Dillon presses

[Patrick L]

The only knock against the SDB is it's current cost. Your thought about multiple dedicated SDBs could get pretty expensive, versus 1 or 2 presses that you swap calibers on. I remember back when they came out in the 80s the introductory price was $135, which was cheap even for the time.

Just my opinion

 

[rockquarry]

The only knock against the SDB is it's current cost. Your thought about multiple dedicated SDBs could get pretty expensive, versus 1 or 2 presses that you swap calibers on. I remember back when they came out in the 80s the introductory price was $135, which was cheap even for the time.

Just my opinion

You're right. They have gone up a lot.

 

[Mark Pilcher]

Money is not a problem for me anymore, but I still want the best bang for my buck. I inherited a 550, but I load for several different calibers. I bought 3 die plates, and set up one for 9mm and another for .223. the third one is my float and just has a powder die in it. I also have two powder measures. One for rifle and one for pistol. If I want to load .45ACP, I can quickly set up the float die plate with .45 dies and the pistol powder measure. I can do the same thing for .308 Winchester. The press comes with both large and small primer posts, and is pretty simple to change. This gives me the most flexibility without sinking a bunch of money into caliber dedicated die plates and powder measures. Good luck whatever you choose!

 

[glenwolde]

I started with a 450, then added another 450. The 450 does not have the removable toolhead so a caliber change also involved swapping out each die one at a time. I used one 450 for small primers and one for large. I also had an RCBS Green Machine set up for .38 Special. But this was at a point in life when I had little time.

I got rid of the RCBS Green Machine. It was very finicky. Fast,but when something went wrong it went very wrong. Plus the primer magazine was right at your breast plate.

I converted one of the 450's to a 550 frame and found I didn't really need two so I sold one 450 and even sold the stripped 450 frame I had leftover from the conversion. I've added nothing else to the conversion. I even still use the manual primer feed from the 450.

It's fast enough. To change from small to large primer takes maybe 5 minutes. Loosen a set screw and replace the primer punch and cup. Unscrew the primer magazine shield and swap feed tubes and replace the shield. That's it.

A caliber change takes a shell plate and a toolhead. Raise the ram , loosen the setscrew, undo the center bolt and remove the shell plate. Replace. Pull two pins and swap the toolhead. You can do a caliber and primer size change in 15 minutes max.

My realistic run-rate is a bit over 300 rounds an hour. On a rainy Sunday morning I'll knock out 1,000 rounds and break for lunch. I only shoot 4,000-5,000 rounds a year so it's all I need.

I can load .380, 9mm Makarov, 9mm Luger, .38/.357, .45 Auto, and .41 Magnum. I'm a couple of toolheads short of being able to do them all on the Dillon. I have the shell plates. I usually use my single stage for .380 and 9mm Makarov because I don't shoot them much.

Really it's about matching your equipment to your needs. If you're not having a problem, don't fix it.

With speed comes complexity, and it has diminishing returns. You get to the point where you're adding more complexity with very little return in speed. From a Lee Loader to a Dillon 1100 they can all produce equally accurate ammo. Only the production speed changes.

 

[Chuck24]

I have different tool heads for each caliber so changing just involves adjusting the powder measure

 

[Mike SC Hunter]

So, how difficult is it to learn to operate a Dillon?



I have a new 550B that has never been out of the box. They were all the rage at the time and it appears they still are the reigning champ of progressives in a reasonable price range. After reading tons of info about using them, which I should have done before buying, it just seemed to be too much trouble for a dyed - in - the wool single stage user to fathom. Now at 73 I don't know I could even operate it if I wanted to...

Iffen you ever try it......You single stage will gather cobwebs.

 

[Baltimoreed11754]

I have 2 550s and 2 Lyman T2s. I also use Dillon 450/550 measures on the T2s. [ .45colt, .455, 45schofield, lots of 45acp, a little 38spcl ]I enjoy using either brand. I also run a Bair Kodiak single stage for my 30 cal rifle reloading. Either move the work to the tool [dillon] or the tool to the work [lyman turret] either way you end up with a complete load.

 

[Sigma40sw]

I too use two 550 presses. One vintage 1988 for LP and one 1994 for SP.
I started with an RCBS Rockchucker. My first progressive press was a Posiness Warren P-200 Metallic. It had removable die heads that would hold 2 calibers. It used std RCBS shell holders, priming was still one at a time.
They used a swinging shell holder to move from die to die. It really took you thru all the single stage steps and you had a completed round in your hand when done. Today's turrent presses allow you to do the same thing. But I digress, this is about Dillon 550's
I do all the things the previous posters have mentioned. I have a great selection of shell plates, Brass Buttons and powder funnels. Just install the combination that works for the caliber you are loading. I only have 2 powder throws, but I have many labeled powder bars already pre-adjusted. I swap in what I need, check the throw and I am good to go.
The 550's are the most versatile of all the Dillon Presses.
The only issues I have had in 36 years of running the is a broken bell crank (part between the handle and the ram), when it cracks you get high primers that cause miss fires. Dillon's warranty has replaced 5 of them for me. This was at the point I was shooting 50-60 thousand rounds a year.

 

[BB57]

The Dillon 550 is the most versatile Dillon press as it can be used for handgun cartridges as well as for rifle rounds up to and including magnum rounds.

As a manually indexed press it can be operated as a single stage press, as a turret press or as a progressive.

It can be used with a Dillon powder measure, with a manually operated measure using the 3/4” adapter or with an off press powder measure.

The Dillon measures are more accurate if you invest in xtra small and extra large power change bars as well as the standard large and small, and then use the smallest charge bar that will accommodate the load. Also adjust the charge bar so that you are always making the final adjustment by moving the bar in so it’s being pushed in by the adjustment screw so it won’t have any slack in the thread.

Changing the primer system for small to large takes 5-10 minutes depending on how often you do it.

I have 9 tool heads with powder measures attached sitting on stands ready to go with the does and powder measures adjusted for my most common loads (.38-55, .308 Win. .45 ACP, 9mm, .380 ACP, .357 Mag, .38 Special and .32 ACP) with one powder measure in reserve to put on whatever tool head with a less used cartridge that I want to reload (.45-70, .30-06, .243 Win, .223 Rem, .22 Hornet, .45 Colt, 7.62 Nagant, and .30 carbine).

I load precision rifle rounds on Whidden floating tool heads and run out on the completed rounds is normally around .001” or less. I correct any that exceed .0015”.

 

[minconrevo]

That makes much sense. Along the same lines are the settings for the measures repeatable or would you be better off having a dedicated measure for each cartridge you load for? I realize this would be another significant expense.

Impractical to own a bunch of pre-set measures. I have dozens of good loads, using dozens of powders, developed over the years.

By whatever shortcut measure one uses, to return a Dillon powder measure to a previous grain drop of a particular powder, there is no substitute for checking the charge dropped with an accurate, calibrated scale*.

My particular "cheat" method to return is to measure the bar opening after removing the previous powder back into its container. I understand fully that a return to that setting is an approximation and that I must throw 10 or more powder charges, out of a full and powder-settled measure, before I weigh the 10. That number, divided by 10, better be my desired powder weight. Next I double confirm in my manual or loading notes that is the desired powder weight.

*There is no sense trying to take the "cheat" by itself as definitive; the risks are too high.

 

[gym cat]

IMO---It's very simple. If you can afford multiple presses go that route.
If not get conversion units.

 

[BB57]

Impractical to own a bunch of pre-set measures. I have dozens of good loads, using dozens of powders, developed over the years.

By whatever shortcut measure one uses, to return a Dillon powder measure to a previous grain drop of a particular powder, there is no substitute for checking the charge dropped with an accurate, calibrated scale*.

My particular "cheat" method to return is to measure the bar opening after removing the previous powder back into its container. I understand fully that a return to that setting is an approximation and that I must throw 10 or more powder charges, out of a full and powder-settled measure, before I weigh the 10. That number, divided by 10, better be my desired powder weight. Next I double confirm in my manual or loading notes that is the desired powder weight.

*There is no sense trying to take the "cheat" by itself as definitive; the risks are too high.

I disagree with you on the value of other conversion kits. I load for a lot of cartridges and within a particular cartridge will usually have several loads. But I still have favorite loads and it’s nice to be able to pick up the conversion kit, put it on the press sans have the seating and crimp dies pre set with the powder measure in the ball park.

With all due respect I don’t think anyone is suggesting using multiple measures or multiple presses as a “cheat”. I have bench rest measures that I don’t trust between loading sessions.

Charge weights also change between powder lots and if you are loading for velocity each load will have to be worked up again with each new powder lot.

The Dillon measures are accurate enough but require the press to be solidly mounted on the bench and like most measures operate best with a fairly constant powder volume, and consistent operation of the press.

I’ve found that if I have a problem on the plate and stop to fix it, with many powders the next couple charges dropped will be slightly heavier than normal as the powder settles a bit in the charge bar as you mess with the press.

That’s an advantage of the 550 press not being auto indexed as it’s easy to just pull the pin on the plate and dump the next two charges back in the hopper before continuing.

After setting up the press, after adjusting the measure, after adding powder to the measure per after a break in reloading, I will drop a half dozen changes and then measure a sample of 10 to ensure the weight is correct.

 

[rosewood]

I disagree with you on the value of other conversion kits. I load for a lot of cartridges and within a particular cartridge will usually have several loads. But I still have favorite loads and it’s nice to be able to pick up the conversion kit, put it on the press sans have the seating and crimp dies pre set with the powder measure in the ball park.

With all due respect I don’t think anyone is suggesting using multiple measures or multiple presses as a “cheat”. I have bench rest measures that I don’t trust between loading sessions.

Charge weights also change between powder lots and if you are loading for velocity each load will have to be worked up again with each new powder lot.

The Dillon measures are accurate enough but require the press to be solidly mounted on the bench and like most measures operate best with a fairly constant powder volume, and consistent operation of the press.

I’ve found that if I have a problem on the plate and stop to fix it, with many powders the next couple charges dropped will be slightly heavier than normal as the powder settles a bit in the charge bar as you mess with the press.

That’s an advantage of the 550 press not being auto indexed as it’s easy to just pull the pin on the plate and dump the next two charges back in the hopper before continuing.

After setting up the press, after adjusting the measure, after adding powder to the measure per after a break in reloading, I will drop a half dozen changes and then measure a sample of 10 to ensure the weight is correct.

^this^
Good explanation.

 

[.38SuperMan]

The only knock against the SDB is it's current cost. Your thought about multiple dedicated SDBs could get pretty expensive, versus 1 or 2 presses that you swap calibers on. I remember back when they came out in the 80s the introductory price was $135, which was cheap even for the time.

Just my opinion

I had 2 SDB’s, one for large and one for small primers, but wound up selling one to my brother. I was shooting IPSC at the time with 38 super, 45 acp and my son shot 38 special. Between us we shot a lot of ammo and 2 presses made sense. I don’t shoot competitively now, 30 years later, but have considered a 550c.

I load 11 handgun calibers and have dies for the SDB for most but some like 38 S&W are odd calibers that Dillon dies aren’t available for or I shoot only occasionally so I load those on a Rock Chucker. I have dies for these calibers and may buy a 550c in the near future.

I just received parts to rebuild my SDB that I’ve run for over 30 years and have no idea how many rounds I’ve loaded on it. I’m sure it’s in the hundreds of thousands. I’ve used it so much the bearings have worn out. Under the Dillon no BS warranty the sent all the parts I needed at no charge. Over the years I had a few springs break and odd little things and parts were sent at no charge each time including 2 upgrades for my powder measures at no charge and my electronic scale was replaced after 30 years.

The only negative about the SDB is the non standard dies but once you have them you have them for life.

I was just thinking what i paid for each of mine and think I paid $140 each but that was early 1990’s dollars.

 

[Jeff423]

Tell me more about this? How much, where can I find it. This has been one of my pet peeves about the Dillon power drop. Guess work to get it where it needs to be.

Thanks,

Rosewood

Micrometer Powder Bar Kit - SKU: T1231

I've used one of these for years. It's very good. I'll never go back to the stock Dillon slide.

 

[noonster]

I like my versitile progresive Dillon- have half a dozen heads for it and can swap out primers relatively quickly. That being said I got a good deal on a couple other progressives over the years and find it real convenient to have one set up in 223/556 permanently and another set up in 45acp. Gives me the best of both worlds, one press for all the oddballs, and another for the bread and butter rounds that I use the most.

 

[afkirby]

Micrometer Powder Bar Kit - SKU: T1231

I've used one of these for years. It's very good. I'll never go back to the stock Dillon slide.

Yep that’s the ticket, I have a simpler version from Armanov that is click adjustable for the small powder bar.

 

[Erocksmash]

I've got a 750 it's honestly the best for a moderate handloader, bought it peak covid spent alot, but do shoot as much as I usto.. long and the short is I've loaded enough ammo to last a lifetime in all my calibers, she's a bit dusty now, I should probably clean it off....

 

[rockquarry]

Impractical to own a bunch of pre-set measures. I have dozens of good loads, using dozens of powders, developed over the years.

By whatever shortcut measure one uses, to return a Dillon powder measure to a previous grain drop of a particular powder, there is no substitute for checking the charge dropped with an accurate, calibrated scale*.

My particular "cheat" method to return is to measure the bar opening after removing the previous powder back into its container. I understand fully that a return to that setting is an approximation and that I must throw 10 or more powder charges, out of a full and powder-settled measure, before I weigh the 10. That number, divided by 10, better be my desired powder weight. Next I double confirm in my manual or loading notes that is the desired powder weight.

*There is no sense trying to take the "cheat" by itself as definitive; the risks are too high.

I'm certainly in agreement with you on always checking measure settings with a balance beam scale. Sometimes, the settings are perfect but most of the time they vary slightly. I've had many measures over many years, but the only ones I have now are four Reddings, the newest of which is more than thirty years old but they all work very well.

 

[Huskerguy]

I probably don't have much to offer to this discussion which is actually pretty good.

I have a Hornady AP and a Dillion SDB. I have a reloading buddy that also has a SDB and a 650 and we both have numerous single stage presses.

You asked about the Dillion specifically. I have nothing in the SDB and it is set up for my 9mm pistol and carbine ammo for steel plates in a league. The best part of the SDB is that it is simple, has few issues and makes consistent ammo. What I don't like is it is hard to see in the case to check powder. I also am not a fan of the proprietary dies although they work fine but the precision of completely smooth cases is not there. Too much coke bottle look.

I am not a fan of my friends 650. It came set up for 45 and I set it up for .223 for him. It was the first time I had ever done and went step by step in the instructions so I don't know how long it would take a seasoned person. It seemed to take me a while. I don't like the primer feed carousel and the shell plate is way to jumpy for me. I probably could cure that given enough time. Friend now has Alzheimers and so the press just sets there unless I am around to set things up and run it but I live 4 hours away.

All that said, I like to have a powder cop on my presses. I also am fascinated with the Mighty Armory Dies and have seen some vids/demos of how well they size and crimp to SAMI specs. They are pricey but with the 550 you can use them.

My overall opinion (which is worth less than a cup of coffee and I don't drink the stuff) is I want a press that is basic in operation, as foolproof as possible, I can have a powder cop on it, I can use any dies I want or can afford. I am not into spending more money that I need to and the speed of the 550 is plenty fast enough for me. I get low on competition ammo and sit down at my SDB and crank our a 1,000 in no time. The 550 is plenty fast enough. Its like buying a Corvette when a Toyota will accomplish the same goal of getting the job done. Obviously the 550 does not work with a powder cop as it only has 4 stations but the plus of that press is the manual drop.

For versatility, the 550 is hard to beat. I see you said you have a turret press already which could handle your large primer needs for the most part.

If you are into spending money and it is not a big deal, then by all means, get the 750 or bigger. I shoot plenty and could not justify it, would rather put more money into firearms. Happy loading