I've only reloaded pistol, looking into getting started with rifle (30'06). My brass is Lake City from the CMP. I have a total of around 200 cases to reload. I assume the primer pockets are crimped.

I'm looking for suggestions for a tool to remove the crimp. I know there is an electric Dillon tool that cuts the crimp out. I thought someone (don't know who) has a tool that bends/flattens out the crimp?

I have a total of around 1000 LC cases (not all of it has been shot yet). I will eventually get to those.

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Common sense isn't so common.

Buy the RCBS Primer crimp Swage die. Dillon also makes one a bit different. Far quicker than using a reamer and less chance of damaging the primer pocket.

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Gunsmithing since 1961

If properly adjusted, the RCBS unit works well and isn't all that slow. It never needs re-adjustment. Many complain that it doesn't work properly, and it won't if you don't take the time to set it just right. Not that difficult.

Not sure how involved you plan on getting into reloading or how old you are. If young and plan on reloading for quite a while. Buy once, cry once. Buy the Dillon Super Swage 600 and never look back. I've got and have used the RCBS kit and absolutely hated using it. The Dillon is expensive but I don't believe there is anything easier once set up and you get into a rhythm. I just did over 1000 LC 5.56 cases as part of my match prep of cases and it was effortless.

I think Dillon is the greatest, but they are usually out of my price range. Last year I got into 5.56 and needed a primer pocket swage tool for the 1000 once fired brass I acquired. My Lee kit for 40 bucks met all of my requirements.

In past years I used an RCBS primer pocket reamer and it worked great but was a lot of work. I can't see spending $150 for a simple tool when the Lee product works well.

Another way to look at it...you pay one way or the other. Buy new or once-fired brass (of the same headstamp) that requires no crimp removal or get a tool to do the job on crimped primer pockets.

If it's a one-time project, get the RCBS. If you're going to be using brass with crimped in primer pockets from now on and you handload and shoot a great deal, the Dillon may be the way to go. People talk "expensive" on various handloading items, but if you amortize cost over years and thousands of cases, the real cost is insignificant.

Another vote for the RCBS primer pocket swaging die. As stated, care used in setting up pays dividends. I have swaged countless primer pockets with mine and really like it.

I greatly prefer using the simple hand reamers made by Lyman. Takes about three seconds per case. One quick twist. I cannot recommend swaging. Tried it, do not like, have an RCBS set I do not use. A good job to do while watching TV. Don’t overthink it. It needs to be done only once per case. Ever. Plenty of the hand reamers are listed on eBay.

I just use an ordinary countersink bit, about 10 bucks. I have an RCBS swagger but never use it. Swagging distorts the pocket.

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That's just somebody talkin.

Back a very long time ago, I reamed GI .30 pockets using just a 1/4” bit in a drill press. Not ideal but it worked after I developed the right feel. Then I changed to using the Lyman hand reamers.

I like my Dillon Swager

It's called "swaging". It's impossible to distort the primer pocket using this method. Can you cite your evidence / experience to the contrary?

Been using one for years on .308 and .223 military brass. Always worked great. The RCBS model is the one I have.

I have used all the crimp removal tools out there and almost all of them are lacking in something. The hand operated tools such as the Dillon and RCBS tools are okay, but are a pain to convert from small to large primers and the assorted times you have to re-adjust for different cases. I use an RCBS case prep center for all my trimming, chamfering and primer pocket work. A few years ago I stumbled on a crimp removal product made by Burstfire for crimp removal and it works absolutely great. The Burstfire product includes several "bits" that can be used manually or as in my case on a machine. So now I just tap the primer pocket on the Burstfire bit for about 2 or 3 seconds and big or little primer the job is done forever. Nothing else is faster than the Burstfire bits and the primer pockets are never over done unless you go ape on them. Before you spend big bucks on a swage tool that needs constant adjustment take a look at the Burstfire website and look at their videos for their case prep tools. If used properly these bits should never wear out, but just to be safe I ordered a spare set. Usually when you find something that is almost perfect the manufacturer stops making it so you have to buy some new hot product. Not with these bits and the price is much easier on the wallet. I can't remember the last time I used my highly regarded Dillon Swage tool. It just collects dust now.

Rick H.

I use a 45 degree countersink bit in an electric drill. I have removed the crimp on hundreds of cases this way, eithout issue.

Me too - pocket reamer. More time than money

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SWCA LM#2190 SWHF#414

I gave up on swaging tools tried them all. I rather ream them out with a RCBS crimp remover.

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Still Running Against the Wind

As said above the rcbs unit works fine. Its not difficult to set up or adjust. All I reload is LC brass for my 5.56 guns and its all crimped so yes, I have to handle each piece of brass but you very quivkly het into a rhythm and muscle memory takes over your movements and before you know it youre done. It comes with a large and small pocket tool and works perfectly.

Been using this for a while.

Attached Images

rcbs_swager.jpg (120.1 KB, 32 views)

That's the same kit I use. Been using it for years. Pretty foolproof (as proved by them selling it to ME!)

Thanks for the suggestions - I got the Dillon swager, should be delivered by the end of the week.

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Common sense isn't so common.

I got a 2nd hand RCBS primer pocket swager. Slicker'n snot on a glass doorknob. Smooths out the crimp like magic.

I've got some possibly military 5.56 cases which I assumed had crimped primer pockets. I chucked about a 1/4" drill bit into my drill press (I bevel the case mouths with a countersinking tool) and used it to take the crimps off. I'm going to have to get a pocket uniformer though, because primers still wouldn't even start going into the pockets. I had crushed a few trying before beveling but they still wouldn't go after the bevel.

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"He was kinda funny lookin'"

I agree with this 100%. My RCBS swager sits, unused.

You can remove the cutter from the Lyman hand tool and chuck it in a small, rechargeable drill if you are lazy.

I shoot 45acp and fortunately have a ton once fired military brass that I picked up years ago. All crimped. I found the Dillon is the most user friendly if set up right. Firmly secured and using a spring or rubber band to flip uo crimper arm, it's fast and very consistent which is important to me.
Just my .02's. Jim

My very simple approach to this issue is that I am hesitant to use any tool that removes brass, at any amount. That's just me. The primer pocket is extremely accurate and precise, most of us and our tools are not, especially those that cut. But I have not used all of them so I am making a general statement I cannot prove obviously.

I purchased the Dillon bench top swaging tool many years ago and it has worked flawlessly for me and others I have loaned it to. A friend purchased an enormous amount of .223 brass years ago and during his winters down south he borrowed my tool and swaged more brass than I will ever use. Worked perfectly when later on we loaded this same brass.

Your results may vary. Now there are many tools that can installed on our presses that look to work very well.

After some years shooting X course I feel reaming is the way to go and a case mouth deburring tool does a nice job leaving a slight bevel for re-priming. YMMV

Never have used any of the swaging tools, I’ve used the case mouth tool for the primer pocket. Takes a bit of time but it works great for me.


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I never tried to cut the crimp out, I didn't want to remove any material from the primer pocket. I use a swager to "push" the material back into place. I have never had an issue with swaging distorting the primer pocket.

The amount of brass removed by reaming the primer pocket crimp is insignificantly tiny.

You must be an attorney.

All I knowd there is what I seen with my own eyes.

Not trying to convince anyone that chamfering is better or worse. If you want to spend the money on a dillion or RCBS tool then you should just do that. You'll be a lot happier because you spent the money on a tool that's marketed for that specific task.

Like I said. I have the RCBS tool and used both methods. I like simple inexpensive solutions. If a new guy is trying to cut costs using military brass they don't need a $150 or even a $115 tool.

YMMV

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That's just somebody talkin.

You may be the guy who recommended this to me a few years back. Out of this, reaming and swaging, the countersink was the least trouble and most consistent.

Still a giant, sprawling pain in the backside.

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Just Say No - To Social Media

Probably.

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That's just somebody talkin.

RCBS for 45 years.
When my boy started to learn how to load, I slipped in
a 5.56 case, that was deprimed and sized.
As he tried to put a primer in, "hey Dad, this ain't working".
Out came the RCBS, and another useful lesson.

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Have Fun/Stay Safe

As others have said, many ways to skin this cat, and they all work.

I personally use a Lyman primer pocket reamer to cut the crimp away, THEN I use the Dillon bench mounted swager to burnish things nice and smooth. It's overkill, either method by itself would be enough, that's just me.

I've also manually cut the crimp on a select few individual cases with a fine pen knife. That worked perfectly as well, but I wouldn’t want to do that regularly. A tool will at least be consistent.

That is probably a true statement overall. What it doesn't take into account is:
1. What is a small amount?
2. Was the staking machine set perfectly so as to always move the same amount of brass to secure the primer?
3. Could a weak spot be created in the brass by excessive staking and removing?
4. There is an assumption that the cutting is done perfectly and without any error in set up and execution.
5. Are there room for errors in the cutting process?

That is why, FOR ME, I didn't want to take the chance and just went ahead and moved the stakes instead of removing them. That's the great part of reloading, we have so many great tools and information these days! Could not be a better time to be a reloader.

I'm not an attorney. Your handloading experience may far overshadow mine, but I was curious about the alleged primer pocket distortion when using an RCBS primer pocket swaging tool. If this can happen and you've actually seen it, I'd like to know as would others who use this tool. I won't pursue the matter further.

Think about it. The only brass (if much) that is removed by reaming is the EXTRA used by the primer crimp

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Still Running Against the Wind

I scrap or sell my crimped brass and reload the commercial brass.

I have a lot of .223 range brass that have what I would describe as a crimping ring around the inside edge of the primer pocket. Will a hand tool like a Lyman Hand Reamer actually remove said crimping ring without damaging the pocket???