power. The 340PD is in my pocket or ankle holster 99% 9f the time I carry.

I don't care about the finish wear. My guns are for carrying and shooting.

 

[waffles]

I'll toss this in, not a fan of my scandium experience.

The end of my 340SC saga, AKA my last modern S&W

May try and drill the frame for a stud but who knows.

 

[ShooterMcgavin18]

Thanks for the suggestions guys, I appreciate the advice. I am going to try and install a new stop. I am considering a low heat solder designed for aluminum to build up a bit of material and then final shape with files. I will then duracoat the gun to hide the repair. Any thought or suggestions on this option would be appreciated.

Another thought I had was to perhaps replace the yoke. I would think that this is the part that has worn over time and allowed the cylinder enough play to jump over the lug in the first place. Do you guys think this would help?

 

[ShooterMcgavin18]

Wear

Upon closer inspection, it appears that the wear is most definitely in the yoke. As you will see in the attached photos, the yoke appears to be wearing on the front edge at the very bottom of yoke when the cylinder is closed.

Do you guys know if it is safe to replace this yoke with a steel part? I can purchase a yoke from Numrich for $12.

 

[steelslaver]

No confusion here. I was speaking to durability. To me, the lack of "hardness" you refer to, would indicate a less durable frame. Regards 18DAI.

A file is really hard. Give one a solid tap with its flat on on the corner of a piece of heavy steel and think about how durable it was as you pick up the pieces.You can do that all day with a piece off aluminum. It will mar but not fail catastrophically


A piece of machinery chain that slaps against a piece of hardened steel plate will quickly wear both the plate and the chain. Place a piece of "soft" UHMW where the hardened wear plate was and the chain will last way way longer and hey so will the UHMW. Durable has nothing to do with hard.

Durability is all about application of materials

 

[TheHobbyist]

It should probably be noted that most will likely never SPEND the amount of money on ammo these days to "wear out a gun".

Look at Caj's matrix, in terms of rounds, compared to current market prices of ammo.

I understand where you are coming from, but seriously, I think some of the folks offering this free advice at ranges and the like need to keep perspective.