Gunsmith for barrel cut and profile change

[Doug M.]

I loathe full lug barrels. There is not a single thing about them I like. This man has a goal in mind to make the revolver be what he desires, and seems to know what the fiscal impact might be. The collector perspective on this project is completely irrelevant. Get off your high horse and be helpful, or skip the string.

 

[326MOD10]

Might check with Lewis Throne, Throne Arms, in Colorado.

He did some work for me on a couple of 4 inch Model 64s.

 

[Cptbwst]

I had a model 1917 barrel shortened to 4", and John Taylor of Taylor Machine Co. did a great job, but I don't know about removing the underlug:
[email protected]

Alternatively LT Arms does great work, and might take that on:
(720) 727-0400
[email protected]

Thank you!

 

[Cptbwst]

Might check with Lewis Throne, Throne Arms, in Colorado.

He did some work for me on a couple of 4 inch Model 64s.

Nice work done. Thank you.

 

[Lou_NC]

The full underlug is my gripe. Having a 4 inch barrel would just be icing on the cake.

Given this information, you may want to consider two steps for modification here, the first being the removal of the underlug, which is actually a (relatively) simple machine shop project, not true "gunsmithing" per se. Machinists do far more precise work than this metal removal everyday, and if you have any good machine shops in your area you may want to explore having them perform this underlug removal work. That might save you shipping expenses. You can think about barrel length reduction at a gunsmith later, since that will of course involve front sight work.

Lou

 

[Doug M.]

I bet Member BMCM could do both parts.

 

[S&WshooterFIN]

Everyone does what they want with their gun. Several people tried to say, don't cut the 586 no dash revolver:

Now I have the revolver I wanted.

 

[Cptbwst]

I bet Member BMCM could do both parts.

I had to look that up. Interesting. Thanks.

 

[Cptbwst]

Everyone does what they want with their gun. Several people tried to say, don't cut the 586 no dash revolver:

Now I have the revolver I wanted.

Exactly!

 

[usmcsgt]

Thank you.

Just got this from Donna at magnport. Jeff


"Ken has stopped taking in any new orders for complete action jobs due to the backlog of work he has in the shop. He has also cut back on some of the custom gunsmithing services.

He is doing general smooth ups on Smith & Wesson and Ruger revolvers. That is installing springs to lighten trigger pull, check forcing cone, and number chambers. Shop time on the general smooth up is about 10-12 weeks."

Well that's not good he does great revolver work.

 

[Cptbwst]

Just got this from Donna at magnport. Jeff


"Ken has stopped taking in any new orders for complete action jobs due to the backlog of work he has in the shop. He has also cut back on some of the custom gunsmithing services.

He is doing general smooth ups on Smith & Wesson and Ruger revolvers. That is installing springs to lighten trigger pull, check forcing cone, and number chambers. Shop time on the general smooth up is about 10-12 weeks."

Well that's not good he does great revolver work.

Wow! Thank you.

 

[ladder13]

Mark Hartshorne did the work on this 681. Cut to 3", fit an 7 shot cylinder, but I understand he is retired for good now.

 

[Engine49guy]

Im with you that the full underlug fad has run its course and a 617 with a Model 66 barrel profile would be neat considering its never been offered.
(Closest was the 617 Ashland but no ejector rod shroud and very pricey collector gun)
As to your project if you consider that the gunsmithing could cost near $400+ dollars purchasing a new mountain gun starts to make sense, alternately an older Model 18.
Out of curiosity I just called SW customer service to inquire if they had any 617 Mountain gun barrel over runs to install or sell to the public and the girl said a flat no.
Good luck with your project and be sure to post pics.
On a side note,
My friend purchased a 617 where a gunsmith used a Model 66 barrel as a donor then turned a 22 barrel blank to the .357 bore leaving it proud at the rear to fill the gap ( K frame 357 cylinders are longer than non magnum ones so the forcing cone is shorter in the frame) the end result was excellent.
I will see if my friend still jas it and if so post some pics.
Another tidbit,
Iirc a member here "Nedro" or maybe "Steelslayer" has done such conversions with excellent results, if you search his posts from years ago you might find the pictures.

 

[Engine49guy]

My friend just texted me two quick pictures of his converted 617, I believe it is a no dash and has a grip frame thats been round butted, the barrel began life as a Model 66 in .357 and has had the caliber rollstamp removed from the right side and a barrel insert in 22lr.
The gunsmith was Jim Stroh Of Alpha precision in Georgia

About Alpha Precision,Inc., the owner Jim Stroh, and the many fine services offered

My friend also recommended you could try contacting Tyler gun works in Tx as they had done a similar project for him on a 625.
Heres a link

Metal Finishing & Firearm Sales | Tyler Gun Works | US

Get expert metal finishing like color case, bluing & engraving at Tyler Gun Works. Shop new & used firearms with free shipping on most items.

www.tylergunworks.com

 

[Aggie01]

There are a couple of 4" barrels on ebay. I'd start with that. Most of the smiths I have worked with over the years would rather fit/time the barrel than do the machining to make the front sight look right again. Bonus - you save the original barrel.
I took off an underlug with a file once. Actually, more than a couple of files. And a lot of time.

 

[racer19j]

Last time I looked Midway had new 4" barrels in stock. The new ones are a little long so you can fit the cylinder gap as close as you want. I think that may be better than getting the original barrel cut down.

 

[Exchipy]

Why not just do it yourself? Nothing magical about the process. You can perform the task with a good mill file. But, a bench grinder makes the initial work go faster, though it's very easy to over do it, and quickly too (slow and careful is essential). Delicate use of the file after roughly shaping with the grinder, followed by abrasive cloth and steel brushing, completes the project: